I am sure someone has posted this stud removal process before, but I could not find it on a search so here you go. I just heated up the stud alittle and melted a candle (i guess crayons work too) on it and the studs spun out super easy.
Here are some pictures of my home porting work based on an article by AV8. I am still waiting for a intake gasket so I can match the intake manfold ports. I have never done this before so hopefuly I don't mess it up.
now, my normal routine for stud removal is to double-nut the stud,then break it off in the block.then i get really pissed and throw stuff around the garage,usually heavy things that find their way at high speed into my rarest parts and curios.well this time i had alot riding on this one single stud,literally jamming up months of work..so i decided to try this method.i used parrafin wax,and to my amazement it came right out..thanks man,your post saved my ass big time...(and most of the stuff on my wall)
"Melts" between the fastener and the part it is stuck in/on. Works so smooth, you won't believe it till you try it.
So wax can get in there into the threads better than some type of spray lubricant like wd40 or CRC? Man, that don't sound right but you guys know your chit.
This is cool. I bet it's the parafine that is the clue here. The firm I work fore refurbish Hydro Power Generators. Sometimes the rotorpoles are locked on the rotor by dovetails and 2 wedges for radial tightening/force. Our mechanics had a job on an old one some months ago. The wedges where stuck, LIKE IN STUCK. Been there since 1914. They where about 3 feet long and came in from each side. They used 2 x 60tons hydraulic jacks (one jack inside welded bracket on pic. Target of rammer) and rammed one wedge with a 500kg rammer hanging from the crane in the roof. Used cans of penetrating "SUPER" oil. STUCK STUCK STUCK STUCK ......then one on the boys said. Lets try parafine instead of the spray-oil and soak it over night. SLIPPERY. They came out. Stil hard but possible to ram out. PARAFINE RULES. Wish I knew this when breaking 10 bolts in my Flathead 2 years ago. Tried all the hints from the dudes. ........but never lightened the candle. Paul
Studied this in Auto Machinist course. It's not about the lubrication, it has to do with coefficients of expansion and contraction. The bolt and the block/head expand at different rates when heated and contract at different rates when cooled. The parrifin is used to quench rather than lubricate. I never saw this in a text book, but it's what my instructor told us.
I took my machinist course from an old Navy ships fitter and he said the same thing. (parrifin quenches) But, he did say the wax DOES help a bit as a lubricant. He indicated the wax "soaked" into the threads as it was quenching and made the part turn out easier.
Per chance it could be used putting the studs in so that they wouldn't freeze up, he wondered, curiously.
The Jalopy Journal
