picking up a early 1930's chevy sedan body tomorrow.. have a couple choices for frames. a stock 31 chevy frame, or a modified 35 frame.. both same price. the 35 keeps me from having to do all the work to the 31. but is the width and length's similar? could i easily bolt the body onto the 35 frame. sorry for the post. the 31 frame i have access to is similar measurements to what F&J posted on another thread Front tip of forged bracket at front of frame to front axle C/L is 18.25 From same tip of frame to rear axle C/l is 126-5/8 with no weight, so it will get a bit longer with a body, plus most all oldies never seemed to have the rear axle centered in the well. Width of front tips; one rail looks tweaked a bit so I added what I thought was correct: There are 2 rivets on each front frame tip to hold that bracket. The measure on the front rivets C/L is 23-1/2 Rear width:If you still have the rear forged brackets with the center bumper mount holes; the width to centers of the holes is 42-1/2 If you don't have the brackets but can see the last rivet holes that held them on; the width there to centers is 42-3/8 If you can see welded up holes about halfway from front to back on the tops of the rails; the middle body mount holes between centers are 33" The next pair back from center of car is 35-5/8
Welcome from New Hartford Ct...You can find the frame measurements on the two links below... 31 Chevy 35 Chevy
i have pictures of the body but dont wanna jinx myself. So ill post them when the body is safely home. im excited to be starting the build. i have a 350/t350 combo and 12 bolt rear already. some heli gunner seat pans from some military surplus i deal with at work, and have quite a bit of tools or access to. Im setting a starting goal of $3000 for a running and driving rod. i also noticed quite a few users from ct. anyone know what swap meets to make sure i have time for?
All traditional parts, I imagine? ( that's a joke). Non traditional approach ( not using flatheads and the Tardel version of the Bible) doesn't rock my canoe, but you may receive incoming rounds from some of the more "stoic" members. Welcome aboard. Fasten your seatbelt. Fitchburg ( mass.) Airport Swap in April is a must. Something for everyone ( and lots of old rusty junk that I love).
Local swap meet season ended last Sunday, CSRA in Bristol. Were are you in Connecticut? Quite a few HAMB guys on the West side of the state. Bob
Use this list to find specs on both the '30 and '35 Chevy frames. Standard series both indicate a 107 inch wheel base. If cheap enough drag home both frames and make your choice later. You can always sell the unused frame.... '35 Master frame is 113 inch wheelbase. Choose wisely.... Jeff http://classiccardatabase.com/prewar-models/car-models-C.php#Chevrolet
I'm in Shelton, CT. Safely got the body home.. Since its in pieces, I might just take my measurements down with me and try to place the cowl on the 35 frame.. I can always adjust lengths at the rear..
found a tag on the firewall, nothing else available to tell me what year. and this is the only tag Ive seen like it. others don't look the same. tag says Fisher Body Corp Detroit Mich. Correspondence pertaining to the body must bear these numbers Job # 8170 Body # 014063 nothing i find breaks this tag down to my understanding
Welcome from Woburn, MA! IDK much anything on early Chevy's other than the frames work nice on early Ford bodies due to the swept rear. That body looks NICE, so you're starting off strong. I'd suggest posting about the project in the main forum from here out. This section doesn't get as much attention.
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