Safety be damned, I just took the family for their first ride around the block (subdivision, 25mph). It. Was. AWESOME. Car did great, temp stayed good. Once I get the brakes adjusted and the brake lights working, I'm cruising...
Got underneath to get the brakes adjusted. Instead of the single adjuster like most drum brakes, each drum has 4 adjustment cams that push the corner of each shoe towards the drum. Kind of finicky, but allows you to fine tune the contact between each shoe and the drum. Each adjuster cam has a flat to grab with a wrench, and a lock nut to lock it down once adjusted. Not too bad on the rears, but the front bottom adjuster on front brake drums is frusteratingly placed right behind one of the ball joints. I ordered a 3/4 offset wrench that will hopefully allow me to grab the nut, but hell if I know how I'm going to get that thing adjusted without pulling the whole damn drum apart. I got each wheel adjusted pretty close, but neglected to use feeler gauges. Just adjusted each cam in until the wheel locked, then backed off just a bit until the wheel unlocked. Good enough for government work right? WRONG. Car pulls nasty to the left. I think I got the left and right front drums adjusted just a bit too far off. I'm close, but I'm going to go back in and use the feeler gauge method if I can. Took the car for another shakedown run afterwards. Thing is running really well. I'm getting the hang of shifting the un-synchronized trans.
Thanks guys. Right now I'd like to get it running and driving well enough to take the wife on a date or the fam out for ice cream once before the snow flies here in Ohio. Then go through the brakes, suspension, and electrics more thoroughly this winter. Next year I want to restore this to semi-daily driver status. I don't see any reason not to. Had a great phone call from my wife's uncle a few days ago. He'd heard that we had it running and saw pictures of my boys in it, and was so proud that we'd given it the attention and love it needed. Said that the car began overheating about 20 YEARS ago, and nobody was able to figure it out. He was absolutely delighted to hear that we'd finally solved the mystery and gotten the car back on the road. Working on this car and driving it is so much more rewarding because of the story and the legacy.
Finally had a chance to take a look at the electrics on the car with a family member who's much better with electrical systems than I am. After pulling the fuse panel off and cleaning it, most of the lights started working. We found that many of the bulbs were replaced with 12V versions at some point in time which also didn't help matters. After putting the correct 6V bulbs in, we were able to get everything working. Unfortunately the only brake light is in the center of the trunk lid while the tail lights only work for running and turn signals. I'm looking to replace them with 6V LED's, hopefully that'll give me better light output and less current draw on the old system. Anyways, with the lights figured out and the engine running I was able to take it on it's first voyage out of the neighborhood. Got it into 3rd gear and up to about 50mph. First impressions say that the front suspension and steering linkage needs some attention. The car wallows pretty badly, and while I know it won't be tight like a new car, I want to make sure it's safe. When I was adjusting the front brakes I noticed a lot of play in the wheel, so I'll check wheel bearings, tie rod ends and ball joints. But I feel confident taking the car on short trips. The synchronized trans is hard to get used to. The 1-2 shift requires double-clutching and I've yet to get the hang of doing it smoothly. Took my oldest son to the playground in it last night and got two compliments before we even got out of the parking lot. The thing definitely turns heads!
Is the clutch sticking? Upshifts should be easy, the 3-2 downshift should be easy if you give it time, the only non synchro is the 2-1 down shift but you never need 1 except for taking off. Check the shock absorbers, they may need to be filled with jack oil if they are lever action Delco. If they are tubular you should be able to replace them. I doubt they are tubular but I do believe Nash was one of the first to adopt them, so you never know. You should check over the front end and renew any worn parts, and get an alignment. But, don't expect too much. They are not as precise as a modern car and the big steering wheel exaggerates any play. Your tail lights must have 2 filament bulbs (turn signal/tail light). You should be able to connect the turn signals to the brake lights, on the turn signal switch.
The 1-2 upshift is difficult, and I have to double-clutch. The 2-3 is fine. I was told that the transmission wasn't synchronized, but I don't know definitively. Shock absorbers are tubular (spring over shocks at every corner). I'd like to find a modern shock that's the same length and has the same mounting and retrofit them. Tail lights are indeed dual filament but they're only wired to running and turn signals. I'd have to do some rewiring to retain BOTH turn signal and brake light. Probably have to add a relay or two.
What kind of turn signal switch do you have? The brake lights will need to be wired thru the turn signal switch so signals work when the brakes are on, check the wiring to the turn signal switch. By the way I THINK that is the way they are wired but could be wrong. I was wrong about the brake adjustment, the wiring could be non standard as well. Are the turn signals OEM or add on? Do you have a wiring diagram?
If they are tubular shocks try asking your local NAPA or other good parts store. You never know your luck.
PS- Awesome car and I'm enjoying the fact you're patiently learning/working your way thru each issue.
The turn signals were aftermarket, but from the early 50's. I think turn signals were optional on this model and it didn't come with them from the factory. Brake light was the one mounted centrally on the trunk.
Thanks for the kind words. There's so much more to learn, but I've been keeping a journal of everything I've learned and done. That way when one of my sons likely inherits this car they can go back and reference. I'm really excited for when they're old enough to start working on it with me.
surprised no one mentioned gas tank earlier in discussion; for sure drop, clean, flush, & seal. Had to replace tank in much newer '67. Use air hose and blow out fuel line. Looks like a good hot steam clean underneath called for ( pic of brake drum ). Check fuel and brake lines for leaks. Any rubber bushings in suspension ( or anywhere ) should be replaced - will be rotted. Great looking car - I would add mini shirts in back and "dark green" out chrome around windows. & modern tires like you said.
