so I put my gl*** back in the car,i never done this before and everybody told me I didn't need to put any sealant and I noticed that both front and back gl*** leaks alil when it rains.i wont to get this fixed before I put the carpet in it.ive read a lot of post that talk about adding sealant after the gl*** is installed.will this work? its is a 1953 chevy 210 also has stainless trim around windows.a local gl*** company sold me a tube or 3m glazing
If my car I'd remove both screens & lay a bead of sealer in rubber before putting the gl*** in & another bead in the opening before reinstalling. Clean up the residual sealer & they won't leak or rust.
Best to add a strip of rope chalking on the edge of the pinch weld. Then install the w/shield and rubber. When using the repop rubber you will need some sealer!
Most the time it's the corners that leak. You might be able to lift the corners and squeeze in some urethane
if I only knew then what I know now I would have put the sealer on the rubber before putting the gl*** in
It happens. I didn't use any sealer in mine but we don't get alot of rain. I had never installed gl*** before I did mine and just imagined I would make more of a mess if I tried to use some sealer. I do remember we used to sell "flowable" window sealer when I worked at the parts store. Maybe something like that would work for you. Worth a try, I cant imagine you have much space to put anything else in there since you are running the trim moulding
Years ago I had this issue-a gl*** shop sold me some sealer with a very small tip and it went between the rubber and the gl***-was clear and went in the groove-was on wife's 55 and we lived where it rained a lot--stopped all leakage. This car had the trim molding on as well-that was 25 yrs ago--still there
Bite the bullet. Carefully remove the chrome trim, take a plastic spatula (home improvement tool used for tub caulking, many different shapes) and lift the rubber for 3" at a time, 3m clear silicone is best. I use a squeeze bottle from my daughter's beauty supply house, it has 1 oz. capacity...is 3/4" dia. X 1" in length, has a variety of 'needles' with it...(for 'streaking' hair in fine streams...but also has larger dia) Wife and I are building small scale model airplanes, and use these for glue application...they can be washed out afterward...I used this bottle with silicone on my rubber around my '66 VW windshield, excellent results. Just a tiny bit, be careful not to use so much it 'oozes' back out when the rubber lays back down. Or...take a trip to your friendly gl*** shop. ($$$$)
You can get some "flowable" window sealer at the local auto supply. Cut a small opening in the tip and slide it in under the edge of the weatherstrip, squeeze the tube and work your way around the window. Do the top and sides.. bottom isn't critical.... water flows down hill. I have used this method on new installs and works great. If you put the sealer in the channel of the weatherstrip you will find yourself covered with RtV by the time you get the gl*** in
I just ordered new gl*** for my 40coupe., The owner, Carson at Street Rod Gl*** CA suggested this for installation on the front windshield. "Use a 3M product for sealing, it Never hardens so you maintain the seal.' He did state "it's Messy" but first use the 3m product to seal the window to the inner seal groove, install both windshield gl*** with the gasket dry between the pinch weld seam and the gasket. After you have the window in place and the gasket against the body spray along gasket with window cleaner to prevent too much getting onto the paint, use the tube of 3m sealer and a fine tip along with a GOOD caulking gun slip the tip up under the rubber and the body/pinch weld and put a decent amount of sealer in there. He said it will ooz out but you can clean it up with mineral spirits/paint thinner (same) You may have to do this a few times (clean up) but that was his recommendations. I have not done this yet but having put a few windows in 40's it make sense and I don't feel like having a hand towel at the ready to dry the water as it comes in thru the window. In NJ it does rain and we do drive them in that stuff. Hope this helps this is information from a professional so I tend to listen when they speak
The front and back windows on my 51 fleetline were leaking bad. I cleaned up the windows and rubber. I then used masking tape and taped around the gl*** right next to the rubber and then tapes the rubber right next to the gl***. I used a 3-m product in a caulking gun and stuck it between the rubber and gl*** and squeezed a bead of the black sealant all the way around. Then I used my finger and alot of paper towels to wipe off the excess. and then I pulled the tape off carefully. then I did the same thing a couple days later on the body side. I have no more leaks.
The previous owner didn't seal my windows. I used 3m 8610 sealer all around the edge of mine by lifting the edge then extruding a fine bead between the seal and window. It was messy but cleans up with mineral spirits and has stopped my leaks so far.
I have been installing auto gl*** for a living for over 30 years. NEVER USE SILICONE TO SEAL A GL***!!! only use a product made for sealing auto gl***. Silicone does not flow and will not seal a leak. Nothing will stick to silicone so trying to seal a gl*** after silicone has been used is nearly impossible.
Question A lot of rubber seals for installing gl*** on the directions say to use oil or water to help install the rubber seal making it easier. well if one is to use gl*** sealer when installing the rubber seal, the oil and sealer are not compatible ?
I spoke with a couple gl*** installers who said they would install the gl*** but could not guarantee no leaks because the after market seals don't fit correctly . They told me it will look like factory but , if it is a daily driver they could not guarantee no leaks . I don't believe that . But....that's what I was told . I would think squeezing sealant in around seal after gl*** in would do the job
I used permatex black rtv sealant to stop leak in my rear window. Leak was between gl*** and gasket. The permatex was all I had in the shop. Sometimes you get lucky and if it did not work it's easy to remove because it does not really bond2939052[/ATTACH]
As said before "DO NOT USE SILICONE TO SEAL AUTO GL***".... every time I work on a car that someone has used silicone. ..there is rust where ever the silicone was.. I believe it traps and holds water... Use urethane sealer..it sheds water. .. Messy..yes !
National Chevy ***ociation sells sealant for gl*** , not sure if silicone or not. , but comes in caulk tube .
I have been reading every thread about leaky gl*** and even started one myself. I just ordered a tube of 3M 08551 clear sealer. I'll report back on how it works. I had tried the "flowable"silicone and it turned yellow on short order and the majority of it peeled off when I started playing with it. Then I tried some other black caulking, no love. Fortunately that mostly peeled off too. According to the 3M data sheet, this stuff is an acrylic resin and not silicone based. Wish me luck.
Friend uses 3m black strip chalking on the pinch weld. Factory used a white/ yellow stuff that didn't dry hard. Years ago in the factory we had a sealer labeled 621. It was a thin sealer that we used to seal door runners and gl*** leaks. Not seen any like it on the outside.
Yes that is what was on my pinch weld when I removed my windshield / seal on my 54' bel air . It was still very pliable & yellow in color .
Who is this everybody that suggested you not need sealant?,they originally used something besides the rubber gaskets. Pull the gl*** and reinstall correctly,adding it now will look like a globed up mess. HRP
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