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Technical How to mount a hood hinge bracket on a 1934 ford

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 34Joe, Jun 16, 2015.

  1. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Just bought a new Griffin Radiator for my 1934 Ford Coupe .On top of the radiator there are two holes where the front hood hinge should screw into,but there are no threads and the aluminum looks too thin to tap.The radiator is a 7-70082. Anyone had the same problem? Appreciate any info on how to make it work.Thanks,Joe.
     
  2. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,815

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    Maybe a call to Griffin could get you and accurate answer? Not trying to be a smartazz, but, that's what I would do.
     
  3. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    They seemed to not have an answer.
     
  4. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,339

    BJR
    Member

    Are the holes open so you can get a nut underneath?
     
  5. timwhit
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,188

    timwhit
    Member

    I had one in a '32 pickup a few years ago. I recall putting a steel plate under the bracket (duct taped) for fear of running the screws into the top tank. Don't recall about the threads but should be easy enough to thread with a bottom tap. Sure seems like Griffin shoulda had an answer however!!! Tim
     
  6. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    The two holes are blind,cant get underneath to use nuts,and as far as tapping them, the aluminum is only about 1/16 inch thick.
     
  7. terry48435
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 477

    terry48435
    Member

    Is it possible to use a "J" nut?
    jnut2.jpg j nut.jpg
     
  8. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Great idea but the grill shell sits on top of the raised area that has the two holes for mounting,and only have 1/4 inch of depth to work with. underneath the holes.
     
  9. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,815

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    So, your saying that Griffin builds a radiator for a 34 Ford, but they have no idea how the hood hinge is supposed to mount? Really? Who engineered that cluster?
     
    clem likes this.
  10. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,775

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Tell them your answer; "I'm returning it for a refund and then I'm buying a Walker". Seriously, for what a new radiator costs ($700 ?), you shouldn't have to tap or fab anything or have to look outside the manufacturer for some simple tech help.
     
    clem, verde742 and Johnboy34 like this.
  11. hotrodrhp
    Joined: Sep 19, 2008
    Posts: 456

    hotrodrhp
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Have a Griffin on my 34. Not possible to use J clips or a backing plates. You cannot tap the holes either. I simply used self tapping fine tread machine screws with stainless flat washers to distribute the fastening load. Check the length of bolts carefully as the bracket is very close to the top tank. Have had no problems at all in three years of use.
     
    timwhit likes this.
  12. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Appreciate the info,its probably the only way to solve the problem.
     
  13. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,585

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    aren't they supposed to be riveted? if not, why not rivet them?
     
  14. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Cant rivet the grill shell to the radiator as the grill shell is sandwiched between the hood end bracket and the radiator.
     
  15. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    Do you run a stock style four piece hood? No problem with the screws pulling out?
     
  16. hotrodrhp
    Joined: Sep 19, 2008
    Posts: 456

    hotrodrhp
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I run a stock four piece hood not a problem so far. Careful not to over tighten the machine screws. Suppose you could use lock tight if concerned about bolts loosening but I prefer to be able to loosen and remove the hood at will.
     
  17. BURN OUT BOB
    Joined: Apr 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,859

    BURN OUT BOB
    Member Emeritus
    from western AZ

    get some J-B Weld & a couple of 8 32 nuts or 10 32 if the hole is big enough to handle the screw. Glue the nuts to the underside of the shell.Slide a spacer underneath to hold the nuts tight to the shell.There should be enough room there for them. As stated do not over tighten them snug is good.
     
  18. captain scarlet
    Joined: Jun 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,434

    captain scarlet
    Member
    from Detroit

    On my 32 I tapped a 3mm piece of steel and slid it under the tab.
     
  19. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    34 radiator bracket mounts are different than a 32. Wish this could be done.
     
  20. perrytudor32
    Joined: Sep 7, 2012
    Posts: 161

    perrytudor32
    Member
    from uk

    I used countersunk steel rivnuts.worked a treat.
     
  21. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    I don't have the depth to use rivnuts on this application.
     
  22. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

  23. 1956 F100
    Joined: Nov 26, 2007
    Posts: 801

    1956 F100
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Mount the Radiator cap to the grille shell.
     
  24. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

    How?
     
  25. 1956 F100
    Joined: Nov 26, 2007
    Posts: 801

    1956 F100
    Member
    from Louisiana

    Joe, I dis***embled the bottom of the cap and put a stud in the screw hole. Then mounted as per picture.
    image.jpg
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
  26. 34Joe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 191

    34Joe
    Member

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