Here's number two Steve – a low profile, rigid way to relocate electrical leads. This example is a starter solenoid, but the concept could be applied to many different wiring challenges. Things were getting really tight between the frame rails and the engine on my current build (Model A, Deuce rails, 354 Chrysler). Because I'm running block hugger headers and I tucked the exhaust so close to the oil pan, there was no way to make the electrical connections to the starter solenoid because they were pointing down, straight into the exhaust. That meant I had to move the leads to the opposite side of the solenoid. Here's how I did it. I cut up a piece of copper plate into two strips. I bent them around the solenoid. Then I press fit and soldered new threaded leads on the relocated ends. And to wrap it up, I insulated the copper strips with shrink wrap and slipped a strip of rubber insulation between the leads and the solenoid. Here's the starter installed. The blue at the bottom is the frame rail.
Yes.....quite nice, and a hell of a good idea. Me, I would be concerned with a long-term stress crack developing in the copper from vibration, but that might take a loonnng time. and you're right.....things are getting a bit tight in there. Roger
righty tidy man. Some of the semi engine builders have a similar setup on their starter solenoids to add additional power terminals.
Very clever! I'll note that you don't need to use copper buss for this; aluminum will work just as well, although you may need to increase the cross-section slightly. You can even laminate the bus from multiple pieces of thinner material (which from an electrical standpoint is actually better) if you have issues forming the thicker material or don't have it available. A cross-section of .3 square inch will carry 250+ amps, enough for nearly any starter load.
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