Vapor lock when fuel gets into intake

Hi guys, I have a 200 inline 6. I have problems with the fuel, vapor lock. Gas is getting thru the line. Gas is in bowl and squirts fuel in. You can see gas squirt into the intake but as soon as it enter the intake it turns to steam like vapor lock, idk how to fix this. I heard of those spacers to reduce heat but isn't that only if it's getting vapor lock in the fuel bowl? .. I've looked into them and couldn't fine any for a 1 barrel carb. Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

 

It starts up every morning with no problems but when I shut it off when it's warm it won't turn back on until it gets cool again.

 

Maybe your fuel is getting heated up by the engine while it's on the way to the carb?

Try re-routing your fuel line away from any warm / hot engine components (like the valve cover).

 

Stock exhaust? Is the flapper in the exhaust manifold **** shut? How long has this gone on?
-Dave

 

When it won't restart can you see the accelerator shot when you pump the carb? -Dave

 

Vapor lock does not exist in the intake manifold or carburetor float bowl. It exists only in the fuel line between the vacuum side of the fuel pump and the fuel tank outlet. If you did have vapor lock you would not be getting sufficient fuel to the carburetor for the engine to run properly.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ing-fuel-gets-hot.686472/page-2#post-11040648

If fuel is getting to the carb and intake, you're not suffering from vapor lock. You don't clearly state if your engine is running or not, is hard to start, or if you just noticed that fuel hitting the hot surface of the intake manifold is turning into fuel vapor. Which is what it's going to do when the engine is at operating temperature. If it's a fuel percolation problem in the carb then adding or making an insulator between the carb and intake should help. As will making sure that the manifold heat valve is working properly. Also make sure that the fuel line between the pump and the carb isn't routed too closely to the exhaust manifold, heater hoses or other high temperature areas.

 

Okay well it starts up easy when its cold but once shut off it won't turn on, it cranks and cranks if I look down the throat of the carb and squirt fuel in, it automatically turns to a vapor. I can't turn it on unless I pour a somewhat large amount of gas down the carb and keep my foot on the pedal all the way down. It is a stock exhaust manifold. Why would I relocate fuel lines if I'm getting fuel thru the line and bowl.

 

Once It gets started it will keep running, it's just hard to start it after its warm

 

IF YOUR CARB CAME EQUIPPED WITH A (BOWL VENT), THIS WILL LOOK LIKE A RUBBER DISK SHAPED FLAP MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE CARB FLOAT BOWL. THE FLAP NEEDS TO BE OPEN AT CLOSED THROTTLE. WHEN A HOT ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN, THE FUEL BOILS IN THE CARB FLOAT BOWL AND THE VAPOR FLOODS THE ENGINE. THIS CAUSES A HARD HOT ENGINE RESTART. WHEN THE VENT IS OPEN THIS ALLOWS THE FUEL VAPOR TO GO INTO THE ATMOSPHERE OR IN LATER YEAR CARS TO A CHARCOAL CANNISTER FILTER. IF YOUR CARB ISNT EQUIPPED WITH THIS, THE ADVISE CLAYMART GIVES IS RIGHT ON!

 

How is your Timing???

 

You mean a fuel bowl vent? That's all I think your talking about because there isn't no rubber flap, can you show me a picture of one?

 

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/att...-holley-carb-primary-bowl-vent-top-4548-2.jpg

Dispensing fuel vapors to the atmosphere probably get you some jail time in the emissions era.
But it helped with hot start issues from fuel percolation

 

Had somewhat same problem with my SBF. Found out the elect. fuel pump was putting out almost 9 PSI of pressure. Installed a fuel regulator and set for about 3 PSI and problem solved.

 

What type of carb do you have for your six? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be with the Holley 1904 on my 55 F-100. Lowered the float just below the halfway point in the bowl-no more problems starting when hot. I came to the conclusion that with the float level being high, it was allowing fuel to spill over into the manifold and flooding the motor during shut down.

