Hot Rods Cheap and quick paint ideas needed

If you want flat black and you are going to use a spray gun. All the guys in my area get theirs at the local John Deere store. The parts guy sells more of it to hot rodders then anyone else. And it is paint not primer. If you want to use spray bombs check out your local Grangers. I forget what brand it is, but they sell some that spray in a nice fan pattern that is adjustable from N&S to E&W. As far as Maaco, the guys that own the one in our area are car guys. They will paint almost anything for anyone. Whole car, parts, boats, etc. Think they even painted a restored Coke machine once.

 

I have been building and custom painting for over 40 years and have done hundreds of show quality award winning paint jobs. with that said any shop doing restoration or custom work is going to be in the 10 to 15,000.00 dollar range because their name is on it!! So we are not willing to do the so called driver paint job. Please either check around your local car community {someone always knows somebody who has a work shop that and the ability to give your car a quality job at a decent price} or go the maaco route . The ones in this area have different price ranges and naturally you get what you pay for. but if you think spray cans or god forbid paint rollers is the way to go then I wonder why you valued the car enough to keep it this long!!!!! Larry

 

If you want to do a brush job, get Flood Floetrol to add to the paint, it is a paint additive to eliminate brush marks.

 

I'm hoping this relatively new technology for putting color on a vehicle will not be considered taboo here. If it is I apologize in advance, and please remove this post.

Look up Plasti Dip Pro Car kits. Complete DIY kits for covering a car in a colored plastic coating, including prep, the coating, the sprayer, and even stirring sticks for around $400. The beauty for the DIYer is that if you don't like it you can peal it off and try again. It's what I'll be using on my T modified project.

 

Plasti Dip web site says their finish can last for up to a year.

 

From what I have seen with Plasti Dip, I would not consider using that. I would brush it before I would use it.

 

Do it yourself. If you don't know how find someone that'll give you a quick lesson. Can't screw it up too bad! That's why they make 1000 grit wet or dry paper!

 

Redlinetoys and I are on the same page except I used Rustoleum Hammerite paint and blew it on with a cheapie spray gun in my driveway.

 

I'd second using either John Deer satin/flat black or International Harvester satin/flat black. I've had experience with the IH spray cans and they spray well and the paint holds up. The tractor dealer's by the gallon price is friendly to even the most meager budget too.

 

From the Plasti Dip DYC FAQ:

- How long does Plasti Dip® last? If properly applied, Plasti Dip® could last as long as 3 years without having to be retouched. It is very durable and will not lose it's bond. The spray distance when applying as well as the amount of coats applied will heavily determine the longevity of the product. After 3 years, or during the three years if desired, a new refresher coat can be easily applied.​

Seeing 3 dipped cars in person, one 2 years after being dipped, is what convinced me. Would I use it on a high end car? Probably not. But for DIY applied on a driver, absolutely. I'll try to remember to report back with how it works on my modified.

 

I know that the John Deere paint is a top choice a**** the RR guys that actually paint their cars and want them to last. It seems it's very durable, stands up to UV better than any rattle can or primer/sealer job, and is easy to apply on short money with basic equipment.

HRM did an article in 2013 on painting at home: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-1304-how-to-paint-your-car-in-a-weekend/

They did another one back in 2001 here: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/24820/

And here's one from Car Craft: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/ccrp-0604-paint-your-car-at-home/

They didn't do it outside. In each instance they put plastic sheeting up in a garage bay and did it there. I was thinking I'd do this on my T when i get to that stage, at least for Primer. I was thinking about putting a fan in a window with a household air filter on it to provide ventilation.

 

Cheap spray gun and some single stage. Can pick up a gallon of single stage for about 150 or less depending on color (with hardener)
OR, as many have said, rust-o-leum on a foam roller. If you do a couple coats you can even cut and buff it smooth. A friend did a couple jobs with a roller, no buff. From across the street they look pretty good. Up close you can see the texture.

 

Plasti Dip is what I would call a bandaid job and it also doesn't look good to me. I know some people do like that look, just not me. I would rather invest my efforts and dollars in something that will last much longer and look better, if taken care of.

