Has anyone used this Rebelwire 14 circuit harness to specifically wire a 55/56 Ford P***enger Car? Anything specific to our brand of cars that I should know? Tips and what have you? Does anyone have any good ideas on quality connectors?
I used a KwikWire 14 circuit harness which is probably generically similar though it uses the full size blade fuses and has an ignition kill switch mounted on the side of the fuse block. It was a great quality kit and was very extensive with the instruction manual. The one section that was not covered in the instructions or cabling was the interior light circuit. The 50s fords have a switch on the light unit whereas Chevys use a switch on the headlight switch to turn on the light. If you can't figure out the circuit I will post instructions. I used blade connectors and blocks to connect all wiring rather than using the bullet connectors that were original. In hindsight I don't know whether they are better or not. The brand we have locally in Oz (Narva) sometimes don't lock into the terminal block correctly and push out when you try to push the male terminal block into the female. You just have to confirm the joint once you push them together. The GM weather tight connectors might be better but I couldn't find a supplier of a kit here in Oz that would give me the options I wanted. A good crimping and stripping tool is essential. I didn't want to solder connections as it was going to be difficult with the dash in situ. I made the installation with provision for unplugging the dash and switches. I have had lots of fun over the years when removing steering columns of trying to get all the connectors back in. One thing that must be recognised with all these kits are that they are made for one auto brand and they have to be modified for Fords. It probably gives some testament to how bad the wiring is on this other family of cars.
This is the plug connector kit I used. I am sure there will be something similar for you stateside. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/291...t%3D705-139619-5960-0%26rvr_id%3D838640771480
Call Rebel wire and they can tell you how to wire up the headlight switch on your Ford,all these aftermarket wiring kits tend to be "GM friendly" and that is always what confuses the guys using them. We have had members with that issue many times over the years and many of them have moved on so calling Rebel is your best bet,it's an EZ fix and do yourself a favor and get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361017529037?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Those are great looking connector kits you guys are posting links to..wish I knew about them wnen I wired my car. I used connectors I found at Radio Shack. The one exception I'm aware of with the "most kits being GM designed" is Ron Francis. Their express kits are not as "universal" as others on the market, but each is built for a specific application. That's why you don't see Ron Francis wiring kits on a shelf at your local retail shop.
I have a Dorman electrical supply catalog that I hope will have everything I need. They're downloadable online.
Dan, I wired a buddy's 56 with a 428 and a 80's Mustang steering column using a similar kit. The only snag was the wire runs to the rear of the car were about a foot short if I recall correctly. And figuring out all the functions of the column was a pain in the padiddy. He used an externally regulated Ford alternator. We used Molex quick plugs for all the gauges. I was recovering from shoulder replacement at the time so it took me about a week to complete the job. Slow and steady and an endless supply of zip ties and shrink tubing are recommended.
Most of the connectors at O'Reilly or Autozone are Chinese junk I got some of mine at Wal-Mart which are USA made 3M brand. You may find local dealers with a larger selection from this:http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/ElectricalWireConnTools/
Hate to keep harping on this, but all the problems you guys are bringing up...GM friendly color coding, steering column connectors, short wiring, not even mentioning wire quality...these are all problems you won't have with Ron Francis kits. The old saying, you get what you pay for, not to mention supporting one of the few vendors that supports us FORD guys. Universal shouldn't be synonomous(sp?) with GM.
The headlight switch kit is a must if using the original headlight switch. H4 headlight s are usually higher wastage than the original sealed beams and the kit Jeff has posted will simply use the headlight switch as a switch for the relays. No more headlights flashing on high beam.
I found some terminals/single-wire connectors at Lowe's that I liked because the gage of the metal was heavier than cheapie stuff, and also no cracking of the insulation. The usable selection there is somewhat limited for automotive use however, so for the specific terminals your looking for, the Dorman brand at the Autozones, O'reilly's is usually what your gonna end up with unless you want to order online every time you run into something not in your toolbox. Also, the "insulation displacement connectors" type of splices and terminals do not work very well, if at all, with the higher grades of wiring (GXL,SXL, etc). Those metal "V's" that the wire is forced down into just won't penetrate the abrasion resistant insulation....that's a good thing. The correct crimping tool is a must...I bought 2 (or3 or 4) before I found one that I really liked...made by Greelee (home depot or Lowe's?), that and a Greelee wire stripper is what I ended up using for 95% of the terminal crimping.
Yeah, the kit wire jackets are too thick to use IDC connectors. I have a few crimpers around and I can borrow a Molex from work if I need it. This plus a good stripper (definition.. will give you change for a $20 as she dances..) is one of those areas where you need to spend the $$.
I have used similar harness' to wire dozens of 50's and 60's cars. The most important thing to remember is everything needs a proper ground. I can't stress that enough. Ground everything in the car. The second thing is quality connectors. I buy them in bulk without the insulation and heat shrink them for a cleaner look. This company sells just about every connector I've ever needed. http://www.jkelectronics.com.
A tip....find yourself an electrical "fishing line" that doesn't have a hook on the end. The red nylon one in the pic is perfect..6 bucks at Harbor Freight. It has bullet ends with a cross hole on both ends that won't get hung up on stuff. One of those ends is visable in the pic just above the date code. I recently installed an electric trunk release and used a starter switch ****on (next to the speaker opening). I didn't want to remove the garnish rails and side panel to run the wiring from behind the seat...the fishing line worked perfect.
Thanks guys for all of these tips. I am out of town right now but I did order some of those uninsulated connectors because I have quite a bit of heat shrink and can choose the color of the insulation then for each terminal. Also, I would have the option to solder too if need be for some reason. Nice tip on the fishing line. I will have to look for that the next time I am at Harbor Freight.
The Jalopy Journal
