Picture is worth a thousand words. If your looking for a platform to build id take it as is. Are the brakes upgraded to hydraulic? If not i would not invest in the current ones. Seems like the wiring is missing something small like a ground or a lose wire
No point in spending an extra two grand, if you plan on a build. Had a laugh at the list of things to do. No coolant? Ha, just add water. As FL said, we need pics for this type of question.
I don't like to price things, but that car in CT for 4k would sell on C/L quickly 1500-2K for repairs is not robbery if they fix it correctly. However, even with new brake work, you might not like the stopping until the shoes seat into the drums, to get 100% contact. When you do contract the work, ask them to put the aftermarket fuel strainer into the shut-off valve in the bottom of the tank. It is a fine mesh screen that is like half of a cigarette in size, and it gets pressed into the fuel valve easily...but the valve needs to be removed to do this. that $6 part is the best thing invented for a flaky tank. I keep a few in stock for that reason. If you don't have that screen, the tiny flakes will pile up in the valve, or the line going to the glass bowl. The car will die at any trip you make.
If you're going to keep it stock, pay the 4 grand ( if it's as good as it sounds AND has a title if you need one) and fix it yourself. Buy the "Les Anderson" books and go for it- they're pretty simple to work on, and I'll bet there's some old bucks in your town that would be tickled pink to help out. Or if you don't want to take on the work, consider the offer of having it done (if it's a reputable shop). Around here a complete, solid Tudor body by itself is worth 2-3 grand. (A solid runner for 6 is a steal.) You can do it; we can help! ( I've heard that somewhere before). Good luck.
I paid the same amount for my 29 Tudor as a roller w a few boxes of random parts. Not running and in need of a full build. My jaw hit the floor when I read your post. Look forward to seeing pics of you decide to purchase the car, welcome to the H.A.M.B
Price is right if it is a good as you say. You could fix everything yourself for half what they want, including tires.
I would have to have the matching title and engine (which you do). I would make a deal with them that you will buy the car for a set price after everything is fixed and drivable. Then you will know that the engine, tranny and drive train are all good. No coolant would be suspicious to me (cracked block). Not a bad price if YOU like it.
Can't wait to follow your thread as you buy it, drive it, build it and enjoy it ! Sounds like a great buy if it's everything you say it is. Good luck !m
I'm not a salesman for Les Anderson's books, BUT they are much more useful than u-tube videos! Simple explanations and lots of pictures for people like me- Tell me how= problems; Show me how=success. I bought a basket case '31 roadster a few years ago and rebuilt the whole car in 8 1/2 months. I had machine work done, and a friend who is a Model A Guru help, but did 90% of the work myself . You'll be amazed at the ingenuity and simplicity of these cars. BTW- I'm a retired Union carpenter, not a mechanic.
If your plan is a hot rod buy it as is,why pay the man to do things you need to learn how to do even if you want to play with it in it's original form. HRP
Just buy the little baby.... Easy to work on. Parts are easy. Do it all yourself. Forget the clowns at the lot... You can do it - ya got plenty support on the HAMB. My first car was a 31 tudor. Wish I still had it. Ya got pics of it...............?
4k is a steal on a complete, titled, clean tudor IMO. If you're planning on moving over to the fordbarn, the extra $1500 isn't a bad deal and you'll be able to putter around through the end of the season. If you're planning to build a hot rod to build up this Winter, just buy it for the 4k and go from there. I'd jump on it before someone else does from the sound of it either way. What's the plan?
you mess around much longer and I'm going to buy it! really, it sounds like a good deal. If you are going to try to drive it as is, find out why it does not hold coolant, radiator leak, hoses or cracked block.
Its a stock A? I don't think high and low beams either. Define running and driving safe? As in safe with mechanical brakes or safe with modern brakes? Stock motor that wont get up to speed in 2 or 3 blocks safe? it sounds like a good price as is for a builder but with all that is wrong with it I would be suspect at repairs for less then 2K. Just my thoughts here, not bashing the used car dealer.
Ask the dealer if you can fill it with coolant. His answer might tell you something. It seems like a cheap and easy thing, there must be more to the story. Cheaper yet would be plain water or maybe water with antirust/water pump lubricant. Charlie Stephens
Actually they had high and low beams. They had one headlight bulb with two filaments. Turning the lever in the center of the steering wheel switched from high to low beams. As far as getting up to speed with a stock motor I don't have any problem with mine. A little speed equipment would make it even better. Charlie Stephens
Hmmn I thought that the dual beam was a later option thanks for the info. I actually have nothing against a banger powered car, I would not want to drive one here unless it was stripped down and hotted up, but maybe that is because a 30 mile zone is 65 here in the metro and most of the people who ever wanted to know how to drive steal a Honda and try. Anyway those are my real thoughts on it and I admit that I am living in a little microcosm of Americana. Again thanks for the clarification on the headlights.
Damn Tony! You bought a fine car! Congradulations! If you decide you don't like it, sell it to me! BTW, next week I'll have some sweet 16 inch wheels and tires you might like, and I'll take yours in trade!
You bought THAT for $4000 ??? Daaaamn, you did good !! I'm a hot rodder, but I think I would drive that baby as is for a long time. She survived this long so she deserves a little respect. I would have bought that in an instant. Don No........second thought, I would start modifying it !
4K??!!!??? My old Irish boss, Dick Doherty used to say : "It's better to be lucky than smart." You were lucky it lasted long enough for you to buy it! I see you've already changed your avatar!
A bad head gasket will cause the coolant to blow out the radiator or low compression on adjacent cylinders. A crack in the block by the valve seats will also allow the coolant to escape out the top of the radiator. With a flathead, it is highly unlikely that you will get coolant into the oil. No oil up in the head. I would not worry about changing the fluids if you are thinking about the transmission and rear end. Drive it some and take a look at the oil. If it looks good, run it. If you change it, see so that you replace with the correct oil or lube. Neal
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