TECH-- Ford Flathead cooling revitilization

The volume doesn't really decrease. It stays the same, but since the T-stat is in the way as a restriction, pressure increases below the T-stat. But it's irrelevant anyway as it's beyond the engine where it can no longer absorb heat...

More flow = more pressure AND more volume. The revised impeller moves more water per revolution, so volume does increase - like sticking an 8-71 blower on instead of a 4-71 blower - more volume per revolution. If it has the same size restriction as the old impeller (T-stat), the pressure will increase as well.

 

The 37 upper tank hose fittings are reduced.Were the 53 merc thermostat housing larger or the same as the 37's?

 

For all the guys whose eyes are as bad as mine or worse:

This is a quote of the original post.

I have consolidated all the great advice i got via different pieces, threads and people on the HAMB in addressing my Flathead cooling issues into one tech post. Here it goes...REVITILIZING THE COOLING SYSTEM ON FORD FLATHEAD:

1) First of all, my 1940 Ford Pickup w/ a 1948 59AB flathead ran good, but ran too hot. After time, temp would always shoot up too high, system would begin to boil, etc. By the way, here's a pic of the truck (and dog who likes to get in pictures...



2) Initially I tried to service what i had without replacing anything....

- flushed out the system and then ran it up to temp a couple times running a vinegar mixture for a bit to help flush out years of build-up.

- flushed and filled system with distilled water.

- also burped the system by running it and then cracking the water temp guage sensors on top the heads, to ensure no pockets of water were trapped.

STILL RAN HOT

3) Then i pulled the distributor and found the timing was too retarded. Bench dialed the initial to 4 degrees and backed out the brake advance adjustor all the way. After back on the truck running, I dialed in the advance by run testing it, and turning in the adjuster until it wouldnt ping on full throttle.

RAN MUCH BETTER, BUT STILL GOT TOO WARM ON HILLS AND IN TRAFFIC.

(by the way, i was validating real temps by inserting a real, trusted thermometer in the radiator)

4) So.... now I went through a full service of the cooling system:
- First of all I noticed when taking apart the system that it didnt have any thermostats. Many people believe that removing tstats help cooling, but i dont believe that. In this case, a properly working tstat helps cooling, as it backs up water flow enough to ensure that water fills the p***ages and thus grabs more heat from the motor.



- I removed the radiator and took it to the shop and had new cores build and put in. Instead of the stock 4 p***es, i had him do 5 p*** cores. Also had them keep the crank hole, bracket, etc.. for who knows why... Here i tried to take a pic showing the 5 rows:



- Next I installed Speedway Motors water pumps. These have improved impeller design, as well as improved bearings. On stockers, you couldnt adjust the belts tight. With the new bearings, you can... and it results in better pump performance. Here's a Speedway pump:



- Next i installed new 160 degree thermostats. Before installing, first I tested functionality using the stove w/ water and the trusted thermometer (I strongly recommend this



- Then I drilled two small holes on each side, to help in burping the system, improving perfomance.



- Then i installed the tstats, and hoses that i flushed out.

- Filled the system with distilled water (normal water leaves behind minerals to build up in system when water evaporates) and a bottle of Water Wetter (supposed to improve efficiency of water, and has a lubricant in it.) I dont use coolant, as i dont have freezing risk and water is more efficient at cooling.

- Burped the system that same way described above.

- By the way-- before all this, I pulled the water temp sensors w/ guage and tested with heat and trusted tstat. Confirmed that on my guage, mid line = 160 degrees and hot line = 200 degrees

- Done, and it works *****EN. Car likes to stay right around 160-170 at all times. Runs cool in bumper to bumper, climbing, etc.

Hope this helps some. Again thanks to different HAMBers for giving me these different pieces of advise that i consolidated here.

-scott noteboom