Hey guys... Looks like the front end is worse than I thought, wondering about my options. A tube frame would be nice... but... fixing whats already here is a good thought too. Sadly what's already here is torn, and patched, dented and bent... and the welds are worse than mine. (and I'm really not that good...) It actually scares me that I drove this thing before pulling it apart, its in that bad of shape. (Cant even get a frame chop to give me a quote! They arent interested!) I'm under the impression I need a 220 volt arc welder to do some decent frame work, what brands would you guys be recomending? How big of an overlap should there be between the old and new, if I end up going with a sub-frame? Any ideas on how I can get the car nice and level so I dont end up with a trike with a mounted spare? My floor isnt the flatest in the world, and I dont have much room. Thanks...
If it is bent at all cross measure your center section before you even think about doing anything to it. Also check you ride height (not while on the tires) for sag or twist in the frame. Post pics. Frame shops don't like the responsiblity that comes with older cars.
Hey, Frame damage comes in five flavors, make that six if ya through in rust out.....give us some good photos from all angles. All the fish- plates and frame clips in the world won't do ya any good if damage runs back of the cowl, and isn't corrected first. An un even shop floor is a problem, but not a bad one. Just level the frame on stands, with shims as necessary and check it often with a torpedo level. S****ey Devils C.C.
Its got a body on it at the moment... But I'm thinking its going to come off, as much work as that is... Will work on some pictures tomorrow. Thanks guys
Here are the pictures: Drivers side frame spring pocket P***enger side lower control arm P***enger side lower control arm from the top http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6062/p21800058sb.jpg I cant get a good picture of it, but the crossmember has a tear on the top skin at the drivers lower control arm... and the bottom skin popped its spot welds up to the spring pocket. As you might have guessed, its got a bunch of shims... The thick ones are double normal size... dont even know where you can buy em that thick. I'm gonna start figuring how to get the front clip off this thing.
Other than some ****ty welds I can't see the main problem to offer an opinion. Your frame is the foundation of the "house" you're building. Keep it square and straight. Be logical about your approach. this **** comes easy to me yet I understand how intimidating it can be to some. Yeah you want a decent 220v Mig welder of at least 200amp ability. NO FLUX CORE WIRE! DANGEROUS! And make sure you use at least ER70 S6 for strength. S2 and S3 are for sheet metal and easy grinding. If you do a search there's lots of info about sub-framing older stuff. Nice way to go if you're on a budget. You may also want to pony up and completely strip the frame in question to bare steel before you start. Clean metal makes clean welds. Look for a re-man welding machine at a commercial welding supplier for the best deal. Sometimes they sell their loaners and demos at huge discounts. Shop smart and good luck.
Hey, That cross member, and those welds don't look OEM to me! They look like a repair was made at some time, with that crossmember cut out with a fire wrench. All of this is very repairable, but you would want to remove the upper and lower a arms. I'd grind all of those welds back to good metal, and stick weld in new metal. Yes, a squirt-gun welder could be used, but if your welding skills arn't top drawer, a frame is no place to learn welding. Ya might consider grindin out the welds and have someone with a buzz box, come in and lay down some good sound welds. The idea is to solve problems, not create new ones. The fat shims look like body shimms, not front end alignment shims. S****ey Devils C.C.
Your right... They arent from the factory. At some point in the past the front end on this thing was wasted. Hit hard enough to bend all the supports, and require a hell of a lot of body work. Forward half of the front clip is new... and what isnt, is bondo. Always... always... get under a car and look it over. Ugh.
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