I just ordered my under floor brake/clutch pedal from welder series. My next question is, how do I know where to mount it on the frame? I have a boxed frame with only the cab mounts on it, no other holes. There is no front or rear axle either. I am missing the removable part of the floor of my truck, so no help there. Where can I measure from to locate my pedals?
You don't indicate whether this is a stock frame or not but having gone through this myself on a 37 Dodge P/U, I would not use an underfloor set-up, especially if you're planning on running any kind of decent length headers, and will have any kind of transmission linkage in the way. The fit from the frame to a V-8 and to a transmission is very tight on these trucks due to the narrow frame. If you're running a mopar small block, the starter is also there so going with a mini-starter is best. I used an under-dash swinging pedal set-up for mine. I would not do it any differently. - EM
Yep it is a stock frame. I plan on building my own headers, and I am running a small block 360 with a ax15 5 spd. I have had the motor sitting in there, and have already seen how tight it is. I bought a m/c relocation, wich moves it back about 20 inches, but I still have to figure out where it sits.
Similar to yours, I set mine up with a 340 and a Viper 6-speed. I also built my own long tube headers (I'm not a fan of the so-called "shorty" headers). I used a later dodge P/U steering column and then coupled the end to a double-D shaft with borgeson joints to get everything where I wanted it to be (versus where it was with the stock set-up). This is also critical to get the steering set-up away from the edge of the engine block. These things, together with a mini-starter and a hydraulic-clutch slave cylinder allowed me to maximize the space that is normally taken up by linkages, etc. I needed to do that given that my header collectors needed to occupy that space. If your cab is mounted in the correct location. setting up the brake arm location is pretty easy. You also need to factor-in the transmission tunnel as this will also take away from the already tight foot-board area. Measure, measure, measure before welding. Good luck. - EM
Cab is in stock location. When I had the motor sitting in there I had it as low as it could be. It didn't look like there would be much of a raise in a tunnel. This is what the set up looks like, I also plan on the same style set up for my frame, wit the tubes. http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/ I got the pedals from Welderseries, a vendor on the HAMB. I would like to know more about your ******, how hard to mate to the 340, roughly how much?
The tube structure looks great although I would be even more worried about losing space with all of that. Routing exhaust is going to be a challenge. I mated the 340 to the Viper T-56 myself. I started with a steel blow-proof bell housing and modified it to accept the T-56 bolt pattern and mounting flange as well as boring the bell housing for the T-56 input shaft bearing carrier. I used a mopar small block clutch housing and pressure plate but a disc that not only fit the clutch housing but also had the correct input shaft diameter and spline count. It's been quite a while since I did this and don't have the P/Ns handy. One of the more difficult aspects of this project was the transmission tunnel due to the very long T-56. - EM
Here is where I am at, any opinions? This is for a brake clutch set up, I bought from welder series. Pics would be great.
Anyone ever put this set up in? How do I know where to locate the pedals? How much of the curved part should come through the floor? I have looked, but haven't found what I am looking for. I believe that the straight part of the pedal should run in the same plane as the angle of the floor, please correct me if I am wrong. There is also a clutch pedal also.
Thanks for using our parts. I'd suggest putting off mounting the pedals until you've got the floor in place so you know the pedal is going to be located where you want it. Not too much worse than an awkward transition between throttle/brake pedals, especially if you're always getting hung up on the side of the brake pedal. Also, the standard configuration would have the bracket rotated 180 degrees from how you have it set up in the picture. I think you'll find that you won't have any travel on the pedal before it hits the bracket if you mount it like that. Feel free to call if you want to chat about this. We want to help you enjoy your project. dw
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