Hi all, I recently got some fresh gear added to the kc truck that I posted some building stuff on, And that is an in juice survivor four door sedan. Now inspecting the purchase, i noticed that the tachometer is noted in 'Kilos' It goes to a 180 so i don't think its noted in miles.. Can't seem to find anything on the web, seller says it was an original Belgian car, its a lefthand drive, in barnfind state.. I'll post some pics of the dash and car as soon as I can. Cheers from bel
ok here's some pic of the car, and dashboard. so it's marked in 'Kilos' as you can see, and my question
so the plan is, since I already had a KC, to get it registered in belgium. this should be more easy since it hasn't been chopped, there's still the original engine inside and all of the rest is pretty much the way it left the factory. chances to find something like this in belgium were absolutely nill.. but the car found me! now there's all these little details that I find, that make me wonder how this car was ever here.. And offcourse I hope the cab I was working on from the pick up, would fit this chassis, to have both rolling when desired.. cheers
ok, but where was it built? in the states then obviously? and just how many cars had this dash then? I was quite sure none of these cars were ever imported in belgium when I got my kc in, and now all of the sudden there's this?!
Here's a 180kph 46 Olds speedo I came across in my travels. OEM is 110mph. They are out there however I can't establish which country it came from, Europe immediately sprang to mind. Also that is great looking barn find car, those instruments are MINT. A friend of mine just sold his 34 Dodge. It was fitted with XJ6 Jag F&R suspension and a pleasure to drive and ride in. What are you plans for the car?
It's 90% complete and totally original, so it would be unwise modifying it i guess, the paint, or what's left of it, is only original once, so I guess I'll keep that too. Just hope to get it rolling as soon as possible!
I can't tell you exactly where your car was built, but on my 33 Dodge coupe (build thread here on HAMB) the firewall was set up to mount a steering column on either the left or right side indicating that column could be switched depending on where it was being shipped to. Look at your firewall where the toeboard meets it. If it has a cut out with a plate cover on the opposite side from your column it would indicate it was manufactured in the U.S., furnished with a right hand drive and shipped to Europe. Also, the gauges appear to be very similar to the ones in my 33, just a little different placement. Instead of quad beside speedo that you have my 33 has the speedo in the middle with two gauges on each side but, again, the actual gauges look identical
I've been busy in the meanwile So it's a lefthand drive, but the lock on the door is on the righthand side. There is indeed a lid where the steering can be put on the right side. All chrome has been painted black during the war. To avoid being seen from the sky by planes. this has pretty much conserved the chrome. Still looking for a good overhaul description of the L-head DR engine. And some specifications on torques and clearences etc. I'm a happy rodding man, scratching every night, the places that could use a good rubbing the dash in kilo's
I like speedometers marked out in kilos- contact a speedo shop to convert it to read in mph and BAM- instant 180MPH speedo.-rick
Most 1930's US cars and Mopars certainly had the door lock on the passenger side so that when you stopped, you slid across the front seat and exited from the passenger side away from passing traffic and locked the door with the key from the curbside........both my 41 Plymouth Coupe and 40 Dodge Sedan have this feature, both RHD with the lock on the US drivers door, opposite sides to a LHD car.............andyd
'exit gracefully' hahhah, we thought it was to 'hang in there' during wild cornering engine works for the moment: I've got three exhaustvalves that are more than just stuck, all the rest came back to life. Any tricks to move them? I screwed the adjusting bolt to maximum clearance, but I dare not to put anything between the valvestem and the bolt, perhaps doing the opposite and using no clearance but have the bolt pushing the valve would work? tension is on the cam in that case.. all together the block has a nice 'sweaty' overall look