Technical Home made undercoating

I think I've found a pretty decent way to make undercoating. Lowes carries a rubberized roofing patch in a red can called leak stopper $16. I got about 6 oz out of it and thinned it with lacquer thinner. By the time I got done it was probably about 2 to 1 if not 1 to 1. I got it almost thin enough to shoot out of a Schultz gun. Then I added about 3 oz of black oil based enamel from the local farm supply, I think it was around $25 a gallon its been here a while. Then about 2 oz of urethane hardner. It came out to almost a full Schultz gun can. I sprayed an old tail gate and let it sit over night and by the time I got home from work that evening it was set up like normal undercoating. Just guessing but you could probably mix at least 5 gallons for around $40

 

Right on, Thanks for sharing. I might have to try that.

 

Well now, whey back in the day we used tar mixed with kerosene and used a garden sprayer to apply it to the underside. Wow what a mess but the cars were in great shape many years later!

 

i am not saying it won't work.....but i i would like to see how it holds up a year from now.
laquer, rubber, oil base paint, and urethane hardener, doesn't sound like stuff that should be put together.

 

Yep I agree and it certainly stinks for a couple of months but the falcon was absolutely cherry on the underside after many years,

 

Try Henry roofing tar - made from asphalt
http://us.henry.com/roofing/protective-coatings/107-asphalt-emulsion

Also comes in spray grade ...
http://us.henry.com/roofing/protective-coatings/106-spray-grade-asphalt-roof-emulsion

 

It is a odd mixture. I have a hose that hooks to a shutz gun for inside rockers and hard places to get to. When I spray rubberized undercoating from the store I thin it a little with lacquer thinner to get it to spray right. As far as the paint and hardner it was to make sure it set up hard and not drip off when it got hot. The mix sprays,dries and smells like normal undercoating. The down the road is the question. The tailgate lays in front of my shop in the sun, I usually try to walk on it and even scuff my feet on to see how its doing, so far its holding good. This was my first attempt and somehow it worked. I am going to try it with out the paint parts because the stop leak is supposed to harden on its on. I'll update when I do it.

 

Thank's

 

These dents were done with a 14oz ball peen hammer hard enough to cave in the tail gate.

 

Mix ratio please

1 gallon of leak stopper $16
1 gallon of laquer thinner $16
1/2 gallon black enamel $12
?? of hardener $??

Does this have a shelf life, or is it mix and shoot before it turns to a brick in the can?

I'm guessing the bottom of a car, inner fenders, rockers, quarters would take about a gallon or 2, not sure how thick it goes on.

 

The mixes were in the initial post and were guesses. I just sprayed some that was just the leak stopped and lacquer thinner. I'm waiting for it to dry right now. I will give a update tomorrow. I'm ***uming it won't have a shelf life once the hardner is mixed. I just mix as needed. I just mixed about half of a shutz gun can and it more than covred my 2002 f250 tailgate that I use for experiment's. Yes its for the under side of cars it leaves a finish close a spray in bedliner.

 

Depending on car. My f250 I sprayed the frame with the bed off and partially sprayed the bottom of the bed and used a gallon at $60. It would take about 2 gallons to coat the bottom of my extended cab short bed truck with one thick coat. The hardner I bought with some paint do I have no clue on price. If what I done today sets up you won't need paint or hardner

 

Road runner have you ever used it? And will it harden up enough not to drip when it gets hot outside? Lowes carries it for $52 for 5 gallons. If it sets up it would probably work

 

Keep us updated, I'm interested in trying it. Definately don't want to get the ratio wrong, that would be some nasty stuff to have to grind back off if it didn't cure.

 

Just looked up the technical data sheet on Leak Stopper. It lists mineral spirits for clean up. Might be a better thinner if there's concerns from using laquer thinner. Would probably dry slower with mineral spirits though.

 

done many a farm truck with this mix , stinks like hell for a week or so ( and no parking in the garage !!) , but I know of several of the bodies that lasted longer than the drive train , only problem was when it got hot you had to watch were you parked as it would leave a outline on the pavement ... and if you had to weld it was a pain to clean it off !

 

Why try to create a new rustproofer with unproven results when there are plenty on the market that suit the purpose and have a history of longitivity and durability.? I would suggest saving your money in other areas.

 

Only used it for roofing before and it stays dry in direct sunlight without dripping.
Incidentally, Henry also makes specialized Automotive Undercoatings, formulated from the same asphalt emulsion as the roofing coatings....
http://us.henry.com/performance-additives/automotive-coatings/

Also found this old thread...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...use-henrys-roof-coating-on-a-car-floor.13698/

 

Its not so much about the money. I have have guns I have more money in than a few of my vehicles. Undercoating from a paint supply is $60 and its nothing but sprayable roofing cement. Nearest paint supply is s hr away. Lowes is 20 minutes.

 

24 hours later it is set up, you could handle it but its not hard like the other yet. It takes some pressure but I can cut it with my finger nail

 

I use Rustchek or similar products twice yearly on my daily drivers. These products are some sort of oil. I would not apply anything I may have to remove at some point. Also tar can dry and separate from metal and trap moisture causing the rot common on vehicles over 10 years old that had been treated with Ziebart or other tar like products

 

Exactly - especially on the underside of a car or truck, the first finish that touches bare metal should be some sort of 'etching primer' that bonds with the metal so it doesn't separate too soon.
Then you can cover it with the best stuff that adheres to and prevents the primer from degrading its bond with the metal.

 

I'm not shooting on bare metal body parts I'm shooting frame, running, inside body parts that are normally ready for undercoating. I'm a pipefitter by trade and I know when we do a underground pipe system the stuff we use to coat with is a sprayable or brushable asphalt material. I have also dug up pipes that have been buried for 20+ years that the outside is pretty much perfect. I came up with this to be used as normal undercoating would be. Its not something I would put on show car. I'm using it on my daily driver and on a 40 GMC I'm building after I paint the inside of the body panels.

 

The mixture without the paint and hardner is too soft for the undercarriage and may soften up even more with heat from the motor. If anybody tries this it would be best to mix the paint and hardner to get the chemical reaction for it to set up hard

 

Not trying to be a ****, but why bother with homemade concoctions. Rustproofing is so cheap to buy, maybe just add some cheap paint to color it so you can see where it is going as you spray. Hopefully you are wearing a respirator when you spray this toxic mess

 

Where are you even spraying this, couldnt imagine doing it in my garage or driveway. Or anywhere on my property for that matter

 

If I lived close to a paint supply that had it I probably wouldn't bother. I'm 40 to 50 miles from the nearest good paint supply. Which turns into 2 hours shot to hell because they close before I can get there after work. This is something I mixed up goofing off and it worked somehow. I'm not saying use it on a show car but then again I drive my stuff and don't have worry about getting it wet

 

Makes sense

 

http://www.ehow.com/list_5856429_types-vehicle-undercoating.html. This might be an interesting read

 

I spray it outside of my shop. I spray it out of a schutz gun it sprays just like normal rubberized undercoating and the results I'm getting its just as good. The finish is a little flatter in shine but has the same texture and hardness as what I pay $60 a gallon for.