Technical Alignment San Diego

I will get a picture up later and it will clear the air a bit

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Viva, have you looked at this site? http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/t5-info-page.html. Not quite the same as yours (later model vehicle and linkage style), but a lot of the checks he does in the installation might help your situation.

 

Not exactly what I would do but how about this? A link of chain. Don't know how to post pic with my phone.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/2524718/

 

Great page, pretty much all you need to know about the t5.
Gotta bookmark that.

 

That would give me the angle I need but I am weary of adding onther pivot point

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This has some sweet info added to my bookmarks and reading it over a few more times

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Ok so not the picture I was hoping to put up but this is how it was set before I took it all apart the first time. So this is with the short throwout and the extreme angle on the fork. As of right now the fork is adjusted all the way to the front of those threads no room left and no play at all. The notch that the link attaches to is the only one and the rod is not any longer in that direction. Looking at other peoples setup either more distance on the rod and a larger angle would help.

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Ok, that's basically what I thought. Now, can you take the rear nut loose and get that linkage piece out of the fork, or is it in a bind? I'm wondering much farther the clutch fork needs to move in order to get the clearance you need? We need to know how much clearance you need / how much adjustment you lack to deciide the best path forward. My thinking for the easiest / quickest fixes at this point might be to just simply swap to a shorter pivot bolt (if one's a available, although looking back at the first pics you posted of it, it doesn't look like it could be much shorter. You know, the later style pivot bolts don't have any washer under them, are you sure you need that? I usually Lock***e them in place just to be safe.), or cut and slightly lengthen the rod from the pedal to the threaded rod ( the chain idea would be a good way to at least test this theory, I think Home Depot sells chain by the foot if you don't have any lying around. And who knows, it may work so good you leave it?), or lastly to heat and slightly bend the throw out fork about halfway between the pivot point and where it attaches to this rod? Just make sure you have enough clearance that the bent portion doesn't bottom out on the back of the hole in the bell. I'm sure someone's probably gonna yell and say that forks heat treated, it'll be too weak, etc. But this is a stock S-10 pressure plate, I think it will be just fine. If it was a Centerforce or Hay's racing clutch, I'd be concerned, but these just don't have that much spring pressure. I'm ***uming if you could grind the extra grooves (like the p***. car version has) into your current linkage you already would have. Anybody else in the San Diego area know of or have a Chevy coupe with a manual he could compare his to, before he buys one and finds out it didn't help either? I "think" I saw one in my buddies junkyard in El Centro a while back, but I didn't look to closely at it,......no idea what ****** or linkage it had in it. And it's a pretty long drive to go on a guess! He lives here and most of his business interests are here, so no telling when he'll be out there again. Last time I was out there the guy he had working there wasn't the sharpest stick on the block, we might get "Yeah, it's a Chevy" out of him! I'll be over in his neighborhood Sat, so I'll see if he's around and ask about it.


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I think one inch is all I need if added to the link between pedal and adjustment rod. Tried the no washer on pivot but just was not enough. Also discovered a few things that a professional should not have overlooked. There is no clutch pedal return spring. The only reason the pedal rest at the top is that everything in is a bind against the pressure plate. Also the clutch fork does not have a pivot retainer so the fork only pivots on the stud when pressure is applied to the pedal. So i am going to hunt that stuff down and re***ess the situation.

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I found that retainer at southland clutch as well. mine was broken

 

Wow, that's a little more than I was thinking......Did you happen to look at the angle of the throw out fork to the transmission face with it unloaded to see how it looked? Is it going to be better than it was with the short bearing (I'm ***uming it almost has to be, couldn't get a lot worse). In JT's defense (I don't know him) I seen a lot of cars without the return spring and they work just fine, but not having one will put extra wear on the throw out bearing. It "should" only contact the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is depressed, without the spring, it rest on the pressure plate springs and rotates all the time. Now I definitely think you should try the chain trick, using whichever (decently) sized links get you closest to the one inch longer dimension you need (pretty much anything larger than swingset chain will work, but I'd probably use a minimum of a 1/8 inch diameter link just to be safe). This will allow you to test and make sure the mod to the looped rod is going to work (as well as let you drive the car while your having the other rod extended). Personally, I'd put some serious miles on it (maybe a thousand), before I made the mod to the original rod, just to make sure everything is happy. You could also find a old shifter linkage rod of the correct diameter and cut it to length and then use a torch to heat the end and wrap the loop in it.

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Any updates? Did you get it straightened out?

 

I have all the parts I need the retainer for the fork, a cut to size return spring and I have a single chain link bolted to the link and adds a little over an inch. I just have not had the time to put it all together. My hope is to have it put together after work on Saturday.

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Cool, let us know how it works out.

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On the way to work I could see there is a large gathering of ranflas/bombs at the park under the start of the coronado bridge. Really need to get this thing on the streets summer is coming and I dont wanna miss out

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It's every 4th sat in April. Chicano Park day.
I forgot about it, again. Doh.

 

Need to get a shorter clutch pedal return spring it with everything adjusted it does not hold the throwout all the way off. Overall this worked out time for some more miles to see how its going to hold up. Side note my break pedal is now super stiff and only depress about two inches not sure what I would have done in this whole process that would mess with the breaks.

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First thing that comes to mind is (if you have power brakes), check to make sure you didn't knock the vacuum line loose at either end.


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It is all manual brakes. Single pot master cylinder drums all around.

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Hmmm....then nothing you have done "should" have affected the brakes, but make sure the clutch and brake pedal linkages aren't interfering with each other.

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I swapped out the pedal return springs on both pedals for some shorter cut to size springs from autozone and everything is running and stopping smooth pedals feel fine .

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Thanks to everyone who took the time to trouble shoot this mess with me and fight the uphill battle of educating a newbie. I have discovered a few other issues along the way and I am glad I did because I think I will be able to prevent some furture catastrophic failures. I have learned a ton from everyone and will start a new thread when its time to tackle the next big step or maybe just start a build thread. I may message one or two of the San Diego locals whens its time to do some real cruzing.

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Good News! Where's you clutch disengagement point at in the pedal travel now? It's pretty much a matter of personal preference as long as your getting full engagement and disengagement.

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Its fully disengaging at about 3/4s of the way down and suprisingly easy to depress and hold down. Before the last one failed it was like doing a leg press to get the pedal to the floor.

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Great job and good you stuck with it to the end.

 

One thing that I didn't see mentioned here was the face of the TO bearing... the short bearing that was in there was a "flat faced " bearing that is normal for a B&B or 3-finger clutch , you could see where the sharp edge had cut into the diaphram fingers... the long bearing used now has the diaphram correct round face.... just a little more info... also , FYI , there is an intermediate length bearing for some GM applications...
dave

 

Glad you got it squared away, kinda ****s that a shop is the one that did the work you had to re-do though.
But like you said, you probably know your way around it pretty good now. Nice job.