Anyone running with a hydraulic throughout bearing? Wouldn't it work better than a hydraulic slave cylinder or mechanical clutch linkage? Or am I missing something with it's use? I haven't seen it used much.
I use them whenever I can, really cleans up the clutter of clutch linkage in tight spots & last way longer than you'd think. Here's one on a Saginaw 4 speed with Borg warner R10 overdrive I put on my dads 53 behind a 235. The yellow .150 is clearance I've set between pressure plate contact area n face of bearing. I always use RAM units, served me well for years of stock car racing. Flux not very traditional as a big hunk of cast iron but smooth as silk operation.
I just finished an install on my 59A to T5. works great, BUT, dont go cheap on the TOB. I tried a $99 unit and after much headache, ended up using a Tilton. Glad I did, it works smooooth and has a light pedal feel.
I used one on my fathers 29 A roadster on 32 rails. Its a 63- 5 bolt 289 with a 3 speed behind it. Foot room was an premium with the cowl steering set up ,so mechanical pedals and linkage was a no go. Were running a McCloud with the stock pressure plate and it works great. Like others have already said, spend the money on a good unit and it will serve you well.
Thanks. Just seemed so much easier than the linkage I was trying to make work. So it sounds like I should stay away from Speedways system $150. And look for something else?
We have used the speedway ones on several project and they work fine one thing is they are an4 fittings so just make sure you get the right fittings to make it work. Also make sure the bleeder is on top when installed in the car sounds like a basic tip but sometimes is forgotten.
Used the speedway with my 70s350 block and an NV 3500 from an S10 pick up. It has been smooth and trouble free so far. On the road one year. Install was straight foward
I've got a Brookville 30/31 "A" roadster on a B.v. supplied '32 frame repro pinched, bobbed, etc. to fit, sbc with McLoud safety bell hsg., flywheel,11" p.plate& disc and a Ford/Tremec 4 spd Toploader. 'Bout went crazy trying to get a Wilwood master cyl.& slave cyl pulling on a chev fork using Wilwood's rec. cyl. sizes, and at one time or another all 3 length Chev TO brgs. pushing on that MC diaphragm p.plate's fingers. Couldn't get enough travel to fully and freely release, combined with required pedal pressure bordering on brute force. Changed to a MCLoud direct hyd. TObrg. with carefully measured dimensions and their comprehensive istructions, secured lines, set pedal stop, and working grear ever since. If you can't easily rig a proper mechanical linkage, which IMHO, is the best, then don't try to go the cheap cross breed hyd/mech. Go full hydraulic from a trusted brand. The '40 Ford coupe I recently bought has a full hyd, that IIRC, the prev. owner/builder stated was from American Drivetrain. It also works quite well w/SBF and T5.
Yup, as others have said, go with the best one you can afford. The cheaper ones WILL leak and then you get to take it all back apart...
i have used the mcloud for years behind my hemi. the mcloud has different spacers for correct installation. the bearing needs to be placed in the right spot. go on their web site for the info. i have also tried different bore size master cylinders. the larger the bore the more pedal feel and movement of the bearing. i think I'm up to 7/8 bore. as stated before on the bleeder use a braided hose just run it outside were the fork was. it will save you a lot of grief when you need to bleed it. remember to have the bleeder on top. having the correct spacing on the bearing is vital. if the bearing is spaced forward off the bearing retainer to get the proper release on the clutch the hoses will hit the fingers rubbing a hole in them. ask me how i know. follow the directions and get the right cone that goes inside the hydraulic unit. that way the housing is up to the bearing retainer and the longer cone moves the bearing up to the fingers on the pressure plate. zip ties help keep the hoses in place. I'm more than happy with mine both on the track and on the street.
What is a throughout bearing ? I know what a throwout bearing is I threw out the bearing, now what the hell do I do ?
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