is anyone making a better looking alternator than original equipment? I know this topic is exhausted for where to mount, how to mount, etc, but unless you want black, raw or chrome... your alternator options seem to be limited. In my case, I would like to hear about options for SBC. Anyway.... if anyone has advice, tips, etc. let me know. I have to run mine high as I cannot hide it low on the motor or even off the rear end.... I don't have that kind of room to hide, so I need to run exposed.
I will most likely get a ton of flack about this, but If you are not running a lot of amps and want small, I use the little Denso at about 50 or 60 amp output. Real cheap on EBAY. I don't know what you call custom, guess you could paint it or something.
I don't see how a Hot Rod would need more than a 50/60 amp alt. We used a 40 amp alt off of a cricket in a blown 30 A roadster and it worked fine.
Uncle Bob.... that is awesome and I am sure I can make that work no problem. Guess I need a Denso Alt and a bracket. Love it! and no.... I don't need any big amps.... I run gauges, stop and running lights, and well.... aside from the motor, that's about it.
So where to get the bracket? Speedway makes a high mount bracket. But I can't find a low mount bracket for the mini.
I have a plasma table... if someone can email me a template, I can make a couple. I'm not looking to get into a new business but if I can get a template so I can cut myself a bracket for a denso.... I will return the favor and make a couple brackets. Also... does anyone have a part # or an ebay post for the correct alternator.... it would really be helpful.
The old Mopar alternator looks pretty nice, it's sort of large though. And the finish is not what you probably consider "nice", although you could polish it, get it chromed, paint it, or leave it raw (which is what I would do). I run the old GM alternator that was first used in 1962 on a couple of mine, it requires an external regulator.
Denso Alternator: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHEVY-M...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8c98db8c&vxp=mtr Lower mount for Denso. They are on ebay too. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/bracket_kits.html
Compact unit off a local GM on my 35 Chev, it mounts low like the Denso after I turned the low mount bracket 180 degrees. Works fine but a little larger. Almost out of sight, it produces more amps than I require and it was free.
I run 3 of those Denso 93mm alts and love them. However, be careful which ones you buy off eBay. They are all advertised as 1-wire, but the 'jumper-wire' type have a 300mA draw that will kill your battery in a day or two if you don't install a cut-off switch. Others, like the Powermaster 8162, do not have this draw... so with the key off my battery stays hot for weeks/months without needing the switch. If you buy off eBay, I'd avoid RareElectrical... I had a bad experience with those guys. Bracket shown is Powermaster 770, I believe.
I have that setup I pictured for sale locally, bracket, spacers, alt, and lead. Aluminum bracket was custom made several years ago before the commercial guys got into it.
You can always use the Powermaster alternator that looks like a generator for that vintage old school look. HRP http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/powergen.html
Check out I belive its john deere. They make a sealed alternator that has fins on it to cool it. If its not a J.D. it a implement of some type. Sorry sort of vauge.
hey Uncle Bob... did you say you have that setup for sale? PM me with info.... I like your setup and I like not having to guess what will work. BTW... I have a short water pump, not a long.
Some of my notes from a OT quest for a small alternator to use on a 3 cyl Kubota diesel, but applies to our requirements as well. Would have used the info if I didn't have a older GM for the A. Selecting an alternator has not been easy. Basically here is what I have found. The 35 amp units are from a 1978 Honda civic. This unit costs $21 at the auto parts store plus $35 for a core. It requires an external regulator ($50), and does not last very long due to vibration/heat. It MUST be cooled! These alternators can be made to last longer if the unit is dis***embled, and potting compound is applied to the wires where they are welded on the diode leads. This reduces vibration and will extend the life of the unit. Although these are initially low priced, over the long term they are costly, when considering break downs, need for regulators. There are fantastic units out there. I narrowed it down to a 1987 Toyota Camry and a 1987 Suzuki Samurai. The Toyota units ($99 lifetime warrantee) is the same size as the cheapo Honda, but will withstand high RPM, has internal regulation, and belts out an impressive 80+ amps. It also weighs about a pound more than the Honda. This would have been choice had I needed the power. Not needing the power, I chose the Suzuki (Nippon Denso - $99 lifetime warrantee) to power my ship. This little alternator is a jewel. It is tiny, weighs very little, is internally regulated to 14.5V, has dual internal cooling fans, makes 55 amps, can withstand high RPM, and has a solid reputation for longevity. A lot of people talk about alternators from a GEO Metro. I checked these and they are identical to the Suzuki unit (Nippon Denso) except they come with a serpentine belt pulley, requiring the builder to buy and install a V-belt pulley. Regarding the JD unit, Made by Nippondenso, for Yanmar, which is the brand of the engine JD uses in this model. I found it was rated at 40 Amps, and is wired similar to a GM alternator. It measures just over 4" diameter, and 4 3/4" long. It has an internal fan. Part No. Denso 100211-4530 Hope this might be of some help Canuck
Not trying to hijack, but I have a question. How many amps would I need for a 32 5w with air conditioning. No power anything. And maybe a radio.
so I found a measurement chart for a low mount alternator bracket for both a full size alt and a denso alt. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/bracket_kits.html I too some measurements and made a temaplate I am right at 10.5 or so from center of crank pulley to my frame rail. I don't see a low mount alternator happening without making a custom mount and even then, a baseball card worth of thickeness between the alternator and the frame is probably not a good thing if you factor in vibration.
I agree that the finned Mopar Alternator looks great. It is also the closest to being a "traditional build" option, as Chrysler was the first to use them (circa 1960) http://www.allpar.com/eek/alternators.html Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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