HEMI Tech: Alternator? Generator? Acc. Brackets?

Can you find a way to shrink those photos down? I can't see much on the screen, and scrolling back and forth is making me dizzy.

 

I mounted a GM generator down low. The adjuster arm is on the inside...It curves around the front of the generator. It seems to work just fine so far.

 

You did what I was thinking of doing. Is that a 6-volt (I ***ume)? Did you step it up to 12-volt?

 

One of the issues you run into with a low-mounted generator/alternator is the insufficient belt wrap on the crank pulley.

When you don't have enough belt contact, the belt slips.
Slipping belts wear quickly.
Worn belts don't do their job. i.e. cool the engine (water pump) and provide enough electricity to run the vehicle AND keep the battery up to snuff.

 

Right-click on the photo and save it to your computer then rezize it on your computer with your picture viewer.

 

Here's my low mount mopar alternator set up. I welded up some 1/4 inch plate to make the bracket, eliminated the mechanical fuel pump, and got a nice clean install.





notice the engine lift blocks that was to allow the modern oil filter and sanderson headers to clear the suspension. It lead to a lot of other issues.....

The tensioner is off a cub cadet lawn tractor.

 

Any ideas for a P/S pump on a 51-4 331?

 

There are two different generators for the 51074 Chrysler. One has bushings and the other has ball bearings. The ball bearing generator has studs on the back for the power steering pump.

 

What are you Desoto guys using for and Alt/Generator on the low-decks? Or...Am I the only one using the GM short pump conversion (276,291)

 

Desoto 330 Alternator Mount
I am using the original generator mounting bracket cut and welded to a piece of 5/16 flat steel. The 5/16x18 threaded hole at the front of the head is used as a mounting point. Another brace is run to the water pump bolt.

 

Here's my 270 Dodge Hemi with a late Mopar alternator. Simple offset bracket and a Summit brace

 

I would think that, after a while, the bottom corner of that 5/16" plate would begin to pull away from the cylinder head due to the lack of an anchor down there.

To test the theory, slip a pry bar behind the bracket and see if it flexes. If it does, you'll need to consider a bit more triangulation in the lower brace to the timing cover (perhaps out near the outer end of the bracket) or running a strap around to the front header bolt.

The brace needs to be rigid. If you can bend it at all, all of the angular strain will be on the 5/16" bolt on the head.

 

I thought about the lack of a mount at the lower corner. Considering the tension is being pulled toward the water pump, the three mounting points, including the adjusting arm, would be sufficient. After some more thought, I do have to agree with you on a more ridged mount. Upon your suggestion, I have revised the mount.
I may not know what I am doing, but that don’t mean I can’t get it right

 

I am seriously thinking about running an Imperial power steering pump/generator (on the same shaft).

Here's pics, and a service manual (big pics):
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567987

Here's one next to stude_trucks Hemi:

 

Generator, ammeter, regulator, HEI?

Ok guys, I think I screwed up and I have a few questions. I am not willing to give up the generator or it's look on Tuffy. I know there are alernators adapted to generator cases but I question their reliability and am I going to be stranded if the alternator goes out.

1. Did I screw up putting an HEI (inline ballist) unit with a 12 volt generator?

2. The generator does not appear to be charging the battery. I have a 12.4 before start up and a 12.4 when it's running. Shouldn't it go to 14.6? And yes I did polarize the generator.

3. Polarizing the regulator. When I bought the regulator I just matched up the voltage and amp rating of the original 1957 - as they did not have one in stock? Then to polarize I touched to Field to Batt (per instructions included) - but now I found a website that says touch the Amm to Batt while running? I am now thinking I have a Ford style regulator - is Mopar the same?

4. The ammeter is an old SW 30-0-30. It stay pretty close to the middle or a little negative? I used Squirrel's suggestion and came off the battery cable connected to the starter and wired it to the negative side of the ammeter and the positive side onto the regulator Batt and onto the fuse box. I used 12 gauge wire which I am changing out this morning to 10 gauge.

Any help is appreciated!

 

I bought one from Jeff Sullivan $30 or $40 1/4 plate plasma cut

 

TXMARK, do you have anything supporting the rear of the alternator?

 

I run a Mopar alternator on my Dodge 270 low right with a home made bracket. The tough part was spacing the pulleys (GM ) and making the lower radiator tube ( Six pieces of Stainless 1 1/2" tube from Ebay Chinese and they are beautiful and not expensive )