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Could use some radiator advice for my sedan

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dodgerodder, Feb 18, 2006.

  1. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Well I'm kind of in a bind on choosing the final radiator for my sedan. And I have a couple of limiting factors that won't allow me to go with to big of a radiator for different issues.

    Right now my mounting brackets are set up for the typical 64-66 mustang radiator. I built them with a used 3-row radiator that I had. Now that I am getting it all assembled for the last time, I am not sure what the best radiator for my needs would be. Heres my issues:

    I live in Florida, so yeah its hot.

    I'm gonna drive my sedan lots, and I HATE a car that you always have to worry about overheating in traffic.

    Power is 455 Olds.

    The main reason I chose a mustang radiator to begin with is size. With my front end being bagged, I couldn't really have too tall of a radiator because at ride height the bottom of the grille is only 5" off the ground. The radiator sits higher than that though, so even if I should hit something stupid it should miss the bottom tank.:rolleyes:

    My choices as of now are between a 4-row 64-66 mustang brass radiator, and a 64-66 Mustang Aluminum radiator. Yeah, I know, Aluminum isn't "traditional", but my priority is having a car that is drivable, and I can mist a little zinc-oxide primer & black on the aluminum.

    Do the aluminum radiators cool that much better then a brass one. Most ads for the aluminum ones say they cool like a 5-row brass radiator, even though they have only 2-rows of 1" tubes:confused:

    They main reason I don't want a custom radiator is because I'd like to have something thats somewhat readily available for replacement.

    Sorry for the LONG post, but I'd love to hear some input on this. Thanks guys in advance, Dan
     
  2. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    If you have to go with the stock rad get the aluminum one. most 4 row rads the tubes are only 1/2" or smaller with less fin contact area then the 1" tubes. also the aluminum rad will flow better.
     
  3. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Thanks for the input Slag. I have heard the same about the 4-row brass ones, I just wasn't sure how it apllied in the "real world".

    I just really want the thing not to run hot. I guess I could look into having a radiator built too, if it would be better. About the only size I could pick up though would be a little bit at the top of the grille shell, since the mustang radiator is square on top. I just don't know how much cooling such a small addition would make

    My grille shell btw is a 28/29 model a shell, heres a pic for reference
     

    Attached Files:

  4. You can make the hole wider in almost any application. Example; the TORINO radiator is a couple of inches wider then the FAIRLANE. Same basic front clip, except for the hardware.

    How? Take out the present mount bracket and make one to fit the radiator of your choice. I got a the Torino for my '29. Turned it upright, had the rad-shop move the fill-neck and both in and out connections, new radiator and all the mod-work for $210. I have more radiator than I'll ever need, turned long way up and down, it goes all the way down to just in front of the I'beam axle.

    My point is, you can get a stock radiator and make the hole fit the radiator. Any radiator shop, with a few minutes research, can find one that comes close to your specs and move the fillneck, and hose connections for another $40 or $50. Yes, or course you might have to relocate things like horns, or grille mount brackets.
     
  5. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    you can have a custom top tank made for the mustang rag. when i was looking into my rad the shop said they can use a mustang aluminum core and make any shaped tanks i want. The added volume of water in the top tank would be a big help also.
     
  6. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate. You both bring up good points. I agree that doing a rounded top tank would fill up alot of dead space, and add some volume of water, which should help lots.

    I stopped at a couple of the radiator shops in town to look into what b29 said. Unfortunately I got the deer-in-the-headlights look. Not many places in the wonderful city I live in want to think or do work outside the box.

    But I did get a guys card(hope I still have it) that builds custom radiators pretty reasonable. I explained to him back then what I was trying to accomplish, and he said no problem.

    I think I may bite the bullet and look into getting one made, and be done with it. Like I said earlier, I really hate a car that you can't drive because it overheats all the time, it sucks.

    The guy I spoke with at the rod run said he could make brass or aluminum radiators. He also told me that the aluminum will cool much more efficiently too, I have just never had any experience with aluminum to say.

