I was buffing out a SS headlight ring, got caught up in my buffing wheel, and popped the ring apart. It's pretty thin, I plan on just "fusing" it in 2 or 3 spots from the inside. Two questions, will the discoloration buff out?...***ume I'll get a "blue spot" on the outside 2ndly, I don't have any thin SS to practice on, so it's going to be a one-shot deal...I've a bunch of thin steel in the 20-24 gauge range, would that work well to practice on first?..Or should I head into town and try to find some thin SS? I've only used this welder a few times on thicker mild steel, it's Airco DipStck 160 with HF box, but no foot control...guess it's considered "Scratch Start", but with the HF box on, I don't ned to touch the Tungsten, it'll light off in time. I guess you can tell I've never Tigged SS before
I would absolutely head to town and find some thin SS to practice on. This way you can dial in your machine, get a feel and see without ruining your part.
They were probably actually spot welded originally. Isn't there a little piece of backup material on the back side? It is not likely that you are going to have much luck just fusing them if you are not pretty proficient with a TIG welder and without a wow peddle you have no heat control. You will be well off to practice on some s**** before you tackle something as light as a headlamp ring and even after that you should have a piece of filler in your hand even if it is just something that you cut from the s**** that you practice on.
I can't detect a spot weld, I did notice on the other ring where it "folds back" that there is a parting line in the same place mine came apart, but for the life of me I can't see anything resembling a weld. I think I'll do as said here, pick up some stuff in town and get it set up and working right.
You might be better off to find a sheet metal shop and have it spot welded with a machine and operator that are set up to do that kind of work. Probably wouldn't cost ya more than a Buck or Two. The Wizzard
Hmnn...you think a hand held spot welder would work?, I have an HF one that's worked pretty well on sheet metal, I could make up and form some backing and do it...might be the safest approach?
You bet. Turn the timer way down and put in your smallest contacts. I would still do a test weld on s**** if your not real familure with it's heat range. The Wizzard
Practice Practice Practice I was a SS tig welder most of my life and I can tell you doing very light material is not easy for a beginner, especially if you are not familiar with the machine.. If you can back it up with something it will help.
SS is easier to tig then mild steel. Use a piece of br*** to soak up the heat in the back. But use SS filler wire. When you dip the filler wire in the puddle it will cool the weld, fusing might be too hot. Use a good sharp tungsten too. Also use a dedicated SS wire brush while it still hot to take most of the dicoloration away. BUT yes, as has been suggested practise on something else first.
My 2 cents (for what it's worth) I'm a ****py welder with a good machine, I've amazed myself with a job well done & I've blown holes in what I thought was a simple tack. On something like this that is non structural and doesn't show I tack them together with silicon bronze. Less heat and it works better than JB weld. The heat may leave a bump on the front if it's thin and yes the blue will buff out. Don't hang it up again!
Thanks again Gents, will pick up some s**** and try it out. Never done anything thin with the Tig before, I think I'll play it safe and use my spot welder and make some backing.
Silicon bronze is great when you are not sure what kind of steel/iron you are working with. Very forgiving!
I'm going to have to google Silicon Bronze and see what it's about. And Redo...moral of the story is don't drink and buff
Silicon bronze is like brazing, flows really nice with a tig. I've been buffing since 1970.......it's always the headlight rings. I worked with a guy that would get loaded before work, said it slowed everything down. He was the fastest production polisher I ever seen. He swore that he would teach his hands to go thru the motions and he would daydream away and check back with his hands every 6 or 8 parts to make sure they were still doing the job. Me, I have to pay attention to the buff wheel.
Hell I would just take it to a good friend that is a pro with a tig and in 5 min it would be done and done very nice. Give him a 12 pack for his troubles. Then help him drink it.......
It always helps on these deals to post a location where you are at. You could be just down the street from a member who would just zapp it for you just to be nice, but Calif is a big state
I would go with the spot welder idea, and I am a pro Tig welder who also teaches the trade. The spot welder set up properly and tested on like material is the best advice you have been given Although if you were closer, I'd fix it for you and even share the beer you brought
I went with the spot welder, no timer on mine, just a switch, chopped up a hose clamp as advised, and then started the "1000 -1 , 1000- 2" thing, got it pretty good, then shaped hose clamp piece to fit snug on the inside and put it all together. Will post pics tomorrow after I buff the spot again...***uming I don't break again either PS...while you was setting up your machine, I might have drank all the beer LOL!
Ran into the same issue yesterday. The headlight ring looks like it was fusion welded. Sort of a **** weld. Anyways, I had some stainless wire for my mig and just tacked it together on the backside. Worked out just fine, just need to have some kind of heat soak behind it.
I might be missing something but have you tried silver solder? The SS vent gl*** hinge on my 66 Ford came loose where it was spot welded together at the factory. Silver soldered it back on to 1/4 gl*** frame and buffered it up. You wouldn't have known otherwise.
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