I have a 1932 Ford Coupe with a 700-R4 transmission running a sbc with Holley carb. The transmission worked perfectly until I removed the intake and replaced it with a tri power carb. setup running 3 Stromberg carbs. The progressive linkage that came with the tri power didn't have setup for the kickdown linkage (tv cable) whatever someone wants to call it. I made a link to hook up to the kickdown cable but transmission will not shift out of first gear. I pulled the carb.throttle linkage all the way open, then installed the kickdown with a little looseness, so it wasn't too tight. I know this cable adjusts oil pressure inside the valve body for shifting. I haven't driven the coupe more than 50 feet each time that I tested it (3 times), then went back in reverse. Anyone have this same problem that can help. I would appreciate any ideas. A friend of mine thinks the piston inside of the trans is stuck & won't return to normal position. Thanks m.ralph@yahoo.com. 713 927-9930 m.ralph In the photos the first 2 are at rest position, #3 at open throttle. (No comments on the temporary throttle cable until I install my Lokar cable.)
1. Pull the slack out of the kick down cable and pull it 3/8" more. 2. If you are still having issues, take it to a transmission shop. Ask a hotrod buddy to recommend one.
Sounds to me like maybe your pulling too hard on the cable. By the way it's not a kickdown cable it's a throttle pressure cable. It controls all the pressures in the transmission. When and how it shifts is all controlled by the adjustment of that cable. Loosen the cable up a bit and see if it shifts then.
Be careful. Get this wrong, and it is bye bye transmission. Do NOT operate it it until you get this straight.
The first step would be to let us see what it looks like. Pictures of the carb linkage...preferably a straight side view, at idle, and at wide open throttle, and maybe some points in between. btw this is what it needs to do:
Thanks Squirrel, that is very good information. I will take some close-up photos of my linkage tomorrow and post them. I tried all kinds of different angles and tensions on the cable. For the last two days nothing has helped. I wished that I had kept the old 4 barrel carb on her, it shifted perfectly with that setup.
REPETE...... Do NOT drive until set up properly.... That cable controls pressure you can't just keep driving and tweaking how you think it should shift. .. Talk with a 700r4 guy before you attempt to go any further!
1. It is not a kickdown cable. 2. Follow exactly the diagram Squirrel has supplied. These dimensions are critical. 3. Irrespective whether your running a single carb or tri-power the ratios shown in the above diagram for the main carb should be followed. 4 as others have said, driving the car without the TV cable set correctly will burn up your trans in a very short time.
You're on the right track but this is maybe just a bit oversimplified. The other half of the equation is governor pressure, which relates to and increases with vehicle speed. The balance, or more often the imbalance, between throttle pressure (which increases with throttle opening) and governor pressure is what determines shift timing and firmness.
How far have you driven with the incorrect setup? It does not take long at all before you ruin the transmission. Make the geometry match what Squirrel posted, BEFORE you put it in gear again.
I set mine up with a trams line pressure gauge, the numbers can be found online for what you should see in each gear. The main concerns are the line pressure should go up as soon as the throttle is moved and the cable should be at full extension at WOT but not be acting as the throttle stop. You could just have a governor issue but I would verify line pressure first.
www.bowtieoverdrives.com has a whole bunch of information about the 700-R4 and getting it set up right, even if you don't buy their stuff. Lots of useful info there. Also, does your TV cable have any slack in it with the throttle closed? With the TV disconnected (slack), my 700 would go into a limp/safe mode. There is a check ball that sets a continuous line pressure if it sees the slack, regardless of what your cable/throttle setting is after that. Shutting the engine off for 30 sec or so after it set would get it back to normal. This may or may not apply to all 700's but did mine, which is an '86 I believe. But, as others said, best to get it as close as you can before driving.
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