Hamb crew, So on my build I am running out of real estate by the clutch fork. My driver side header collector is too close to fit the slave cylinder inline with the clutch fork. Here's my question, can I take the bend out of the fork and move the contact point for the clutch rod back? Making the arm straight will buy me plenty of clearance for the slave cylinder to squeeze in there. I will keep it equidistant from the throw out bearing so leverage isn't effected, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something. Welding and fab work isn't a concern, I just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious. Thanks guys.
Ugh... I see a pull-type slave in your future. This is the push-type I'm using in my Ford. Maybe getting the slave more towards the engine is your salvation?
I cant till ya if its a good idea or not, but i cut mine off just past the hole on the top and welded a large square nut to the top, moved the slave up and in, no problems so far....
GM made like 491 different clutch forks. Some are flatter than others. Your's is curved forward. Perhaps a flatter one would give you more space.
You can also just use a straight fork like Bobs396 shows above. I'm thinking that was a truck part, but not 100% sure about that. Good Luck
I see no issue with cutting, welding and straightening the clutch fork. The only issue I would be especially mindful of is that you keep the overall length of the clutch arm the same as it is from the factory. Lengthening or shortening the length of the fork could potentially change the throw of the clutch so that it either doesn't fully disengage or bottoms out. If you keep that in mind, you should be just fine
I thought the bell housing was off a truck, decoded it.. Tri-5 Chevy. Pretty sure the fork is a C20-ish truck part, looks like forged steel.
I don't have any pictures, but my 27 has a chopped off arm, just like you are wanting to do. I also had no room, so I cut the end off, built a mount so a bolt could slip down through it, and then used a rod end on the end of my hydraulic cylinder. Been on there for over 25 years and works great. On a mechanical clutch setup it might be a little stiff, due to the reduced leverage, but a hydraulic cylinder will push it just fine, and I am running a high performance pressure plate. Don
You'll be fine, pie cut the fork you have, straighten it, re weld. If it doesn't work.... No harm no foul.
That's an easy fix. I modified a 3 sp Falcon fork and manufactured a new pivot for it on the opposite side of the bell housing to activate a GM clutch behind my nailhead. Just need to make sure the ratio of the throw is right.
Lots of luck returning a set of used headers. There is also a Nova fork that exits the bell at closer to the 7 o'crotch position. Which would require some vivisection to his ****ter shield.
Not on the car he is building. Deto has sourced a set of headers that clear his steering, which is all kinds of in the way on the 49-54 Chevy cars. Tweaking the clucth fork is much simpler than making another set of headers work around that wonky steering setup.
Cant help you on the fork but if you go this route I would consider fabbing up a little heat shield. I have heard of slave cylinders close to the exhaust causing headaches. Cesar
Look up headers for 49-54 chevys. The Sanderson are ugly and that's the only company making sbc headers. These shorty camaro headers are a better option for what I'm trying to accomplish
Here's mine, second post on page 9 I think. Sort of complicated but works perfect. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...kup-build-my-first-build-thread.765448/page-9 Aaron
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