Well, here it is!!! My big acting debut… http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL625B46734E48A220 My velvety smooth voice and superior command of the English language will guide you step by step thru the process of replacing a single bowl master cylinder with a dual bowl master cylinder. There is thread after thread about this conversion but I thought a video may be helpful as well. There are actually 3 videos. This link is a play list with all three in it. I have the parts list in the description on each video as well. But here it is again. 1 = 3/16 to 1/2 -20 brake line adaptor 1 = 3/16 to 9/16 (or 9/16) -18 brake line adaptor 1 = 3/16 brake line union 1 = 3/16 brake line plug 2 = 20" 3/16 brake lines 1 = Fenco M1485 Dual master cylinder I hope this is helpful!
Well done Gr***hopper! But two things to remember, the two bolt holes above from the old master also support the inside pedal bracket ***embly and need to be re-installed and also ALWAYS use a flare nut wrench when working with these lines a regular open end will easily strip them so before removal soak the fittings overnight with PB Blaster or WD-40.Great Job! So this doesn't get buried I will add this to the "Sticky FAQ" file.
That was very well done and thought out . Will be a very good tech for anyone that is converting their old single bowl master cylinder over to a much better dual bowl master cylinder . I have a different way that I bleed out a master cylinder that I learned to do back in the early 70's and been doing it ever since . I just mount the M/C on a vice and fill with brake fluid . Then I put a can or plastic cup under the 2 brake line couplers on the M/C . Then I start to dismantling the M/C on the car . When I get everything down and ready for the new M/C , you will notice that there is brake fluid dripping out t of the new M/C . The M/C actually gravity bleeds the new M/C for you so you don't have to do a bench bleed . I learned that because I use to work in a Ford dealership where I was paid a 50/50 flat rate . It would also work if you had to replace the brake lines and wheel cylinders . The brake lines would gravity bleed while you were doing the installation of the new brake shoes ! You would just have to pay attention on how much brake fluid was dripping out because if you ran out of brake fluid you would have to start all over again . It would also save you time from bleeding out the entire brake system too . You would just open each bleeder one at a time and let gravity do the bleeding for you . Then it would take a couple minutes to do the complete bleeding of the brake system . It works very well when you are doing the work by yourself and you don't have any fancy brake bleeding equipment . Jim
Great video! I've really grown to love Youtube and the home-made instructional videos, it really makes a big difference when you don't know anyone whos done something and you're trying to decide if its something you can do yourself or not.
Another good video if you have done a 302/AOD swap shows how to adjust the LOKAR TV cable to set pressure which is critical to an AOD's survival.
Just wanted to add, I replaced the brake light switch with a push ****on type. I just drilled a hole in the pedal bracket ***embly where the bumper arm could operate it. It workes great.
thanks for these videos! I'll be doing this conversion on my 54 within the next couple weeks and seeing these helps A LOT.
This is a great tool to have:http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html It hooks up to your air compressor,it even works so well I replaced all my brake lines and wheel cylinders and installed the dual master in my '54 it and was 100+ in Phoenix that day and I had a fair amount of PBR's from the garage fridge and forgot to bench bleed the master.After I realized I messed up I thought I would give it a shot anyway,started from the rear to the front and within less than 6-8 minutes it was fully bled with a firm pedal.
I thought it might be helpful to add a few items to this valuable thread. First off, great work on the video, Rayj53.....you smooth-talker. While prepping for this conversion on my '56 Fairlane, I spent some time in the local parts store, looking at various replacement hardlines. Turns out, you can buy a 3/16" line with correct size tube nut that eliminates the need for an adapter. I'm not a big fan of using the line adapters as, in my experiences, they are simply another point of leakage. I did use an adapter to connect the original line for the rear brakes....had I spent a tad more time at the parts house, I could have found the correct sized tube nut for a 3/16" line, cut and reflared the original. In my case, the brake line layout for my car was rather interesting.....a single line went from the MC, down to a T mounted to the frame rail, a bit under the toe board. From there, it split to the rear of the car for the rear brakes, then had a line going forward.....to another distribution block located on the bracket that holds the flex line to the DS drum. A banjo bolt went straight through this distribution block, into the flex line. The other port went across to the p***enger side of the car. Since I'm new to the early Fords, I'm unsure if this is a normal configuration or not. The good side of discovering this is it only required one new line to be made - a short line, out of the large chamber of the master, to a T-fitting for the original pressure switch and wiring (something that was important to me), then a line down from there to the T-fitting on the frame just under the toe board: All that's left to do is bleed the brake system, oil/filter change, tighten the gen belt, and take her on a test drive. And, I'd like to publicly thank nascardave for his help - he had everything I needed in his workshop, and was a wealth of information. Thanks again, Dave. Your swaybars are at the top of my "next items to do" list.
Am a big fan of the bleeder screws with the built in check valves, crack them open bleed air and close. Saves a lot of time and effort.
Thinking about doing this to my 53. Does this Fenco mc have built in residual valves, or any need for external ones or proportional valve?
Part of the beauty of this swap is no extra valves are needed with this swap when you retain the drum brakes,this is something you should do with your '53 also (uses the same parts) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/self-adjusting-brakes-for-a-54.899224/
He is still on the H.A.M.B. message him and ask why he took it down, also he did a youtube video on the AOD both helped a lot people out over the years,maybe if enough members message him he can dig them up again.
The Jalopy Journal
