Projects Handmade 27 roadster... Spare time build

Hi;
Dimensions are as follows:
Height of panel below decklid 10 1/2" (does not include the return bend that is underneath the decklid
Height of the panel above the decklid 8 1/4" total (this height includes a 3/4" flat lip on top of the panel).
Decklid length in inches 26 3/4" x 34 3/8" wide.

If you want I can send pictures and more information. PM me if you want anything else.

 

thank you so much!

 

Started the main section of subrails, heat and bent them to fit the wooden template. They got a little tweaked. I will straighten them and clean them up. Not happy with them at all actually. But the stock seat riser fits...

 

What gauge are the sub rails?

Whats the reason for using the wooden templates to make them? Are they to long or is the material to thick to bend in a traditional box and pan brake?

Sorry for all the questions at once, just trying to see if i can think of a way to not use heat to bend them. Then hopefully save you a bunch of time trying to tweak them at the end. Good luck.

-Chris

 

Only the outside edge that the sheet metal folds over is curved on the stock subrails, from the b pillar forward.

 

Very amazing for those of us without the skill and or tools. Nice work. Tim

 

Thanks for that tidbit. Makes it even harder. Oh well, mine will be curved the whole way I guess . I revisited and remade a new subrail with a new approach today. Came out better. More Pics tomorrow

Thanks!

 

Yes it would be hard to reproduce unless it was a seperate piece then welded on.
thanks for showing us your progress. I'm especially interested in the sub structure.

 

i had this picture handy of the tulip sub structure.

 

This was my thinking on the subject. I've been pondering it since yesterday. You could do a 2 piece construction pretty much like what you have but make the side profile out of a piece of sheet run through a shrinker then cut and welded on to the rail tube.

It would probably work best on a tube that's got an inverted T shape to it at the height you need it. You should have room to do something like that, IIRC the top of the rails is only 1.25" give or take (that's the size tubing I am using on mine).

Curving your whole piece should work great for your body though, I'm just thinking in terms of stock panels and bracketry.

 

Great work, great thread!

 

Ditto. Man, that's some nice work!

 

Lots of Safety and subrails happened tonight

 

John, what are the plans for the '36 ?

 

Steve,,,, looks great....

So cool to be surrounded by talented people, and learn from them.

 

He is good, REAL good

 

Somewhere in Dearborn...Henry smiles as he discovers this thread!

 

Sometime I've got to see what goes on between the "beating with the nylon mallet" part, and a finished roadster panel. Steve you are a Wizard ( and your "Dad"'s pretty sharp too!)

BTW-What's the impact rating of that headgear? Looks like something from the Italian Renaissance.

 

Thank you guys so much.

 

Incredible!

 

Really great work!

 

Mike you are welcome to swing by anytime

 

Rear subs started.

 

So very cool! Can't wait for each post!

 

You could probably make your money back on this build by making up a batch of these and selling them!:

 

Amazing work, thanks for the details!
What gauge on the rear subrails? More details would be great considering how many of these (rear subs) are cut off...mine included!
Thanks again, johnny

 

Rear subs are 16ga. Factory is 13, but open on be bottom. I feel 16 fully boxed is sufficient.

 

One more night I'll have subrails

 

Great thread !

 

Man this is going way to quickly for a "spare time build" lol..... looks great Steve.

-Chris