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Technical TH350 Dipstick Filler Tube Issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 53CHKustom, May 20, 2015.

  1. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Hi All,

    I have a 53' Chevy with a 350 small block and th350 transmission. I replaced a few seals on the transmission and have no leaks except from a really silly place, the transmission dipstick tube (literally the tube).

    The previous owner never bolted the bracket, probably because of interference with the firewall. This resulted in the tube rubbing on the valve cover for years and cutting a big slot into it. It now leaks when I fill.

    I temporarily got some rubber hose and cut it in half and tie wrapped it so it would not s****e up my new valve covers, however I wanted to not have such a hokey setup.

    The issue is most dipstick filler tubes you can find or buy for the th350 are the o-ring type and I have the grommet type which I read is known to seal better. I replaced the grommet and have no leaking from down there.

    What should I do now? Make a custom bracket (maybe some conduit brackets from home depot) and bolt to the cylinder head bolt hole on the back?

    JB welding the 1/8th inch slot shut seems like a bad idea (particles that crack could end up in the trans. I could leave the rubber piece I have and maybe glue it from the outside so it doesnt get in the slot but seals better. I could also use a thin rubber hose to go below the slot when filling trans fluid with perhaps a smaller funnel.

    Does anyone have any advice?
     
  2. xxlv8
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 68

    xxlv8
    Member
    from USA

    Know a good welder? Tube is likely thin and contaminated but it can be done.
     
  3. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,600

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    If you have a local trany shop stop there with your tube and see if you can match it up or find one that would fit better.
     
  4. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks, which brings me to another interesting point, I tried to take that tube out and it was really hard.. the block is set back so close to the firewall. I may need to take the distributor out.
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,980

    squirrel
    Member

  6. pat59
    Joined: Sep 21, 2012
    Posts: 2,361

    pat59
    Member

    Or go to a junk year and see if you can find a replacement tube. Or that that evil auction house online. :)
     
  7. I just bought one off Ebay for $10
     
  8. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks! I actually saw that one earlier this morning. I remember it said: " These are not recommended for vehicles with minimal clearance between the bellhousing and firewall or transmission tunnel."

    I'm not sure that statement is more applicable than the original one I have on there.
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,980

    squirrel
    Member

    The problem is, you can't really tell how well it fits until you try it.

    If I were in your predicament, I'd just remove the dipstick tube, and weld it up with my torch.
     
  10. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks, I think I'll do that. I have a welder (which I still don't know how to use) It is set up with the fluxcore and I have a gas tank but it's not set up yet for that. I'm going to take an easy guess and say I should probably take the tube to someone that can do a decent weld for me given its thin metal and probably needs experience?
     
  11. nmpontiac
    Joined: Apr 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    nmpontiac
    Member
    from Taos, NM

    You should be able to find someone to cut a small piece of slightly larger tube, split it, and silver solder one half to your tube. easy.
     
  12. prewarcars4me
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,077

    prewarcars4me
    Member
    from Bhc, AZ

    You can always tweek it to fit better. A simple conduit bender works wonders.
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,980

    squirrel
    Member

    I would not try welding that with a MIG, and even less with flux core wire. A MAPP torch and brazing rod might work, too. The silver solder idea is good, too. And I would not discount the miracle of JB weld either, in this case I'd spread some epoxy around the hole, and put a piece of thin metal (think beer can) over the epoxy, and maybe clamp it by wrapping baling wire around it so it doesn't move as it cures. There is a filter in the transmission, and adding a little more **** to what's already in the pan should not hurt anything.
     
  14. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks again! I thought about JB weld again. I think I'll try that approach with some thin metal.
     
  15. prewarcars4me
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,077

    prewarcars4me
    Member
    from Bhc, AZ

    Can I ask why?
     
  16. Probably because the material is thinner than body metal plus the guy said he has not learned to weld yet.
     
  17. pat59
    Joined: Sep 21, 2012
    Posts: 2,361

    pat59
    Member

    don't forget to scuff up both pieces real well before putting on the JB weld.
     
  18. LWEL9226
    Joined: Jul 7, 2012
    Posts: 362

    LWEL9226
    Member
    from So. Oregon

    Braze it, shouldn't even need a patch unless the hole is really big....

    LW :cool:
     
  19. If it's only a pinhole or small crack, you could also soft solder it. I had a similar pinhole where it was spot-welded to the bracket, and took me a while to find because it was in a ***** of a spot.
     
  20. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 13,600

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Another option would be to get one of the Lokar dip stick tubes that are flexible.
     
  21. flexible-tube.jpg Summit....$50.00
     
  22. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,744

    bobss396
    Member

    Nice to have options. If it were mine (I'm cheap about some stuff..) I would go with the beer can-JB Weld patch option, let it set up good and shrink a piece of black shrink tube over the patch.
     
  23. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks I saw that one, if my repair doesn't hold up for long, I will get one that is flexible.
     
  24. 53CHKustom
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 1,433

    53CHKustom
    Member

    Thanks I was cheap indeed. I didn't even buy JB Weld. I used 3M Marine Sealant I had laying around which is really tough stuff used to seal hulls on boats, etc. I used a tight fitting 3/8 hose to make sure it wouldn't run along inside and when it set, I pulled the hose out.

    I've used that stuff to seal a lot of things in the past (mostly for marine engineering research projects I used to do in my grad years) and its tough to peal off, reasonably strong and still flexible.

    When I have time I'll look into a nicer looking solution. The open slot was 1/8th thick and a bit wide since it rubbed on a valve cover for quite some time. I'm pretty sure I have it sealed well now.
     

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