I've got a 60 Pontiac with a weathered(?) windsheild that's too expensive to warrant replacing right now. Any easy way to polish it for a little more clarity?
Try a gl*** shop and ask for jewelers rouge, thats what I used to get wiper marks out of a windsheild before.
You could use toothpaste and a buffer/polisher,make sure you keep the pad slightly wet so it don't burn the gl***.
I did all the gl*** in my 63 wagon by buffing with 3M's perfect-it III and a polishing foam pad (with a buffer at slow speeds). Turned out pretty nice, didn't take out all the scratches but got rid of the haze and its a hell of a lot better than what it was. Jewelers rouge sounds likea good idea too, I'll have to try that.
eastwood makes a kit for that it a foam pad and compound heres the link http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2010&itemType=PRODUCT
Local gl*** shops will not do it because they say they had to many complaints about distortion in the finished product.
This might sound crazy to many of you but I did it on my 53 Pontiac and it turned out crystal clear. Get some steel wool with the grading of 0000 or 00000 from your local hardware store and use some windex. Press somewhat firmly and simply scrub the window with the windex and steel wool. My windows look like they're broken they are so clean.
Does that work? My '55 Dodge has some wiper wear marks and I was wondering if there was a simple method I could use to try to clean it. I've heard of the 00000 steel wool to take bad bug marks off of gl*** but never to actually polish the gl***. I'm gonna have to try that.
I used the Eastwood Cerilium paste in the above link on my Chevy's gl***. It works well at removing scuzz from the gl***, but what they advertise about "not being able to remove scratches that'll catch your fingernail" is true.
Don't really wanna hijack the thread but it's kinda' on-topic: My Merc has blotchy stains on the gl*** and I wondered if overspray from POR- "Metal Ready" etchant might be the culprit?. (I POR'd the engine bay and cowl areas). I hadn't driven it in the rain before the build so I don't know. In the rain it looks "blotchy" like fungus or something. PB (NOT the Merc):
ALL good tips. Thanks. I'm not trying to remove scratches, but the "scuzz" as you put it. I'll try the steel wool and Windex first, and work my way up from there i guess.
Prior to me buying my 41 Pontiac coupe, it was parked in with goats. They gathered gravel and rocks on their hooves and played king-of-the-hill on my car. Scratched up the paint and gl*** badly. I took it over to my buddy's body shop and we tried a buffer with foam pad and good old rubbing 3m compound. I had the cleanest gl*** in town but all the scratches stayed. I had to replace the gl***...
I'm not trying to eliminate the scratches. Just trying to restore some clarity/eliminate the haze or cloudiness. This make sense? Is it easily doable?
Roadite[SP] is what most gl*** shops use. Its a paste and you must have the correct buff pad [ hard rubber?] to make it work. As stated before it will not take out scratches that will catch you fingernail.
Jewler's Polish/Rogue is very similiar to toothpaste, the jewler's polish has the same consistency as toothpaste.... I have a 67 Tempest I dragged home from Arizona, the windshield was "sand-blasted" a bit to say the least. After a few hours with the finest steel wool I could buy and some jeweler's polish, I had it WAY better than when I had started... just be sure not to let the polish get too "pasty," keep it reasonably moist.... I then "buffed" it with some Aquapel (similiar to Rain X but twenty times better imo) and a buffing wheel on a da sander.... I couldn't believe the difference, it wasn't quite like new but it sure looked a hell of a lot better and from the inside, it made a huge difference in vision.... hope this helps....
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