sandblasting and clear coat?

I was gonna get some steel parts sandblasted and want to retain that look but dont want any rust...
I have heard there can be problem with clear coat yellowing. Is there any way i can maintain the look over time with out rust?
Anyone have any good or bad experiences clearing sandblasted parts?

 

Urethane clears really don't yellow.....The old lacquers had the market on that

 

I have heard of but never seen CLEAR Etching primer... BUT if you dont want to paint it Gibbs Brand will keep it looking new for a long time....I have heard.

 

How often do you need to coat with gibbs. its not an idea im opposed to.

 

HofK had/has? a product that allowed you to spray clears/kandys directly over bare metal. Didn't last long in sunlight though, what ever the stuff was would break down under uv light. Dont know if it could take engine heat, etc either.

 

I sandblasted the hood hinges on my (ahem) 68 camaro, and cleared them with urethane clear (nason 497) and it has held up fine for the past year.

 

I see yellow urethanes all the time.
Most of them are yellow before they even dry.
Never seen a perfectly clear coating of any sort, yet.
Didn't know anybody even fooled with lacquer on cars etc, in the last 30 years.

 

I dont know what to use but i sugest doing your home work cos i stupidly thought that regular "off the shelf hardwear brand clear aresol spray"(phew thats a mouthfull) would work and it didnt it went yellow in about a month (Dam Australian Sun) and now its letting water in hence rust is happening so now instead of the cool naked look i was going for i now have the rusty old bomb look i was trying to avoid.

 

I few weeks back I asked Troy Trepanier how he keeps all his cars from rusting while working on them. Some of the cars have been in bare metal well over a year.
He told me he uses gun oil. You'll have to apply liberally and re-apply any time you see rust. Just hit it with a grey scotchbrite and then put the oil on the scotchbrite.

One last thing. DON'T SANDBLAST BODY PANELS!!!!!!!! They will warp!

 

not if your blaster knows what they are doing

 

With the right media and a somewhat experienced blaster, sheetmetal can be blasted. It's the best way to get rust really cleaned. Grinding leaves rust in pits.

I've been told that for a long lasting bare metal look, you can heat up a part, then quench it in oil. Supposed to open up pores which get filled with oil and retains the oil. Would only work with a part that you can get hot enough without ruining it, sheetmetal wouldn't work, but steering arms and **** like that would. Just a suggestion.