1952-59 Ford Lowering our cars

From a different angle: measuring the height before lowering and comparing that measurement to other cars - example at the top edge of the rear fender opening I'm at 16 3/4" with 2" blocks. Now can I drop another 2" with out fear of hitting the tunnel? I looked under the car and there's a lot of room to go yet. It's a 4 door but I never have anyone in the back seat. The reason I'm asking is my car sat really high in the back when I bought it. Even with 2" blocks it doesn't looked to be lowered - now maybe at a normal height I guess. I read where guys lower their cars 2-3-4" and then add comments of issues but never saying the height at a certain location is **" before lowering it. Same can go with the front springs if they are old a weak. So what I would really like to hear from you is the height of your car at the top of the rear fender center with x" blocks - if you're bagged it won't help me because I'm not going there. BTW tire size must be considered too - I'm on 215R /75 x 15.
Thanks

 

My '54 has 3" blocks, and a few leaves removed and it's pretty much sitting on the bump stops. Driveshaft rubs on the floor when I hit a hard bump, but it's driveable as it sits. Tires are 6.70-15's.

I'm going to notch the rear and raise the tunnel for more drop, but I'm not planning to lay frame.

Make sure the shackles are flipped up in the original position, not downwards which raises the rear of the car up about 1.5".

 

Shackles are in correct position.
Can you measure your fender height please? Thx

 

I want to drop my '59 in the rear too, sits way too high. Figure a 56 year old car would have dead rear springs by now. I should have room for 2" or 3" blocks. I may have the rear leaf stacks done over though and build the drop into those.

 

as the rear is lowered 2-4 inches, how do the tires come off?

 

Depends on the car and how much you lower it. My '50 had 3" blocks plus a couple small springs removed - getting the wheels off required a little effort but was possible.

 

Is drive shaft clearance a problem in the 55 and up cars? So far all I have seen mentioned was the 54 and earlier.

 

With mine on jack stands... I had to let the air out of the rear tires to get them on (235-75-15). Jacked up from the side, I hope it gets easier. I plan to carry a floor jack in the trunk.. and an air tank.

 

My '50 had stock rims and tires on it - so removal is easier than if you're running bigger tires and rims.

 

Now back to my thread please - '52-54 fords please - thanks.

 

My '54 measures 15 1/2" at the center of the rear wheel opening with 3" blocks. I also have dropped spindles in front. As the front goes down, the rear comes up slightly. If you don't lower the front , the rear will be a little lower.

 

15 1/2" & 3" blocks - do you have any issues with the drive shaft tunnel? And what size tires are you running? Thx

 

When I got my car, the shackles were flipped downward, which raises the rear up. The measurement was 15.75".



I flipped the shackles into the correct 'upright' position, dropping the rear down 1.5". The measurement is now 14.25"...

Again, this is a few leaves removed from the stock '54 spring packs, and 3" lowering blocks. The axle is about 3/8" from resting on the bump stops, and the driveshaft rubs on the floor when the suspension compresses over a bump, or driveway, or p***engers in the back. (This will be fixed, but it's certainly driveable for now)

 

So at 14 1/4" you're close to the bump stops AND rubs the tunnel. That's helpful to know - what size tires are you running - Thx.

 

After looking at that last picture I see that we should be measuring the distant from the center of the axle and center of the fender - that eliminates the tire size being a factor. Keep in mind this is to determine how far we can lower our cars before rub issues start in the drive shaft tunnel.

 

My tires are 6.70-15's. I didn't measure exactly centered, but it's close enough for me.