I'm thinking some thing quick and fun. everyone wants to hit the road asap me included. i can't run until noon so i have time to kill. having some good eats while waiting to run or before hitting the road is kind of what I'm thinking about. we don't want to hold any one up.
I think with a little bit of planning, we should be able to make it work. Good food one day would be a welcome change!
How about a wisconin themed lunch. Brats cooked in beer. Some good cheese. some corn on the cob. Wash it all down with some good kringle made just east of the track. Too bad we cant have some good beer from our local breweries.
hows everyones dw cars coming. i got mine out this past weekend. im planning on driving the coupe to bowling green ky. for the hot rod reunion. its about 500 miles one way from home. that should do for a shake down run i think. i plan on having the trailer and all the stuff i would normally carry. im going to try a few things like slowing down the blower to reduce heat. i might add a oil cooler also. i figured a good long trip would tell me if they work or if i need to come up with another plan. if the slower blower speed works then i can switch pulleys at the track back to the small upper.
I don't see how changing the blower drive ratio will affect heat noticeably. When you're cruising, the blower is operating mostly in a vacuum. There is a little drag from the internal friction, but I doubt it's noticeable compared to the rest of the engine. The oil cooler will probably help. the idea of taking a long trip with the car, several months before Drag Week is excellent! Bring some spare valve train parts, if only to prevent problems with the valvetrain. You never need to use spare parts that you actually have with you, according to Murphy.
jim i run the blower at 7 over. on the dyno my manifold temp was 240. two years ago on dw when i removed the blower i could hardly get heat in the engine. so i was thinking of taking some drag off the engine so it wouldnt have to work so hard. less load less heat. now that i put in a ***an oil pump the valve train issues have been resolved. i have oil and more oil now. i had to put restrictors in the deck to keep the valve covers from filling up. the roller rockers needed 35 lbs at idle min. and they just werent getting it. i had taken the 340 hp pump farther than it was capable. now it idles with 45lbs. 65 at 2200 rpm cruising. i do have extra rockers and shafts just in case.
When you're running the car on a dyno, making boost, there is a lot of load and heat from the blower. Maybe you could do some cruising testing on the dyno, and see what happens to the temps?
btw I swapped pulleys from 15% to 3% over and didn't see any change in temp driving around, it's always hot. Runs around 220-240 in town on a hot AZ day in the summer.
Wow thats hot. I thought i had it bad at 210-220 at its hottest. That 240 manifold temp was at cruise conditions. So im really pre heating the air going in the engine. My thoughts were this incoming hot air is making the water temp hot. The nice thing about the fast xfi-2 is it stores multiple tunes. I want to do one tune for the street and one for the track. I hope i see some relief slowing down the blower. Maybe my blower is tighter. I run 7 over and get 15 lbs of boost at wot.
i got the coupe out for some check out miles. with the blower set at 4 over and the oil cooler on the water temp was right at 180. that was without the trailer on the back. i drove about 125 miles and all was good. i retorqed the heads ran the lash then checked the spring pressures all was good. the car is dry with no leaks. i loaded the trailer up for the drive to bowling green. i think the coupe is ready to go. it sure is hard going to work with a upcoming car vacation.
We are about one month away from dw. Hows everyones cars coming along. I made mods to my trailer last week. The slicks will be mounted outside the trailer for more room inside it. I plan on going to the hamb drags using it as a test run. At the hamb drags i plan on dialing it in to run 10.0 as my cl*** has a 10.0 index. My crew member is coming also to get more familiar with the car and to get used to all the driving. It should be a good warm up for next months action.
