Guys, Building my own model A frame using some pre fabbed rails, a reproduction front cross member, and an original rear cross member. I have it pretty much complete and at the point where I can primer and paint it, but am not sure what to do about the front or rear brake line tabs? I have done a lot of searching but haven't found any info or tips on this part of doing a frame. Do any of you have a couple pics of where the front or rear brake line brackets were mounted on your frames, or some measurements I could use? I have some through frame stainless fittings I could use with braided lines but that sort of doesn't fit the flavor of build I am doing. In case I am not clear I am talking about the tabs where the hard lines mount to the rubber lines. I am using a dropped A axle in front with 47 brakes, a 9 inch rear from a 70's Bronco, and will be running a 50 flathead motor. Any info or help appreciated!
The only real way to get it right is build the car first and do the brake and other lines last. Now you can put all those tabs and brackets where they belong and clear everything. If the frame material is thick enough you can drill and tap mounting holes. If thin drill a hole and use the nut insert type fasteners. Through the frame fittings are OK for getting the brake lines from inside the frame to outside for the flex hoses but some of them trap air bubbles and are hard to bleed. I tried the copper nickel brake lines on my current build and they were easier to bend and form than the steel or stainless lines.
Go ahead and paint. When it comes time to put on the brake lines you will have to grind a small spot clean and weld on the bracket, then touch up the paint. Or make a bracket that bolts on. Unless you can mock up the axles and brake lines now?
Just like aaggie said... On our roadster, we built the rolling chassis first and before the body went on added the plumbing. Cut 1.5" angle iron to make mounting tabs. Very easy. We didn't use through the frame fittings. Be good to see pics of your project...
What's wrong with using factory type Ford tabs? Ford made several styles and all of them as I remember just used a 5/16 self tapping bolt right in the frame rail. I've been doing the same treatment on most rubber hose systems as long as I can remember. For 3/16 line systems I like using the 53-56 F-100 front hoses. You can drill a hole in the rail and mount it with just the hose nut. I also read in the opening statement your going to mix new and old steel line size. Good luck with that. Personally I'd do the F-100 front brakes just to keep things simple. You should know that the volume supply of a 1/4" line is different than a 3/16 line and there in will create you an unballanced issue. The Wizzard
you really should "pre-build" the whole car, then take it apart for painting. i will guarantee if you paint the chassis, then install the body and finish the car you will have to add or change something and you will have to repaint/ touchup. pre-building in the long run saves time.
After my car was together and frame painted, I simply drilled and tapped and used stainless machine screws for line clamps and flex line tabs into the frame. Used the cuprio nickel line and rubber flex lines. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good ideas guys. I didn't have the brakes on it when I mocked it up and didn't think of it until now. I did have the car pretty much together at one point tho. Here are a couple pics of what I am doing.
Sweet. Glad you aren't putting on those stainless braided lines you have Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I didn't think the stainless would make it past the HAMB patrol! Not that I wanted it tho. I am having a 50 flathead done up with a 4 inch crank, 1/8 over bore, and decent cam. Basically being built to drive. Have a top loader 4 speed with the jeep shift tower to convert it. F1 steering box. Nothing that hasn't been done before but new to me!
Sounds good. I just did mine up stock. Wish I had went with the 4" crank and such... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hay; I like that Roadster. I'm building a 30 myself. Model A frame, 36 rear axle, 39 gear box and pedals, Flathead, 40 front axle and F-100 brakes on all 4 corners. It's come a long way since this photo but still not done. The Wizzard
I make a little half round tab with a 5/8 hole and mount them under the rail right behind the front crossmember
You should really mock up all you'r brake and fuel lines etc. before you paint the frame. You will be much happier that way. You will be almost guaranteed to screw up the new paint job if you do it after. I used 1/4" silver steel brake lines from Napa on mine. They are cad plated and will polish up nice with a piece of steel wool and some aluminum polish. They will stay that way for a long time to come and wont rust. As far as stainless lines ar concerned, I think they are way harder to work with, harder to bend, and have to single flare them. I dont use the green armor coat lines or the newer composite copper and steel lines that have a gold tint to them. Even though my frame is a 32, you will get the idea. There is a lot of forethought and planning to make them nice. I did use through the frame fittings in the front, from Speedway and choose to use braided flex lines. You could use rubber flex lines if you choose. Within reason, my car is going to be a pretty period correct car as it would have been in the early 50s with a Flathead. I did update somethings to make it drive better. Bill
Great looking pics! I was thinking of doing all of the shaping of the lines and what not before the body goes back on the frame. Should make it a whole lot easier to get things in place and fitting snug to the frame.
Beautiful chassis work justpassnthru.. Can I add a tip that worked for me when it came time to bend lines. I took a piece of 12ga. copper romex that I had on hand and pulled out just the white wire. The wire with the jacket is almost the same size as 3/16" steel brake line and is very easy to shape as a template. The white jacket allows you to mark bends nicely with a sharpy The best part is if your not happy with the shape or you make a mistake you you can straighten the piece out and start over. When it fits the way you want transfer your bend marks to the steel line and bend away. This worked great for me and saved a bunch of wasted time. Good luck fab on.
These maybe a little too simple for what your looking for... but it's another example of Hard line to flex line mounts. They came pre-installed on the front of a t-bucket project we picked up awhile ago. wish I could show you what they look like with lines installed but we haven't got the project in front of this one done yet.... Maybe next year. CBB
If you are so concened about the look of PTFE lined SS braded hose assemblies you can slip a piece of black heat shrink over the hose and the hose will appear more like a "stock rubber hose" I even considered slipping over black rubber hose and securing the ends with crimped brass rings to make the hoses look "old" but I do have the advantage of working for a hose fabrication company. However the local hose shops could also "swage" or crimp those brass collars down to give the look without sacrificing the integrity of a 3000 PSI rated hose.
Nothing fancy....just found some tabs at the local hardware store, used lines from the local parts store, bought line cover from a repo place and made my own tab for the rear.
Great pics! More ideas! One thing I was wondering is with the junction being on the left front side doesn't that send fluid to driver side brake sooner than it does to the right brake? Shouldn't the junction be about the middle of the crossmember with the same length lines running left and right? Sort of a built in balancing between the two? Or does it matter?
Not at all. Brake fluid being a liquid doesn't compress. Pressure is equal throughout the lines. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I like to use flex lines to each rear wheel cylinder and run the steel hard line on the frame. this way the rear is clean and the brake lines are up out of the way. It's way easier when the body is off also.
Thanks! What do you use? A couple of front lines just used in back or have you found something specific that works pretty well?
Gordon C. I used -4 SS braided PTFE lined hose assemblies approx. 15"-18" long with AN bulk head (steel) fittings and 1/4" SS (304 grade) lines flared for 37 degrees and use a SS backup sleeve & SS AN nuts. SS clamps to hold the lines secure to the frame. I believe you can order custom -4 assemblies from Godman GodmanHiPerformance.com in Memphis TN. or from some of the catalog. We manufacture these hoses where I work so I have my source.
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