 

Try blocking the heat p***age in the intake manifold. Any pumping of the throttle when it's hot will make things worse. Just open the throttle about 1/2 way and hit the starter. No pumping.

 

I take it some of you are not familiar with the small Ford six.

The intake manifold is part of the head. There are no heat p***ages. It is not connected to the exhaust manifold.

There is no flapper valve in the exhaust.

 

Gary,

All capital letters, on the Internet, equates to shouting.

It is early, and I have a headache. Please stop.

 

Sorry was thinking about the 223's I've owned.

Maybe something in the ignition system getting hot and not liking it?

-Dave

 

Gas is SUPPOSED to turn to vapor in the intake manifold.

That's the whole purpose of having a carburator: Vaporise the fuel to provide a homogenous and ~stoiciometric air / fuel mixture.

 

I have one of the newer 70s model carburetors, a Holley 1946. Idk Now it's not doing it at all. I let it warm up and there's no problem Now, I just turn the key and it starts right up? Imma try again later just to make sure its working but thats weird. How should I run this carburetor? It's a rebuilt carburetor but when I give it some gas it jitters, what should I adjust? I'm not use to single barrel carbs. It's my first one and I don't wanna mess with it till I know what to do. Lol I also wanna do it by ear, should it idle more lean or rich? What do y'all think? Please don't give me ugly comments lol thanks

 

"Whadaya in for?"
"Stalking and attempted murder....You??"
"Illegal bowl vent. Doin' 30 to life."

 

Well it appears that at least some Ford I-6s used a heat valve to direct some heat to the bottom of the intake manifold.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35297&stc=1&d=1302583255

Looks like some of them also used a thick, insulator style base gasket between the carb and intake manifold.

 

Ford trucks use the big six, not the small six, used in cars, Broncos, and early Econolines.

The attached picture is the big six.

 

On the topic of one barrel carburetors on the Ford small six: Don't run one.

Find your local air cooled VW specalist and buy a used Weber 32/36 two barrel for cheap. I got one for $50.

Put it on with an adapter from cl***icinlines.com.

I can give you the jet specs. Some suppliers sell them individually.

That, and a late-model Duraspark II distributor and module from the bone yard, and you have 40 extra HP.

Depending on the bone yard, that might be $40.

 

gimpy, please forgive me, if It wasn't cross country a Tylenol and warm milk would be headed your way. see- i am old and small writing causes me to squint and gives me a headache. don't get so upset over trivial issues, it causes headaches and life is too short!

 

This is so apparent, that i didn't want to be the one who pointed it out. Fluid will not burn. Gas will.

 

You know that you can zoom the display on your beowser, right?

If it is a PC, hold down the CTRL key (keyboard lower left), and hit the + sign. The - sign reverses it.

If it is a Mac, use the Command ley, and the +.

Better?

 

Damn smart Alick, Google bus ridding, computer nerds. Ruining the city for people to proud to work.

 

Yup. Glad I'm not one of them.

 

Fuel percolation is the likely culprit. High underhood temps expand the fuel in the float bowl, it "boils over" putting raw gas into the intake manifold. when this happens the fuel level in the float bowl goes down, opening the inlet valve, residual pressure in the line refills the bowl, which heats up and expands again, putting more fuel in the the manifold. After two or three cycles you are trying to start a flooded engine. A quick fix is to lower the level of fuel in the float bowl by adjusting the float level a bit lower than factory 2 or 3/32nds can make a lot of difference. Fabricate a heat shield under the float bowl to help lower the temp of gas in the bowl. And ***ume you are starting a flooded car when you hot start it. SLOWLY push the gas pedal to the floor do not pump the gas, hold at WOT before and during engaging the starter. Have some one observe your exhaust when you start hot. If you have black smoke for a bit that clears as the engine runs, that indicates an over rich (flooded) condition at start.