What are some things to be aware of when replacing the intake/exhaust manifold on my 1954 chevy belair 235 in line 6 with powerglide tranny. My manifold cracked that's the reason I'm replacing it, and I want to find a stock manifold. Thank you Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hey hey , make sure when you reassemble everthing that all mating surfaces are clean..I like to use 100 to 120 grit sandpaper to give gaskets a nice surface area to seal things up, also remember proper torque tightening sequence....if not sure , google it....love the 235 chevy motors..my buddy has one sitting around......now have at it.....lol
Thank you fellas. I noticed some intake manifolds have different size fittings, does that vary in year or car and trucks it's different ? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I learned at the age of 16 (68 now)......be very careful aligning the three sleeves/rings that fit in recesses on the intake manifold and cylinder head ports. If not properly aligned, it may look like the manifold is bolting up OK from the top, but you may be pulling it together at an angle. Best method is to hold the manifold up to the head with the carb tilted slightly out toward the fender. This will allow the rings to start on the bottom side. Also, a little trick is to slightly grind the edges of the sleeves to a knife edge rather that flat 90deg edge. Also, use mirror to look at under side of manifold to be sure the rings/sleeves are started properly.
I need to get mine back on too, after having my head redone. been trying to find the torque specs and tightening pattern but coming up with nothing. Anyone know them by chance?
Make sure the flapper works with the heat sensitive spring, if not you are in worse trouble than where you came from.
leave the bolts slightly loose between the intake and exhaust while you are attaching it to the head. After you tighten the bolts to the head tighten the manifolds to each other.
If I tried to loosen the bolts they would've snapped. I had the machine shop that did my head level them out so they're perfectly flat
That's pretty much what I planned on doing. I had to use a box end wrench to take the center bolts off so I need to figure out how I'm gonna use the torque wrench to put them on
the right way is to torque all the bolts to factory specs..............i have never done it on one of those motors.
There wasn't enough room to get a socket on for bolt removal. How are people getting one on to torque them back down? A crows foot maybe?
I've always tightened up the bolts by hand, without any issues. Finger-dab some Hi-Temp silicon-sealer to the back of the gaskets to help hold them in place. Ditto to the manifold openings just for GP. Get a buddy to help you position the manifolds, while you get the bolts started and drawn up - It's a PITA working solo, and it gets heavy QUICK! PM me if you need help finding a manifold. Good Luck, Tim
Which manifold are you replacing? Both or just the intake? Is there a specific reason you are looking to stay with the stock intake? The heat stove is in the exhaust only, and if you decide to go with headers, you can get a heat plate to put heat to your intake without the stove. You can use the plate on a stock or Offy, Fenton etc. Make sure you look carefully for cracks, as anyone who has a heat stove failure where the flap closed could easily crack the intake by overheating. Good luck!
Don't get too worked up over the proper torque on the manifold. Nice and tight-not gorilla tight will do. As for proper order, start in the middle and work to the outside, I would think, alternating tightening the bolts toward the front and rear, as you are looking at the engine from the side of the car.
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