Mating fiberglass to metal? Hows it done to not look like shi...

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Make one out of steel,and weld it on.No cracks,no problems.

 

feather it out far enought and it will look fine

 

Tell ya what I thinks it needs. I think it needs the same color rims on the front and back. Sorry, just a pet peeve of mine

 

A buddy of mine used to manufacture/install his own convertible Z-car kit, and he knows some shit about bonding fiberglass to steel. I'll talk to him tomorrow and find out what kind of killer adhesive he used before he slapped the filler on.

Dave

 

Tingler, it's not to hard, I did it the fast way, lots of pop-rivets and a little mud and two hours later...a scoop. Cut the inards out and added a dual snorkle Caddy air filter lid to poke through the hole and wala. I will take a better pic tomarow in the light for ya.

 

O yeah mine was for a Fairlane hood as well, you know had the same shape flange as the hood so not a lot of stress. And get the largest one they offer, a small one will look worse than you think. I also put mirror bond on mine to glue it down then imediatly rivet it, sand the high spots off the rivets and mud er in. Still needs a couple hours worth of refinement, but no cracks yet.

 

I bonded flares to a racecar once.
Roughed up the back of the 'glass, and the outside of the steel.
Cant remeber what I used to bond it with, I think it was a lot like resin...
Stuck the fender flares on with selftappers, and let it cure.
Then I took the self tappers out, so they wouldnt show through the paint later ( thats also the reason I didn't use rivets )
After that came the bodywork.
Lasted a couple of seasons of racing with out a crack or anything like that.
Then I cut them off when I went for wider wheels and wider flairs ( which were bolt on...)

I'd like to find out what that bonding stuff was, or whats available for that now.
I might have to do the same on an other car soon...

 

I'd use a panel adhesive. something like this:

http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=88

stuff holds on like you wouldnt believe. glue it down, let it set and do the body work. make sure you scuff both surfaces good to give it a good tooth.

I think most napa's with the paint shops in them carry it(the one I go to does at least)

 

Got the F-lane in Sept. Remember you said I should alter the wheel base! The scoop i got at the swap fer 20 bucks! MIRROR BOND. That stuff holds 200 lb. mirrors to walls. My scoop the flange is formed to fit the hood, it was not a flat flange. It was specific to 63/4 Fairlanes. AutoKrafters brand maybe. Will get some day time pics. I was running slots up front and steelies in the back for a while but tires were bad so I now have steelies on all for with HOTRODRUBBERS (Cody Adams) slicks out back.

 

O no not the CRS!

 

if that were me,which it's not, i'd mount the scoop on the breather top like a shaker hood, cut a hole in the hood & fugettabout it...mel

 

You could make it from the original metal...no welding, no fiberglass. Take an old leather purse full of sand and set it on the hood, or the hood on it upside down. Hit with a ballpeen hammer to stretch a bulge, Use a hammer and dolly to smooth, then repeat as many times as it takes to get the shape you want. I'll coach you if you decide to do it this way. Or, I have a DVD available showing how to do this kind of metalworking:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980138836765

Look at the pictures on the bottom of the page for a stretched bulge very similar (but smaller) to what you are doing.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

 

I had a good friend putting together those 280z/ferrarri kits..they used something called corvette glue. Not sure thats the trade name..but it was made for bonding corvette panels. Glue in place with screws to hold pressure, then remove screws and feather whole panel.

 

HAHAHA.. Thats funny LOL I about spit my coffee all over the screen!!!

Jason, the scoop would look great..I'm not sure about the size sounds aliitle big? I'm no fiber glass man but what about J.B. weld? ???I might be way off??? I don't know? Your flange idea sounds good if I read it right..I really don't think it will crack if I remember right your fairlane didn't ride that rought....

Anyway I like the wheels...LOL look at his thumb nail pic. I think I see BILLET...LOL...I've got clean up the coffee KNOW!Later....

Say hi to the family....

 

Tingler- Ill share the only time I ever done this job with you.
I was working on a PRO STREET 40 Pontiac for a friend back several years ago.....It had the folding "wing" style hood like a 40 chevy.
OI welded the entire front clip into one peice, as a tilt front.
I thought that was an accomplishment in itself-when the owner sprang the scoop on me!
It was one of the tall AERO style race car jobs...Damn-I was worried.
I told him I'd install it but- DID - guarantee it would crack .....
I cut the scoop down about 5" shorter in height,and marked the hole in the hood top.
What I did different on this one was to cut the hole to allow the scoop to actually slip thru about 1/8" below metal....
I then bonded it withstranded glass such as "Tiger hair" or "Bondo glass" is made....
Then I bonded it on the bottom side where it stuck THROUGH the hood as well.
Then I feathered it out to hide the amount it stuck thru on bottom.
It has stayed well and never cracked- It has a 400plus"Donovan engine with 671 supercharger and 4 webers....so the heat is close to it.
I think support to keep hood from shking is important.
Also I believ you would have a longer lasting job using the glass scoop instead of the handmade metal one suggested above.
The reasoning there is that thje metal will hold and draw the most heat from the engine.
ALSO- do NOT use pop rivets or screws at all!

The body filler used at the splice of the hood and metal scoop will not stand as much heat.
BUT if the fiberglass is used there- it will do a better job of staying.

 

Yo, Tingleberry...PM me your addy...I just ran across an old magazine article the other day...all about "Bonding a fiberglass scoop onto a steel heed the RIGHT way"...it's useless to me, so I'll MAIL it to ya!

