Hi Guys! I need to replace the oil pan gasket on my coupe. The shop manual states that whenever the pan is removed the oil though pipe in the pan has to be checked for proper alignment using gauges. Is this correct? I don't have access to these gauges of course. Also is there any precautions I need to know about to drop and re-install the pan? I guess the trough pipe comes off with the pan? I have very good oil pressure when driving so I would ***ume the pipe is currently doing it's job. I purchased the gasket set from Chevs of the 40's so I'm ready to start this project, just being cautious. Thanks for any help! Greg
Thanks! those directions will definitely help determine if adjustment is needed. Thanks again for your post!
The real danger in the old Chevys was to run over something and put a dent in the oil pan. The dent would bend the oil pipe and the oil stream would miss the dipper. It only took a few miles for the bearing to burn out and the rod to start knocking.
Last one I did I set up a small pump and pumped kerosene through the nozzles and observed where it would spray, using about 5-10 psi pressure.
There were three gages offered by Kent-Moore to check nozzle alignment, sold as a set - p/n J-969 (1937-1942 216 engines). One was to check & set the oil dipper heights as well as the trough heights. The 2nd one was used to check oil nozzle heights. The 3rd was the "target" gage and was used for aiming the nozzle spray. I believe that either (or both) The Filling Station or Chev's of the 40's have the target gage available to rent.
There's some kinda hairpin/snapover spring clips holding the squirters to the trough ... check for missing or broken pieces. Now's the time to check for acid etch & adjust the rod clearance.
I have a Kent Moore tool that we used in a little Chevrolet dealership back in the day. It is a metal structure that has dowels to index it to the oil pan rail. You set this gauge/template on the oil pan rails. You then hook a water hose to the main feed line in the pan that supplies all the "squirters". There are six holes in the template. You adjust the squirters until the stream of water coming out of them p***es exactly thru each of the six gauge holes in the template. If the stream is not right, you adjust squirters accordingly. Did many of them as a routine on regular overhauls of 216 and 235 engines as a kid in the 1960's helping my uncle.
On the side of the pan opposite the "squirters" are small "squares" that are stamped into the side of the pan. Scribe an "X" across each "square, hook up a water hose to feed the "squirters" and adjust the flow so it hits exactly in the middle of the "Square".
check out the 216 social group, lots of info: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/chevy-216s.551/
WOW, as always you guys are a great wealth of knowledge! Many thanks for helping me keep my '37 running on the roads. As of last night I have now logged 1,ooo miles since June 1st 2014 ! This old Chevy is a blast to drive.
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