I J-B welded a reamer into a socket to ream the throttle shafts on a WCFB I am rebuilding. (It seemed to be the best way to go at the time.) It worked out pretty well and I am re-***embling the carb, but the tool I made is not in exact alignment. It would have been perfect if I had it accurately aligned, so I'd like to take it apart and put it back together a little more carefully. Anybody know the best way to get it apart? (If there is any.)
Did you use too much? That would have been better but it's good that it sorta worked. If I suggest a big hammer will you think I'm a smart ***?
If you can't knock it back out from the other side with a punch I'd burn it. Put the reamer in water if you're afraid of temper loss.
Try soaking it in Methylene Chloride if you can find any?? It is about the strongest solvent there is, imho.. pdq67
If J-B is a 2 part epoxy, it will soften up in the oven at anything over 100Celcius. It might stink the place out though, so maybe a heat gun would work.
IIRC, JBWeld doesn't stand up to anti-freeze very well. I don't know how long it would take, but I'd try soaking it in anti-freeze for a couple of days, or a week. Would only loose some time iffen it didn't work. Marcus...
Lots of heat but don't use your Honey's kitchen oven. Go outside and use your barbeque grill. Ask me. I'll tell you why.
Really? I've done fuel tank repairs that have lasted years. I'd knock it out with a pin punch from the other side then drill the remaining JB out (enough so you can reset the reamer)
Heat will do it. Small propane tank is enough. It will catch fire and give off a lot of black smoke but you will be able to extract the reamer. As far as the anti freeze theory, I repaired a cracked plastic radiator top tank with J-B Weld on one of my modern cars about 6 years ago and it is still going strong.
I will if no one else will but from me that is a compliment. Tubman, What I would do is put the socket in a vice and take a hammer and punch and drive the reamer back out of the socket, I think that a couple of hard raps should break the ****** loose. You may not save the socket or maybe you can get in with a dremmel and clean it out enough to use it again. That is the biggest loss you should experience though is the loss of the socket. I probably have a duplicate if you don't and it couldn't cost much for me to mail you one.
heat is the only way once its cured if the stuff was mixed without enough part b it will stay soft , used a propane torch on the socket and wrap a wet rag around the reamer ( even though it its only going to cut soft metal on the carb base ) it keep its temper . just try to get the socket loose and then mechanically remove it from the reamers shaft , on making plugs /tooling like this we spray the inside of the holder ( socket ) with silicone or a layer of light oil so it will not bond to the part but makes a perfect mould
Hey, ww46; You're probably right. In some past life, playing around w/hho & Joe Cell stuff, I was going to use JBWeld as a seal, instead of Sikaflex. Called JB & they told me no decent (med->long term) exposure to antifreeze. So I never tried it that way. I realize it's a two-part epoxy w/metal dust filler. WTF do I know??? . Glad it's worked out for you. Marcus...
LOL We used some on the head face for a pair of 440 heads back in the mid '90s, the face was pitted we took a ball mill to the deeper pits to get us some clean metal, cleaned the hell out of it then smeared the JB weld and let it set up for 24 hours. faced the heads and they are still running to this day in an OT Charger. granted they should have no Antifreeze exposure as long as the car doesn't blow a head gasket and it is held firmly in place. It was a stop gap measure to get the car on the road and as always anything temporary is permanent.
Heat sounds like it might be the answer. If the J-B Weld will just start to soften, I only need it to move it just a little to get it straight. Will it harden again once the heat is removed? If so, that'll be perfect. I have a heat gun (and a torch in reserve). I'll let you know what happens. I got the reamer from "Carb Junkys" along with the bushings. They tell you to chuck the piloted reamer (the end with the flutes) into a 1/2" drill. I didn't think this was a good idea, so I found that a 10mm socket would fit over the reamer fluted end and not spin, though it did wobble a bit. If I had to do it again, I would use "Liquid Rubber" or something flexible instead of J-B Weld. (It probably would have worked fine without anything extra, now that I think about it.) If I can heat it up and move it and it hardens back up, I'll be OK. As an addendum, the bushings worked great, although they need to be reamed on the inside after installation to get a perfect fit. I would recommend them.
Heat is probably the answer but it's got to get pretty hot. I'm sure it will ruin it once you get it hot enough to move it. I've used it for years to reshape intake ports in off topic motors without many problems at all, running on both gasoline and Methanol.
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