Have read many posts on here with people using the 1965-66 289/302 rad in a hotrod. I bought, modded and shoehorned in my 30 Dodge. Can't find many posts now on the Hamb or Web about this topic; yet, I know I have seen tons over the years. Anyone please chime in here with comments and suggestions. She is running a little hot and want to see what others have to say about it. After 15 minutes of idling, she goes to 200 and above, and I am hoping to keep her around 185-90 tops Pork
My dad has run them in two different cars. Both were open engined hot rods so maybe that helps. What engine are you using? What type of fan set up? Do you have a shroud?
Pork I use them, they work fine for a small block. What are you cooling with it? Most of the guys use what is called a desert cooler its a 4 row, but I have even used the 6 cylinder rad with good success.
It's more than just a radiator that needs to work. You haven't mentioned the fan, any shrouding, pumps or anything. In fact, you haven't even told us what the engine is.
It's a stock 350 with a standard shorty, cast pump. The fan I'm using really pushes the air on the oppisite side of the rad (towards the block). The engine is a 350 4 bolt pickup block alum Edel single Quadroslob with electronic gm ignition. The fan is from an early Ford Taurus that is electric and I mounted her on the front pushing threw and falling on the block. The shroud is a perfect one peice fit that matches the rad perfectly. It blows like the dickens threw, and the rad is full with no thermostat in. I was hoping it never went over 185, but I am not getting that result. Once it goes to 205, I shutit down and let the fan cycle. I don't wannarun tehblockpast 205-10.
200 isn't really "hot" either. It won't boil over till 250 in a pressurized system with 25% anti freeze. Idle it for 30 mins and see where it goes. Does it still climb? How far at what rate? Take it around the block and see where it's at. Did it drop? A pusher fan is probably the least desirable of any system you could choose. Air moves naturally from high pressure to fill a low pressure zone. You need to generate a pressure greater than 14.7 ish with your fan while forcing it thru the tubes to get it thru the radiator. With a puller and shroud Any air moved out needs to be replaced and naturally rushes thru the tubes. After a particular speed, a pusher fan actually blocks air flow.
im running one in my 51 plym w/a 318. fought like hell at first w/ over heating and then found my shroud was regurgitating hot air back thru the rad over and over again (piss poor design). w/ your fan on the front, that shouldn't be your problem,( post pics for us) I would start w/ putting in a T-stat and making sure the fan is pushing air thru ALL the rads core
I have one purchased from O'Reiileys in my modified. It works fine and will not overheat in 90F weather at idle in traffic. It easily fits inside the '33 Comercial grill shell. highly recommended and around100$.
Try putting a T stat in it they cool better with one. There are only two times when you run a small block Chevy without a t stat. One is when you are racing and running s restrictor instead and the other is when you are 8 miles the other side of Pig Snarf, Missouri its 11:37 Pm and your T stat is stuck. Then you remove it so you can get home and not have to sleep out there with a banjo playing blind kid and his inbred brothers/cousins.
1. Fan should be on the shroud to pull air through the radiator. 2. Engine is designed to have a thermostat as part of the cooling system. How about a picture of the vehicle and engine compartment area's .....
LOL I got the 355 in the Pusher up to 135 in the Mc Donalds in Joplin on year at the HAMB Drags, I pull out and run it up to 65 for a mile or so and cooled it off. At the track I opened the hood and discovered that dirt daubers had built nests in both of my "electric fans". They can build a nest over night and it will sure keep a fan from spinning. LOL A little known fact, an SBC will run a consistent 210 and never hurt a thing. The later model cars all run tat temp and they were running that temp before the LS. That said I like to keep mine cool if I can and it doesn't run well until it hits the 185-195 range..
I have one in my model T. I haven't run it yet so no first hand knowledge. But I tend to agree with the other guys. Put the thermostat back in, maybe show us some pictures of the fan & shroud set up. And up to about 210* really isn't that hot. I like what 31vicky said, just idle it for awhile & see what it does. Make sure your cooling system is completely burped.
Had a SBC ('67 Impala SS) that had a stumble when I first took off... no stat. Put in an 180* stat and stumble-be-gone. It was running too cool.
When I got my '34 in '82, it had some kind of mid sixties Ford radiator in it. Works good enough that I've had it recored twice. I sure wouldn't sweat a temp of 205 to 210.
I have used one for a LONG time in front of a BBC. It was very marginal in the early stages. (3500 stall converter, 4.11's, and pusher fan) Installed Zip's water pump riser, fan, built a shroud w/puke tank and it stayed under 200 w/ 3.55 gears. This was the same old radiator I bought for $25 at a radiator shop. Recently the core gave out and I replaced it with an aluminum version from Uncle Cooling on the Bay. Local guy at A-1 Radiator moved the upper hose and I was back in action. I am using the same shroud so far and have not yet relocated the puke tank. Runs just above the 180 thermostat level. Definitely worth a try. Some of the aluminum versions have a square upper tank and others come with angled corners like the stock shape above. Know what will fit or have the tank ends cut like I did.
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