Projects Gathering parts for a 32 pickup build

Well I picked up a 32 cab and box for this coming up winters project. Thinking of going on deuce rails with flathead. Looking for some traditional ideas for the build. I have been a trifive guy my whole life and with my dad's p***ing last December it has been kind of tuff working on them. Every time I pick up a part the memories flow on where we picked it up and all the things that were involved. I will finish the sedan as well but wanted to give an early build a try. Would like to blend some flathead speed parts in. I have a halibrand iron bell quick change I would like to use. I need to get things measured up but the list I am looking to use is:

32 cab
32 commercial grill shell
Boxed aftermarket 32 rails
40 complete front suspension with 37 wide five hubs juice brakes
Halibrand quick change that is set up semi float with large ford housing ends buick drums
Flathead with a t5 trans
"Trying to get in touch with the guy that has the dual plug Kong heads!"
Lake headers
I have a pair of 8" pie crust cheaters for the rear
Light chop "3 inches"
Cowl exit steering

Any thoughts or photos would be nice. If anyone has tried any of the ideas I mentioned and recommend something different let me know. Thanks and looking forward to the build. I also have a 30 5 window, 31 sedan and a 47 international to get together after this build!

 

Like this chop and stance

 

Sorry about your Dad. Go with what you like. There are some nice pickups here and I am sure you can get lots of ideas. Not too much glitz and you will be fine. Good Luck and I will be watching.

 

dude...your avatar is disturbing

 

Keep it simple , the kong heads are available but there is also a guy on ebay selling the kiwi made twin plug Hogan heads , goes by the name "elco"
Personally I am not convinced the cheater slicks are appropriate for your proposed build.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/engines/auction-883714474.htm

 

Do I need to swap out my avitar?

 

Can the mount be moved forward since starting from scratch to maintain the wheelbase? Sorry for the spelling will edit. At least I know you read the post!

 

I certainly don't see a problem with your avatar. I ***ume its your daughter? (or an old pic of you?) You picked a good truck, the black one in the pic, for inspiration. Load up some pics of the axle so we can see for sure what you have. Some of the cab would be good too. Also sorry about your Dad, and welcome to the Hamb. Don't be afraid to ask questions. we'll be glad to help. Tim

 

Refer to post #2 for intentions on the build. I changed my avitar to the picture of my daughter.

 

Thanks Tim I will get some pictures posted up of what I have.

 

Ok now I need to know what your avatar was that Larry found disturbing? I guess I did not notice before.

 

one young small boy flipping the finger next to another young small boy smoking a cigarette giving a peace sign with an adult in the background with a hoodie...he has sinced changed it to a pic of his daughter...no big deal now.

 

That is Disturbing! Sorry I doubted you Larry!

 

Your a little off Larry 3 kids I thought were pretty funny but I guess you don't. Replaced it for the thin skinners.

 

kindly go **** yourself newbie...and get off my lawn

 

My thread so you might want to check the lawn your standing in?

 

Yes, you could, but... out of 220,000 hamb members, only a dozen of those would really "get it", as far as copying something that was once done a lot, but rejected today by the sheeple-build crowd. There are a few famous old builds with it, but nobody will acknowledge it.

Spring ahead was "mostly" done to lower the car, without buying a dropped axle, and it came about from swapping in a complete hydraulic brake front end. Killed two birds with one stone. Mostly done on car without full fenders.

Just like channeling, there is now a problem with radiator placement. Also, as you might know, most spring ahead were using the stock spring mount location which shortened the wheelbase.

I have an early built car that they made a new spring mount crossmember ahead of the original, to maintain W/Base, then molded them together for a smoother look. I love the look, as it is what I recall long ago, and it's part of the reason that I bought the car

 

Thanks for the reply!

 

NOW CL***, CL***!!!

 

Good luck with the build, and you should go back to your original avatar

 

Thats better

 

Looks like a 40 also have what looks like a 39

 

I personally have never liked the look of the spring in front of axle on a pre '34 Ford. They need to be spring on top. Since you've already collected some nice stuff and it doesn't sound like you're planning on building a slapped together rod, spend a few bucks more and get the right axle/spring. Again I prefer the 32-34 bones, but using the 39-40 bones you already have wouldn't be a sin.

 

I will look into a 32 axle and spring on top or behind setup. Just throwing the axles out there that I have and getting some feedback on them. They may or may not work. I simply like the looks of the wide five wheels in the front but if there is an issue I will reconsider. There is a fine line for me with the look of buick drums in the front. I don't care for a bunch of drum showing. What seems to be the issue with wide fives in the front and conventional in the rear? Thanks for your replies! This is the reason I made the post was to get some good input on collecting parts this summer.

 

She is fairly rough but it is a 32 and I enjoy metal work.

 

If that is from Michigan it ain't that bad for a rust belt truck. At least from what I can see.

 

Rust belt side view! I am just north of Union Pier

 

I can't tell from the axle pictures, exactly what years. The wide five axles were 35-36 style, then 37-39 style, as far as what I-beam it has. The 35-36 front ends used the same I beam from 33 to 36, so a 35/36 front end can be taken apart and use the beam in a 32 Ford with spring above, using a 32-34 front spring and perch bolts. But you'd want to get the axle dropped, if spring above, in most cases.

Also, the 37 up beams could be used for spring above, but you need a special width spring made by Posies.

On the Buick drum "look"; the ones you don't like are probably cars that don't have enough wheel backspace, and then way too much drum shows.

I don't know anything about quick change rears, but is it possible to get some feedback here, on if you could get wide five drums to work on your rear axle?