    I'll see if I can round up his # and call him monday to see what he can do. When I talked with him before he told me aluminum to fit my shell would run about $400, maybe $450.

    Still open for any input though
     
  7. Yeah; Raidator STORE, not repair shop. It's a crying shame, the idiot in the office running business away, don't know that the guy in the back can do a simple neck-solder.............

    Which brings up a good point. I'm going down to ask my radiator guy if he tunes in to the HAMB. He might be able to pick up some business here. If any of you know a good radiator guy...........
     
  8. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,824

    4tford
    Member

    It looks like your cross member is blocking a good amount of radiator which will give less surface area for air flow. What is the 455 HP it makes a difference on cooling also. I used a two roll aluminum with 1 1/4 inch tubes in my 40 because of the limited surface area and it cools fine with a good fan and shroud. Just my $.02.
     
  9. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,824

    George
    Member

    I ran an Olds 455 in my 48 Plym for several years with a 190 thermostat. My rad is 21" high X 25" wide. Ran right @ 190. Did get up to 200-205 1 time coming back from Biloxi in Aug., still wasn't a problem!
     
  10. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Yeah its tough to get alot of shops to do "out-of-the-ordinary" stuff around here. I guess its easier for them to do the normal stuff for the quick buck and have no liability in todays sue-happy envoirment hehe.

    And theres really no magic in building the radiator, its pretty straight forward stuff for a radiator guy
     
  11. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Yeah, the crossmember blocks a little of the lower bottom corners, though the crossmember isn't flush against the rad, it tucks in for the middle section. I attached a pic to show what I mean.

    You can also see that I'll have to have the lower neck relocated to the center of the tank to clear the front lift arms in the crossmember, but thats pretty minor

    Thanks for the advice 4t
     

    Attached Files:

  12. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    I wish I could fit a rad even close to that big. I thing the mustang core is only around 17"x20" or so

    Maybe I'll have to ditch to model a shell and put a mack truck front end on so that I can keep it cool:eek:

    Out of curiousity, does anybody have dimensions of a 28/29 radiator for reference?? I know that my shell will obviously fit it, but I'm not sure it will clear my frame mounts or the front crossmember shop. If I could make it fit I could have one built based on stock a tank dimensions to get as much volume as possible
     
  13. telecaster_6
    Joined: Dec 8, 2001
    Posts: 629

    telecaster_6
    Member

    My A sedan is running a 590 horse big block ford, so i'm in the same dillema as you. My grill shell is a 34 chevy so i have a little more room than your (stress the little part)
    I ended up getting a chopped 32 aluminum rad from a guy in Michigan. He has em on ebay all the time. got mine buy-it-now for 360 bucks. Pretty nice. not show car worthy but still nice. I think its 17.5"x 23 " if i remember right.

    If your interested, his seller id is Disrad i think, pretty easy to work with and can do custom inlets and outlets for the same price.

    Josh
     
  14. The Koz
    Joined: Dec 2, 2005
    Posts: 25

    The Koz
    Member
    from Daytona Fl

  15. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Thanks man, I'll check that guy out. $360 is definitely in line. Your A sounds like a great car Josh
     
  16. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943

    dodgerodder
    Member

    Ha Roger those are the same people I spoke with at the Turkey Rod Run. I appreciate the link. I called them today and they can make exactly what I need. I can get a rounded top tank to fit my shell and get more water volume. And the core is considerably bigger then the mustangs, so it should work out.

    Plus I can get the inlets/outlets anywhere. I had their card but lost it, thanks for helping me on that one.

    Believe me, your sedan will be a great car:). Hows it coming along?
     
  17. The Koz
    Joined: Dec 2, 2005
    Posts: 25

    The Koz
    Member
    from Daytona Fl

    Glad to help!

    That's the same rad I plan on using. Not crazy about the aluminum look, might have to paint mine black, when I get to that point.

    I just orderd my 2x4 steel tubing for my frame rails today.
    Should be here tomorrow. I'll take some picks when I shape them at welding class. ( Thanks 60s Style, for the great tech)

    Roger
     

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