 

I can't believe I'm posting this but...:

http://www.bombingscience.com/shop-tips.htm

Taggers have a vast supply of paints and spray caps, some as wide as 10-12". This is but 1 of several suppliers online and might give you what you want. If anyone else mentioned graffiti supplies, well ok. I didn't read every reply. If rattle can is your only out to quell neighbor issues it might be an answer.

 

I don't like the rustoleum route anymore, because if you change your mind, and want better, you will have to strip it. However, that said, I painted a demolition derby car one night, with a brush, and 3 quarts of rustoleum, thinned with mineral spirits paint thinner. No prep work. When I came out the next morning, the paint had laid flat, no visible brush strokes anywhere. It was actually, very nice.

 

If your looking to do it on the cheap with good results. Go to your local paint supply shop and buy two quarts of raven black acrylic enamel (dupont centari acrylic enamel) , some hardener, and reducer. Go to your local home depot paint section and find aerosol can kits with screw on gl*** jars. Once you have prepped the body spray two medium coats and you will be amazed at the results. I recommend spraying a panel at a time so you don't spray it dry. This will achieve a better result than rattle cans.

 

If you're gonna consider Plasti-Dip, you may as well consider a vinyl wrap instead. Or maybe a deeply orange-peeled Hot Rod Flatz? These are all ways to camouflage body defects and make just about anything look decent from 30 feet away.

What kills me is when I see a relatively new $100K+ car in charcoal flat black, including wheels, trim, and badging. Porsche Cayennes, new Cadillacs, Lamborghinis, you name it. I mean it flippin' kills me! What are they thinking?

 

The John Deer Blitz Black is actually paint ( not primer) and can be cut and buffed. It will not give you a "show quality" paint job when buffed but I have seen it done and it looks just like an old black car that has been preserved. I like it real well myself but I like old paint.

 

I keep a gun loaded with lacquer primer hanging on the wall. I just wipe it down with thinner and shoot a fresh coat on when I'm feeling fashionable (which ain't often). Faster than washing and I'll have plenty on there when I start block sanding.

 

You need to send me a quart and that gun so I can paint my bike.

 

Sounds like you're gonna own it til you're gone.
Tractor enamel will work fine, use a hardener, use a respirator, paint in the middle of the night in the garage so the neighbors don't notice.

Rattle can primer over the rusted spots concerns me. Suggest wire wheeling it all down again and using evaporust or similar acid based product to kill the rust.

If you want black, plan on some kind of high build primer, UPOL makes a pretty good one. Block and block some more

If you're set on rattle canning it, use engine enamel, it's pretty tough.

 

I'm not sure what look you are referring to, but if you mean the flat/matt look, they have glossifiers to put as much gloss on as you like...plus options like pearl, chameleon, and metal flake. For mine, I'm planning on a light green pearl with somewhat of a satin look...just enough gloss that it isn't flat looking.

LOL...the car with the 2 year old dip was a wide body V12 Koenig BMW 850...in flat charcoal. I almost bought it because I knew the dip could be pealed off.

I'm not looking to hide defects. I'm looking for something that I can do myself, outside, with very little prior painting experience. It's been 35+ years since I've painted a car, and that was with Imron and an antique gun and compressor...then spent over a week wet sanding and buffing to get it to look decent.

With the kit you get virtually everything to do the job beginning to end...it's trial and error friendly...and the only finish work is a couple of wipe downs with pump bottle protective spray. To me the biggest plus for a DIYer is if you don't like the results, peal off the bad panel, and shoot it again. To each their own, but to me based on the cost and user friendliness, I've not found anything I'd rather try.

Then there is the added benefit of it being "wife friendly"...she's already making a list of stuff she wants dipped...LOL

 

Cheap quick paint, tractor supply enamel only $50 bucks with the hardener.

 

i could see about half way through spraying that way, getting light headed and loosing the timing on the, inhale, lips to hose, blow, lips away from hose and ****ing in paint.
clever tho.

 

This is a old thread. However here on the Hamb there is a thread on Painting in your driveway at home. Every imaginable way to paint is covered including vacuum cleaner sprayers!

 

Saw a ad for the local Macco this morning, $299 but for that price don't expect too much. HRP

 

If you look on Craigs list in larger metro area's, there's usually someone renting out their paint booth for around $100 a day. Your still going to have to primer and fill your body to get it ready at home.

 

I wouldn't think of using a spray can or roller. Bad Paint is worse then no paint.

Gary