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55 chevy hydramatic transmission blown??

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Eddie S., Sep 17, 2015.

  1. Eddie S.
    Joined: May 16, 2012
    Posts: 10

    Eddie S.
    Member

    Hi everyone,
    I recently put power disc brakes on my 55 1st series chevy truck. It was sitting for about 9 months prior to that so after cleaning the fuel system and some maintenance I tested it the brakes and all was good.. Until two days later I was at a stop light when I began to see smoke. I drive home quickly and by that time there was smoke everywhere! I jumped out and check under the truck and the Tranny seemed to be the source.
    After consulting with some local mechanics I drained the Tranny and took the pan off. The oil was black black and smelling burnt! There were small black pieces (probably gasket?) in the filter. The mechanics of it seem fine and while driving home it shifted same as always..
    I'm unsure if I should just clean it up, throw a new gasket in there and fill it up or have it rebuilt? Anybody have an idea of what's going on here?
    Another Option is to order the seal/gasket kit and do that. But I can't find anyone local that knows much about hydra-matic, as a matter of fact most refuse to accept that I don't have a powerglide.
    Any advice or experience with this Tranny trouble??
     
  2. Eddie S.
    Joined: May 16, 2012
    Posts: 10

    Eddie S.
    Member

    A couple of photos of the situation.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,253

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    No expert by any means but have thought about draining the tranny & torus and replacing with correct fluid as well as replacing filter? My 46 Olds hydro had no external cooler so flushing was out was out of the quesion.
     
  4. justpassinthru
    Joined: Jul 23, 2010
    Posts: 609

    justpassinthru
    Member

    What was the source of the smoke? I assume it was leaking from somewhere? Does the trans have an external cooler or air cooled?
    Bill
     
  5. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,858

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Does it have a external vent plugged up.
     
  6. Just clean it up (drain the torus as has been mentioned) fill it with fresh fluid and drive it until it quits.

    or you could do the totally red neck hot rod thing, "if it aint broke fix it 'til it is".

    it should be air cooled.
     
  7. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,858

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I second it, all you going to buy I'd a filter and gasket and fluid, then drive till it quits
     
  8. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,326

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    From the pictures, the transmission doesn't look bad, but it is hard to see what the internal clutch paks look like. As has been mentioned before, I would drain ALL of the fluid and clean the filter pickup assembly. After putting new fluid in, drive it around and see what it shifts like. If shifts are soft, that means the clutch paks are wearing out and need replacement. Another thing would be to put a pressure gauge at the main line pressure port, which is near the band adjustments. See if the pressure is ok. Also make sure the TV rod is properly adjusted. A band adjust couldn't hurt also.
     
  9. Eddie S.
    Joined: May 16, 2012
    Posts: 10

    Eddie S.
    Member

    Okay I'm gonna have to do some homework but I've already ordered new seals/gaskets. I need to find out how to adjust the band.
    Thanks for the feedback! Great advice and insight!!
     
  10. onthefritz
    Joined: Oct 29, 2014
    Posts: 44

    onthefritz

    The dual range hydramatic has two bands. The front band has to be adjusted with the pan off and a special tool. I am not sure if there is another way to do that adjustment without the tool. The rear band can be adjusted externally. The adjusting screw is on the left side above the levers.
    Vehicle on jack stands
    Engine running
    Transmission in low
    Loosen the adjuster and then slowly turn it in until you feel it contact the drum.
    Transmission in neutral
    Count the number of turns until the band contacts the drum again.
    Back off the adjuster 1/3 the number of turns it took you in the above step.
    If everything went well moving the shifter to low should cause the adjusting screw to be tight and in neutral it should be loose.

    That chunk of gasket is a cause of concern.
    If any more is floating around in there they could plug a port and cause low oil pressure which would make it slip and heat the fluid.
    Did the pan have any sediment in it?
     
  11. meengrinch
    Joined: Jun 22, 2008
    Posts: 518

    meengrinch
    Member
    from ipswich ma

    I remember a part that went bad on those......has a vac hose to it.....part went bad and sucked all the tranny fluid into engine.....smoked like hell.....Damm memory can't remember it's name....controlled shifting
     
  12. onthefritz
    Joined: Oct 29, 2014
    Posts: 44

    onthefritz

    Vacuum modulator
     
  13. Never saw a hydro with a modulator.
    Was it puking oil onto the exhaust?
     
  14. onthefritz
    Joined: Oct 29, 2014
    Posts: 44

    onthefritz

    By the way. The above adjustment is for the 4 speed hydro. I have never worked on a three speed.
     
  15. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    Actually, only the Olds/Pont SLANT PAN Hydros had the front band internally adjustable, and the rear band externally adjustable; all the other single and dual RANGE hydros had both bands externally adjusted. Take a look at the Hydro Group here on the HAMB, one of those guys may be of some help. I think you have a lip seal coming apart as evidenced by what you found in the filter/pickup. If that's the case, a full rebuild is needed. Do a search, someone recently rebuilt their own Hydro here. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     

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