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Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    The float is floating. Checking float level.
     
  2. jim galli
    Joined: Sep 28, 2009
    Posts: 385

    jim galli
    Member

    The seal at the top isn't much to begin with, and if it's 55 or 60 years old and has been dry and then just got wet again you could see that weep. If you cobbled on an electric fuel pump to get it going, most of them, and probably all of the modern ones will overcome the float on old Ford and Stromberg carbs.
     
  3. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,351

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I know nothing about strombergs but that looks like an accelerator pump to me. That is going to raise the likelihood of being a place to leak something fold, it's a pump after all and not very precision at that.
     
  4. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Took the top off the card and the accelerator pump plunger was pretty bad. Swapped it for another I had and now it doesn't leak.
    Also picked this up from a friend today when I dropped off the seat to have the upholstery finished. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441311968.651684.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441311990.061640.jpg
     
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  5. jim galli
    Joined: Sep 28, 2009
    Posts: 385

    jim galli
    Member

    That 6V Autopulse is your friend.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  6. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Guy came by today to buy my Cadillac marine engine and gave me these. He had a super dual manifold, but not for my year. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441397231.821048.jpg
     
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  7. CaliDreamin'
    Joined: Jul 30, 2009
    Posts: 179

    CaliDreamin'
    Member

    digging this truck, I need one.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  8. Great looking truck. HRP
     
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  9. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Got the seat back and installed today ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441833706.678530.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1441833736.275892.jpg
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,436

    alchemy
    Member

    Don't listen to the yahoo who said a 94 is better than a Stromberg 97. Once the Stromberg is THOROUGHLY cleaned and a new kit put in, it is a hugely superior carb for flatheads. Look up Uncle Max here on the HAMB for parts, or send him your carb for expert (and fast) professional rebuilds: http://97-express.com/

    Once you have used Uncle Max's advice and services for your carb, you will have a friend for life.

    And even if you are using a vintage electric fuel pump, you'll still need a good fuel pressure regulator. Keep it under 2 lbs.
     
  11. robH
    Joined: Sep 8, 2009
    Posts: 38

    robH
    Member

    Great truck ! In case you are still looking for a 2-pot manifold that accommodates a generator, I have one that you might consider. Been meaning to list it (for a couple of years). Haven't got around to it yet. OK to shoot me a PM, or we can post here. (Bare-bones, no name on it, comes with two 94's, bead-blasted clean, no damage, with oil-fill tube.)
    Again, great truck !
     
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  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Nope. I'm only 5'-9", so I sit pretty comfortable. My wife will drive it too, and she's only 5'-4".
     
  13. I'm loving your truck. Kinda jealous that mine came in such poor condition or I would have built it more like yours. You will probably be on the road before cool weather.
     
  14. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Already on the road, but only short trips for now. Had a squealing sound today that sounded like a throw out bearing, but turned out to be a dry speedo cable :(
     
  15. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Took the truck out on Saturday for the Nor Cal Reliability Run start. I didn't plan on making the trip, but a couple of guys said I should go for part of it. But, when I was driving there, and when the run started, I had a nasty squealing coming from somewhere (the speedo cable from the last post), so I drove it home. Found it as I was getting home. When the squealing was happening, the speedo would drop down 10-20mph, then back up to normal when the squealing stopped. I'm headed out for a longer run this Friday, back to the upholstery shop.
     
  16. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    The seat came out fantastic! Love the truck!
     
  17. Lubing that speedo is very easy. It is the speedometer itself, not the cable more then likley
     
  18. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks, Jersey. The seat did turn out better than I expected.
     
  19. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

  20. burbanite
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 188

    burbanite
    Member

    Even this is damn cool...
     
  21. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Picked up "new" heads today. I'll have them checked out before I buy them. If they don't work out, he'll put them back on the wall as art ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1443301762.815234.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1443301783.225475.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1443301804.169122.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1443301822.211613.jpg
    Question: what does the 10-0 mean? Compression ratio?
     
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  22. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Those are nice! I would assume 10.0 is 10-1 compression but that would depend on what crank you have.

    Don't deck those heads! Those small pits of corrosion can be filled with JB weld and sanded smooth. More guys screw up aluminum heads by decking them. And if they are not flat bolt them to a thick flat piece of steel and put them in the oven for a couple hours then let them cool.
     
  23. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Thanks for the tip, rat. I was planning to deck them but now maybe not
     
  24. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,517

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    If there were mine I would bead blast the corroded areas then alodine them before the JB weld. It should stop or at least slow the corrosion.

    Same repair for corroded magnesium but you use trichromium solution.
     
  25. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    Took the truck for a spin today. Seems like there's a bit of a miss.
     
  26. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,444

    Budget36
    Member

    10:1 is awfully high for a FH V8, but if it's so, they must have been shaved before, you can make out 9.5 as well.

    I'd CC the chambers first, then check head to valve clearance, I think you may run into some issues there.
     
  27. woody jim
    Joined: Jul 9, 2013
    Posts: 10,408

    woody jim
    Member

    DON,T EVEN WASH IT IM000288.JPG
     
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  28. Rustygt
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 204

    Rustygt
    Member
    from Emeryville

    The 94 is a great carb for a mild hop up; dial them in right and they are sweet running dependable units. I think that calling out somebody for their opinion is whack. So if you are perfect then start throwing yahoo's any where you want.
     
  29. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,058

    Jeff34
    Member

    When I changed the oil, the lid of the canister leaked onto the head. I was pissed at first, but later noticed that it cleaned off the head and revealed this... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444591253.759288.jpg

    I thought it was a PBR logo, but found this today when I was replacing water pumps and pulled the distributor.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444591332.964983.jpg
     

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