I just completed a 4K mile trip to the west coast and back in the 52 Buick and noticed I had oil all over the rear bumper, gas tank, and generally the rear section of the car. It has a Ford 9" with new axles and bearings right before this trip. I found a pinion seal leak, a leak at the center section, and the drivers side axle seal. I think the vent is too small and building pressure on the highway and that is what may have caused the leak at the pinion seal since I also replaced it when putting in the new axles. I also put in new axle seals. However, the new axle bearings had O-rings and I'm wondering if I really should have put in the new seals since these bearing might be lubed with the rearend oil since the p***enger side bearing is now turning rough. I plan to replace both of them. After all this background, now my questions: 1. What is the best brand bearing to buy? 2. If the new bearing comes with the O-Ring do I need a new seal? Thanks for any help. Larry
The Best bearings today are Timken USA. The Best Oil Seals are National Seals. What did you install for a housing vent?
Thanks for the reply AHotRod. The axle vent was already in the housing. It is approx. a 5/16" hex head bolt with a hole in the side of the hex and a connecting hole up threw the center of the bolt, both approx. 3/32". Seems to me it should be larger.
Have a buddy with a 34 Chevy that had the same issues with his Ford 9 inch. Sounds like you and he had the same vent. After many bearing failures and leaky seals we figured it out vent too small! Installed one like AHot Rod has suggested and two years and many miles later no more issues.
Looks like I'm definitely changing that vent and going to Timken bearings/National seals. A couple local fellows also suggested the Timken/National combo so it sounds like the ones to get. Thanks for the replies.
My 9" has 702 sealed axle brgs so I doubt they're lub'd with gear oil. What are the "O" rings for? Mine has seals/ brgs only
Some axle bearings have a groove and "O" ring around the bearing that seals to the inside diameter of the housing when the axle is installed. The bearing is the sealed type and the "O" ring keeps gear oil from leaking around the bearing. Some lube on the "O" ring helps so you don't cut it when you push the bearing into the housing.
That's what I use then a hoes that runs up above the fitting and a stock ford vent on the end of that. ^^^^^ Timken makes a good bearing as does federal mogul. Use a stock bearing unless the bearing has spun on the axle and a stock seal. If the bearing has spun on the axle you will either need a new/different axle or an axle saver bearing. If you have popped the pinion seal be sure and mark the yolk nut prior to removal so you can get it back in the same place or buy a new crush sleeve. I am just across town, I am gone for the weekend but if you need a hand when I get back let me know.
Do you happen to have a part number on that vent? 7/16-20 thread vent seems to be eluding my parts guy. Also, there are 2 common types of bearings. A sealed bearing that uses a grease seal in the housing, and a "set 20" type that has the o-ring built into it and uses no grease seal in the housing.
The set20 (Timken part #) tapered roller has o-rings, and a seal outboard of the bearing. They are lubed by gear oil, so no internal seal. The axle shafts need to have a polished seal surface to use these. Aftermarket axles are generally made to work with these, but most factory axles are not. Axles that came with the permanently lubed bearing with the housing tube seal are rough machined outboard of the bearing. The set20 were factory on the heavy duty (station wagon, E-150, F-150) 9"s '74-'86.
Well, since I had to pull the axles due to seal leaks I went ahead and pulled the third member also. Took it to Mike Hill who does many 9" rears to have him check out that everything is OK. He tightened the backlash a little and put in a new pinion seal and said everything else was fine. I had some difficulty finding the Timken bearings but finally got one from AutoZone and they ordered another one for me, the Set10 style that uses a seal behind it. I then had to go to Advance Auto to get the National seals and had to order them also. ******, the bearing on the p***. side was just rough to the feel and since I have it all apart I decided to change the bearings. The bearing only has about 4K miles on it. I think the undersized vent caused the seal problem as they were new also when the new axles were installed. Probably the 75/80 mph speeds caused too much pressure due to the small vent. I could see where oil sprayed out of the vent. I've heard many stories from friends who have had bearings fail within a few thousand miles and I'm getting to old to do this on a routine basis. The fellow at AutoZone said their house brand is made by Timken and tried to get me to use it but I decided to stick with the Timken brand and hopefully not be doing this again soon. Crusty Nut and Relic Stew, thanks for the info on the Set10 and Set20 style of bearings and how they differ. The axles I got were from John's Industries (9inchFord.com) and they said they were Greening Brand. Since they had the o-ring I ***ume they were the Set20 style and I didn't need the seals when I put in the axles with these bearings. First time I've run across that. Crusty Nut, I was in Eureka, CA early last week on my trip and looked at a 34 Plymouth and 57 Buick a fellow had for sale. Thanks again for the input.
Crusty Nut- No I did not buy them although I thought it was a decent deal. Just too expensive to haul them both to the midwest and I've already got too many projects. If you want the info on them just PM me and I'll give it to you.
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