My 46 ford has 2 problems. 1. When the light switch is pulled to the park position the gauge lights go on as they are supposed to. 2. When the switch is pulled for the headlights the gauge lights go out. What gives? This happens using 2 different switches. Wired according to wiring diagrams. Headlights are on relays. Problem 2 1. When the headlights are off I have dim (taillight bright) and not the bright brake light. 2. When the headlights and taillights are on and I push on the brake pedal the taillights goes out. All the wiring is new. The taillights are on their own separate fuse. Not good for driving especially at night. Thanks Guys and Gals
On my '41 I believe there is a jumper on the H/L switch that supplies power to dash and park lights when changing from park to headlights. should be able to find a diagram on the web.
The dash light should be wired to the tail light side instead of the front park lights. Brake tail light problem is a bad ground and could also be affecting your dash lights when the electrons are trying to find the path of least resistance to ground even if they have to go through the element of another bulb to do it.
What light switch are you using? Aftermarket universal, original type, or some other OEM type? Sounds like the input power may be hooked in the wrong place on the switch or a few wires are switched on the terminals. The taillights are also miswired; do you have two or three wires coming off the taillight ***emblies? Seeing the 'wiring diagram' and the headlight switch terminal layout would be a big help....
Google public.fotki.com › ... › Reference Photos › Cars › Ford › 1941-1948 Ford. They have complete wiring diagram for '46 Ford
Thanks for the replys. I'll test the suggestions this weekend. I think the brake light wires at the taillight socket may be reversed.
To answer some of the questions. New wiring harness, original headlight switch, wired according to Ford wiring diagram.
Well, this weekend I replaced the Dennis Carpenter 3 gauge voltage reducer that was internally shorted out (blew 30 amp fuses) with the single gauge Runtz style. All gauges seem to work (tested w/ a 6 volt lantern batt), check the wiring on the switch which is the same as Vanpelts diagram for a 1946. Brake lights still don't work but will test by grounding the housing and checking that the new socket is hitting both ****ons. Dash lights on the original dash gauges still don't light up at all, the aftermarket gauges light up only on the parking light side of the switch and go out when switched to the headlight position. 2 steps forward, 3 back.
Just added grounds from taillight bucket to frame and now have brake lights. Thanks guys, now on to the dash lights.
Update!!!! Spent a lot of time with my head crammed up under the dash and traced wires back and forth, consulted wiring diagrams and pertabated for awhile. Finally discovered that the aftermarket gauge lights were wired to the parking lights and the dash gauge lights were wired to nothing because the wiring diagram showed a black wire to the lights when it actually is a blue/red wire. So now have lights as they should be. Next task is getting horns to work (I think i have the relay for the ahoogga horn wired wrong) then the A/C and finally the radiator fan/trinary switch/manual override switch. At least the major hurdle has been crossed. Thanks for all you help and suggestions.
It is just wrong totally that you have that "ahooga" horn on the car in the first place. Take the cheesy piece of **** off and find the nearest s**** metal bin you can find to put it into.( After you give it a good working over with a 2lb ball peen hammer.) Then you will have one less thing to wire and a cleaner car.
I'd put one in the second car, just so I could honk it after the burnout to mess with people's heads.
I've got one in my avatar and was going to remove it, but the little kids just love the damn thing when I'm in parades... LOL.
I rather like the "bull horn" horns myself but with an Ahooga horn I think it would be a secondary horn even on my Model A. Personally I like the mid 70's Cadillac three or four horn sets that will get someone's attention and have a set for the 48 off one of the donor rigs that has p***ed though my hands over the years.
I live in a rural area. I can't count the number times I've thwarted a collision with deer on the roadway by hitting my ahooga. Those horns scare the bejesus out of them.
The taillight/stoplight is a symptom of a bad ground. Test it by hooking up a separate ground wire directly from the light to the battery. Check to see if there is a ground strap from the body to the engine, the lack of one can cause all sorts of electrical problems.
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