Sounds like your NASH rear lighting is simi;ar to MoPars or the era. Center mounted stop and outboard running lights. Many of these got after market signal switches that added dual filiment pigtails to the front park lamps and rear outboard lamps. A simple 5 wire switched was used (power in from the flasher, 1 wire for r front, one for r rear, one for left front and one for left rear. This system leaves you center brake lamp intact. You can use the same switch, add some auxiliary lamps (I used motorcycle stalks mounted to the splash pan) to use for signals, then re wire the outboard lamps to be running and brake lights. So all three fixtures light with braking. You simply power the auxiliary lights with the existing leads for the signals, and tap into the brake lamps to power both bright leads in the outer fixtures. What you don't want to happen is for the center brake lamp to flash with the signals. typically a 7 wire switch is used that is powered through the brake light switch. The above to aux lamps for signals is by far the quickest and easiest way to upgrade with what you have now.
Fuel system seems to be holding strong. The in-line filters haven't accumulated any more sediment, and I'll probably run the correct hardline from stem to stern at some point. Still questioning the trans. I have a hard time believing that a 1947 transmission would be synchronized, but that 1-2 shift doesn't like to happen without a double clutch. I have a hard time finding neutral on the column shifter on the fly. Maybe it's just user-error...
Great old Nash.... you will have a lot of fun in that one !! Did you mean UN-synchronized ? Can't think of any American automobile that was still un-synchronized in '47 The problem may be the shift linkage(s) adjustment and/or worn bushings or elongated holes in any of the levers; plus what you had said about neutral being hard to find. From Motors Repair Manual 1956 Specific Adjustment for '46-48 Nash xmsn. (the photo didn't scan very well)
Practically all cars had synchromesh transmissions at that time. They had synchros on second and top gear but not on low gear because low didn't need synchros. The 1-2 shift was synchromesh, the 2-3 was synchromesh, and the 3-2 was synchromesh. Only the 2-1 shift was non synchro and you never needed to shift down to low when the car was moving, at least in theory. A roundabout way of explaining that something is wrong. Transmission dry of oil? Linkage worn or out of adjustment or needs lubrication? Clutch dragging? I can't tell from here but it is probably something fairly minor. O ya reverse was not synchro either. You are only supposed to shift into low or reverse when the car is stopped.
Yeah I meant UN-synchronized. I'm guessing the shifter mechanism might need adjusted. Clutch seems to work just fine, no dragging whatsoever. This is the first 3 on the tree vehicle I've owned, so I'm not sure if it feels the way it is supposed to. I'll check my service manual when I get home.
Column shift was accurate when new but got sloppy when worn. You may need to go over it, replace worn pins and bushings, weld up and redrill holes worn oval, and adjust to factory specs. Then the shift should be easy and accurate as long as you don't hurry it. It may only need cleaning, oiling and adjusting. After all it has been off the road a long time. Your car was made to to practically all its driving in high gear. Once you got rolling you would only shift down for a very steep hill. The average motorist didn't like shifting gears any more than they do now, but there were no automatics. So they built torquey engines with a wide power band, you can slow down to 10 MPH or less in high gear, floor it, and accelerate to 80 MPH without stalling or bucking.
Talking with my wife's uncle, when her grandfather was alive, he used to take off in 2nd and only use 2nd and 3rd. I've tried this and while it's doable, I much prefer using 1st gear. I'll get under the car and see if anything looks out of place, then see if I can get it back in adjustment. Either way, now that the lights work I'm going to start driving the car semi-regularly. I only work 3mi away and will be driving it in there a few times a week.
You said trouble shifting from low to second. But where does the problem occur? If you are grinding going into low at rest, the likely culprit is slight clutch drag which causes the input shaft to rotate. No enough to move the car but enough to keep first protesting its selection. You can confirm this by selecting second, then going into first. Momentarily shifting to second engages the synchros which stops the rotation of the input shaft allowing first to engage without grinding. If your clutch is dragging you need to shorten the rod that moves the throw out fork, this will****ure the pressur plate forks are fully released. If you are having trouble finding the neutral gate, then Rusty's advice about bushing, pins and holes in the linkage is probably the fix. If you are getting grinding going into second that I would suspect the second gear synchros. This will also show up in the test above if it does not reduce grinding going to first after selecting second. You might also want to look at the rear motor mounts. If they are badly deteriorated, they can cause the shift linkage to bind from misalignment.
Looks like your boyz are diggin the old Nash or did you promise them ice cream? Lol at the look on their faces. Check for worn parts or parts that are rusted together. Sometimes part of the mechanism is inside the steering column and there is an oil hole under the hood to oil the mechanism.
No grinding at all. The issue I'm having is that the shifter won't physically move into 2nd. I push it, it doesn't grind but there is a resistance. Double clutch, and it slides right in. I don't grind going into low at rest either. Goes into reverse just fine, and the 2-3 shift works fine.
Check the engine/transmission mounts. If the rubber is detiorated badly, it can let the engine rotate under power which can put a bind on the shifting linkages/mechanism. When you "double clutch" the engine rocks back, easing the binding & letting it shift easier. Related to that is the adjustment issue as previously discussed.
Based on that I should be able to simply leave the clutch in long enough for the engine to rock back and it should go in. But it just hangs up and wont go in gear. Really hoping it's a simple linkage adjustment and not something more catastrophic. The more I think about it, the more I think it might be a synchro. Because I can put it in 2nd if the car is at a stop. Honestly I need to drive it more to get a clearer picture of the issue.
Well I couldn't help myself. It's 75 and sunny here in Ohio, and I decided to go home and get the old girl and bring her back to work. Takes off pretty well in 2nd.
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