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1952-59 Ford Lowering the rear of a '52-'54... What have YOU done?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by TexasHardcore, Sep 20, 2015.

  1. My '54 has 3" blocks out back. A little driveshaft rubbing, no biggie. I want to go lower, but I'm not interested in bagging it or 4-linking it, yet.

    I know I'll have to raise the driveshaft tunnel and notch the frame. I want to do it once, even if it's not getting bagged just yet I just want to have those clearance issues resolved, so if/when the times comes to bag it, those are not a concern.

    How much did you raise the driveshaft tunnel and how did it affect the rear seat?

    How did you build your notch, and what is the minimum clearance to lay the frame?

    What did you do out back as far as springs for a deep static drop?

    If I can't get the desired drop with the leafs, I'm considering a 2-link with Panhard and coil overs. Probably using the stock front spring hangers with a bushing and thick wall square tubing arms, attached to the rear with the ubolts. A bridge across the notch should suffice for coil over mounts. I know 2-links aren't desireable for the pinion angle change, but I had a 2-linked late model chevy pickup on bags that rode great, and didn't have issues with wearing out output shafts, yokes, or universal joints.

    Please post pictures of what you've done.
     
  2. voodookustoms
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 650

    voodookustoms
    Member

    Hey,
    I used 3" blocks and I had my leafs de-arched 3" and I also removed 3 of the smaller leafs. You can see my car in my build thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-52-54-victoria-build.970076/
    I had to raise the tunnel from behind the seat to just behind the front seats. I raised it probably 4" in the back, and I raised the floor slightly above the axle. I did have to modify the rear seat frame. But you can't tell when the seat is in the car. I just notched it over the raised section of tunnel.
    With the leafs removed, it is pretty soft back there, especially with more than just me and my wife in the car. I will probably change it to 4" blocks and put the bottom leafs back in. Maybe add air shocks if that doesn't help.
    If you want to go much lower than my car, I think a link kit with coil overs is the way to go for sure.
     
  3. k5mog
    Joined: Aug 29, 2012
    Posts: 212

    k5mog
    Member

    If you need new leaf springs I think Posie super glides are the way to go. You can get them with a 3" drop and have no worry about ubolts hanging below your rims
     
  4. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    BLUDICE
    Member

    So you're rubbing with 3" blocks?? Wow I thought 3" would clear - I've got 2" now and thought of going 3 or 4", but not if I have to rise the tunnel.
     
  5. The car was lowered with 3" blocks when I got it. It has some leaves removed as well, but the shackles are flipped down, effectively raising the rear back up so it doesn't rub now, but does rub when the shackles are flipped back into original position when loaded down with p***engers.
     
  6. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,736

    bobss396
    Member

    Toss some air shocks on the car for when you carry people around. Rig up a compressor and you're golden.
     
  7. 54HotRod
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 509

    54HotRod
    Member

    I took the chance a few years ago and bought 3" drop leaf springs from Jamco. Although I went through the typical customer relation problems that everyone was at that time, maybe you will have better luck.
     
  8. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,735

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've considered using some 2 " lowering blocks on the rear of the wagon,it seems a little high in the back. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
  9. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,379

    56longroof
    Member

    I agree. But I like em LOW
     

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