 

at your body shop supply house get 3M #3115 adhesive and glue it on , we have put an entire panoz roadster together with it and put a gt5 glass nose on a pantera with it (both road racers that get beat to shit and no cracks at all... sets up in 4 hours , slight feather and some mud and your in .......

 

I picked up a parts car with a 70's gasser type scoop, and the guy had cut the hood skin just inside where the flange on the scoop was. He then inserted the scoop flange under the hood skin, sandwiching it between the hood skin and the hood bracing. Not sure if this would work for your scoop, or if it's even a good idea, but it worked pretty good on that car.

Whatever you do, make sure you mount it in the correct orientation. There's a purple late model mustang around here with one of those scoops mounted backwards....looks like poo on a couple of levels.

 

The funny thing is I like the paint...

 

I only wish the pic was mine, it's at the shop my buddy works at...I think it's the mailmans, I need to work for the post office I guess?

 

I think Choprods came closest. The shop I work at does alot of work on 'glass Cobra kit cars, so I have a lot of experience with this. No matter how you do it there is a good chance it will crack, and the all glass hood is the best way to do it, but since you've already made your mind up on that, here's what I suggest. Stop by your local auto paint store and see what kind of adhesives they have, or could reccommend. What we usually use is 3M marine repair filler, it's really strong, and is water proof. It's like a kitty hair, just make sure both surfaces are scuffed well, like 24 grit. You'll probably have to use screws or klecos to hold the scoop in place while bonding, but whatever you use, remove them, then feather out the holes and fill them with the marine filler also. After that, feather out the edges of the scoop as far as you can, transition the edges with more marine filler, then a skim coat of body filler, and you should be good. The most important part to a seamless repair is feathering out the holes, and sharp edges. Anything like that left under your bodywork will eventually show back later. Hope this helps, and like I said I have a lot of experience with this kind of thing, so if you have any more questions feel free to sendme a PM.

 

Hey, I can through my 2 cents in here if you like. Not an expert but have done quite a few of what your talkin about. First thing you have to know is that metal and plastic (fiberglass is actually a trade name) have different expansion and contraction rates so that said you must realize anything you do will eventually show through and hopefully it will be minimized. There are excellent epoxys out there: norton, 3m,fusor,etc, that will do what you want. Don't skimp on this part. Clean and rough up all mating surfaces with at least 36 grit. bond and clamp . Now you want to rough up the surface of the two well out of the joint (4-6 in.) Now lay some fiberglass mat with resin on this area ,recommend the smc stuff here not traditional resin. Follow basic glassing procedures and you will be good to go. Just don't freak when you start seeing ghost images some day of the joint, if you did everything properly it will last a long time.
Good Luck Man

 

'Glas is going to last longer than steel ?
So how the Fuck did the stock hood last this long ?




Just when you think you have heard everything.......

 

Here's the pics Tingler.....

 

Whooops..

 

3M panel bond. Look it up, this stuff holds shit together like ive never seen before. Some body shops I know swear by it, and use on everything from boxsides, roofs, pretty much anything thats not structural.

 

Some said panel bonding adhesive...they are correct. Actual 3M # is 8115. You'll need a suitable gun to apply it nice. Theirs is over 2 Benjamins to buy. You can mix it on a board as well if you're not too messy at that type of thing. The rest about roughing it up is also correct so I won't repeat. If it were mine Id either do like you said with the flange tool or come up from inside. Less finish filler to have to dick around with (I hate bondo). Starting your 1st fill with 'glass of some kind, even Duraglass, is a great idea for endurance. You can add some 'glass resin to Duraglass and make it nice and smooth. But do it on a day you're committed to finishing that part of the job. Overnight Duraglass type stuff will kill you trying to shape it nice. Get's harder than Chinese arithmatic. The rest you seem to know what to do. Hope it comes out for ya.

Time savers...

Rough EVERYTHING before even the 1st step.

Prep the scoop for finish prime before you install it (easier on a table than in the center of the hood).

Make all the needed repairs to the hood before the scoop goes in. No chance of damage from flippin it around workin on it.

A little heat speeds cure times with out sacrificing performance as long as it's not over-done.

Can't wait to see it primed and lettered. It's lookin kool.

 

Look UNK -READ- the post,I said that the -JOINT- where the plastic will be on the all metal HOOD AND SCOOP will not stand the amount heat as well as the fiberglass will on the other one.

THAT is because body filler is not able to withstand as much heat as Fiberglass will. ANY FOOL would know metal itself will stand the heat- are You suggesting that the hand hammered scoop you suggested will not have any filler at the connecting area/joint?
and since we are on the subject of lasting why is that they make most large truck front clips from fiberglass? BECAUSE? -it stands vibration better......
BTW-THE STOCK HOOD LASTED BECAUSE IT DONT HAVE A HOLE CUT IN IT UNK....
I myself am waiting for you to post a pic or two of YOUR expert body work here on the hamb......

 

Spend the bucks on a 'glass hood - a good one. You'll save a LOT of time, & the car will be lighter & therefore get better mileage & be faster. Do a power-to-weight ratio & see how much difference the 'glass hood makes; you'll be surprised.
If you *really* want to do it the hard way (& still have a heavy-ass steel hood), You'll need to use the correct panel adhesive as others have said. Grind everything that adhesive & bondo touches with 24 grit. Screw down but remove the screws before finishing with a good quality bondo. No kitty hair or resin bullshit for bonding or finishing. Never leave any screws or rivets in.
Just remember you're working with materials that have vastly different expansion rates, & the hood is the hottest place for that to be a problem.
Oh: & you may be able to have them ship it via Greyhound for about $60, but you both have to take a trip to the nearest depot.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I don't take shit; I don't give a shit. I'm not in the shit business.