Ok, just like the ***le says, I may want to do a quicky paint job on a car I'm looking at to buy. Typical uncared-for 60-year-old paint, oxidized and surface rust in places. If Earl Schieb were still around, that's about all I need; cheap is a big item. This is mostly for protection in the short run, but I hope to see some cosmetic improvement, something better than 'rat rod', rattle-can, or 'patina'. Suede finish is fine, easy sanding/removal later will be a plus. Basically, scuff it with some 320 and shoot it. I would like to do a color, can I have whatever I use tinted? And did I mention that cheap would be good? The car will see weather and some cruisin', so 'presentable' and weather protection is all I'm really after. I will be doing some minor bodywork too (maybe both before and after paint), so that may need to be factored in. Advice and pointers welcome....
I think I remember reading that you can't paint over Rustolem and expect it to stay. You might want to do a little research. Charlie Stephens
Tint some high fill urethane primer-The toner will give it a little 'sheen' and the urethane primer will seal the surface and be easy to sand later on. If you want it to lay down nice you may need to over-reduce it a little depending on the temp and how you want it to look.
I painted my '29 Pickup a few years ago with an inexpensive single stage urethane recommended by my local automotive paint supplier. The truck was already straight and primered so I just cleaned, scuffed and sealed it, then sprayed the color per the instructions. A month later it was flaking off starting around the door openings and hinges. It was a bunch of work only to have it look like hell in a month or so. Lately I have seen some cars at the local events that were painted by Maaco. I was told that it was pretty affordable, guaranteed and it looked pretty good for a daily driver. I would check with a similar type local paint shop. Look at cars they have painted, talk to customers, etc. You may be time and money ahead to just let "Earl Scheib" do it.
I guess I should have been more clear; this is intended to just be a temporary paint job, with the ability to touch it up as modifications are performed. I've actually considered the local Maaco for 'final' paint (their 'upscale' paints jobs can look pretty good), but that's rather more than I want to spend at this point.
Same here. There's one in Montclair. I haven't seen Macco or 1 day paint. By the way, when I first moved to Chino in the early 90's, Earl Schieb horse ranch was still there. Now it's all full of homes.
A mate of mine sprayed his car with some base coat that he got from a swap meet (no clear) came out looking pretty nice and about 3 years later it seems to be holding up pretty well.
Hey Asphalt Angel....Do you have a build on your ford shown in the picture above? Did you remove the running boards? Thanks.
I look on that auction site for paint at times. There are a few cheap paint suppliers there. TCPglobal has good quality for fair price. Sometimes there are random paints for sale if you don't care for color or brand. Recently I bought 2 quarts of Centari from one guy and 2 more quarts of a similar color Centari from another guy. Mixed them together and painted a beater truck. Had less than $60 in a gallon of quality paint. You could also try these guys,http://smartshoppersinc.com/autobod..._finish_products-1/start_to_finish_paint_kits
being temp i would use a colored primer, that way it sands easy. i like lacquer primer but sometimes never get to painting it later.
I like gloss/shiny myself, never had a prob with gloss enamel,but it dose take time to dry before you can buff,I don't buff for a month. Tractor Supply has some gloss colors that are cheep. Sure is way EZer to clean an looks nicer longer then any flat or statin
I like the idea of a tinted primer for what you want to achieve. I've used TCP Global several times. They have a wide selection of different primers, top coats, and supplies at a reasonable price delivered to your door.
Hit your local napa paint store. Finish1 /Martin Seniour single stage "kits" of a gallon of color and all stuff needed for less than 200 bones. Nice selection of colors in pre made kits that are even cheaper
I've had real good luck using SS acrylic enamel on beaters. Why do it twice? Holds up to weather, looks presentable, relatively cheap depending on color. One & done.
Go with the primer and seal it with a coat of clear. Primer is porous and will allow moisture and rust to penetrate so you need to seal it. Also, any oil drips or brake fluid that soak into the primer can haunt you if you paint over them later. When you are ready to paint it will be easy to give it a light sanding and paint away.
I did my F1 in tractor paint. John Deere Blitz Black, with their thinner it was about $60.00 and a couple years later it is still holding up.
Get the rust spots down to bare metal, neutralize all the pits with evaporust, soak a towel in it and keep it damp. May take a couple wire wheel, evaporust treatments. Neutralize the evaporust with baking soda water. Degrease the panel, DA the panel to blend the edges well. Get epoxy primer, contact paint guru or southern polyurethane, and have them tint the primer whatever color you want your final paint job to be. Shoot the bare metal areas and let the primer flash off, shoot the entire panel again. You need to build up the areas that were bare to level the surface. Paint job done, when you're ready to do more, block the epoxy primer, spray some more, repeat. Topcoat. Don't use industrial paint, valspar, rustoleum, you'll have to strip it all later. Just ordered some paint from tcpglobal, ch***is black urethane, shooting the bottom of a car, I've been wanting to try their paint for a while, we'll see.
Back in the early 70's I used One Day Paint and Body on my '55 Chev ragtop........ $160 for a two tone (coral and shadow gray). Just something to make it look decent so I could get going on the road.....well, I sure did not expect the results they gave me. Way better than ever expected. So be careful....you could get better than expected. Now on the other hand my brother had a Schieb job done on his '57 Chev more door in the mid 60's......from silver to black........two days later the roof peeled off!
Get a tinted sealer, primer will hold moisture. Can work on, then respray as needed. When ready to paint, just sand , wipe down, and spray.
We have Farm and Home type stores in the Midwest , I have painted several trailers with their tractor type paint. I thought it looked good and is certainly inexpensive. Not a big selection on colors is the bad part.
The Jalopy Journal