I"ve been making progress, too. New mufflers to keep Mike happy (and me, too), slightly bigger seats (not sure if they're big enough for Ron's ****?) and a few other comfort things. Plan is to be really stupid, and drive the car 1400 miles from home to St Louis, then go racing! 3.00 gears to get there, and 4.11s on Drag Week itself. I also ordered a new converter, just because the other one is getting old and we've heard some strange noises, and seen some metal in the trans fluid. So if it shows up in a week or two, I'll go through the transmission, and hopefully all will be well. I figured I have about 30 p***es on the car, and over 4000 miles, so I have a reasonable chance of making the long trip. We'll see what happens.
I forgot to mention the coupe is going to the dream cruise next week. Woodward becomes a parking lot. I will be testing the cooling system to the max. Over the next few weeks there will be a flurry of activity here as final preparations are made. Jim i can give you a hand swapping gears if you need a extra set of hands.
thanks! I think Steve and I can handle most of it, but we'll see what happens. Just went into town for a little errand run, it puked in the walmart parking lot. Hmmmm....it's only in the low 90s today.
Jim I do have a 66 and 67 buick switch pitch 400 ******s for core parts but only one converter if you need.
when my car ran that hot with a thermostat it would ruin it. i got rid of the thermostat and put in a morosso restrictor and the problem was solved. i have a pressure tester if you need it.
Wish I was going again this year but got some things here at the house that need tended to. racer-x I'll be at the HAMB drags also. look forward to seeing you there.
Jim if I remember correctly you run a switch pitch convertor correct? Who do you call to order a new one? Do you use the smaller diameter 300 Turbine convertor? What real world stall do you see with your convertor?
Junior stock i look forward to meeting you to. I will have the orange 31 chrysler coupe. It should be easy to spot. The plan is to arrive around 5pm friday to get teched in.
I'm running a switch pitch 400, gets about 1500 in "low" and about 3000 in "high" from the modified ST300 converter. I've been messing with these converters for almost 35 years, they're fun. Mine is coming from TriShield Performance, we'll see what happens.
Just when things are going great something always happens. I just had one of the garages resided. They cleaned up ok. I have found several nails hiding in the gravel driveway. Today my p*** front tire found one. Im not too happy. So i figured i would get the tire plugged and make things better than before. I changed the stems over to the bolt on kind. The regular tire stems are good for only 125mph. Maybe the car was telling me something.
I don't see the name Austin in the allowed "G***er" car categories and I can't believe they would keep me out because I chopped the top! I guess I will ask them but sort of looks like we are out! But then so is the Jim Oddy car and Big John Mazmanian's Football ...RIGHT? Guess we are in good company...LOL!
The rules are funky....I have no idea how they came up with them, but they are what they are. My car is B cl*** all the way, except it has a blower, which bumps it into A cl***. Yet they say that A cl*** is for really radical cars. Huh...I have a blower, because it lets me go fast without having a radical car! Brian is running Street Eliminator with his blown coupe. I probably should be too, if I want to be compe***ive.
Rules for this year forward changed and they do allow Austins now. But they did change the rule about chopping. RULES FOR A/GAS BODY •Must be a ’28 to ’68 American car or truck or a Fordson, Thames, Anglia, or Austin. •No convertibles or roadsters. •May be steel or fibergl***. Replicas must be faithful to the original car. •OE or reproduction fenders must be used in the stock location. •May not use post-’60s-appearing lettering or paint graphics. •No wings, spoilers, or air dams allowed. •Hoodscoops must appear like those used in the early ’60s. No cowl-induction hoods, no snorkel scoops, no Pro Stock scoops. •Any composite windows must appear stock and use stock exterior moldings. No window supports visible from outside the car. •The body may not be altered from the stock shape. No chopping, no sectioning, no narrowing, no pinching, no stretching, no sloping of the nose, no quarter-panel moving or reshaping, no wheel tubs protruding outside the stock exterior body lines. Radiused rear wheel openings are allowed and altered-wheelbase cars may have relocated wheel openings.
I emailed them suggesting maybe they relax the body mod rules on the new AA/Gas (supercharged) cl*** as long as it was an appropriate mod for a mid to late 60's era g***er.
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