Folks Of Interest Getting frustrated !

Got a 1951 merc. It's kicking my ****, won't get spark from distributor! Here's what we already checked, replaced coil, replaced points and condenser, replaced rotary and distributor cap, checked wiring under distributor plate, and still no spark. Any ideas out there?

 

are you getting power to the coil? point gap to spec?

 

Getting power to coil but not to points

 

Yes points set to spec.

 

Wires on coil reversed?

 

They were but straighten out now. If condenser is fried would it not spark at points?

 

Wire broken inside the insulation?

 

No not broken

 

No spark with a bad condensor.

 

Primary wire (from coil to dist.) should be disconnected, now check to see if power is constant thru coil.
If not, there is a break in the winding inside coil.
In case the primary wire is short circuited to distributer ground, the way to check is from the coil post, primary wire disconnected.

Condenser check:

1. Load condenser
2. Place condenser on a table, counter, toolbox, etc.
3. Watch for curious (nosey) individual to pick up. Listen for retort.

 

Have you replaced condenser since changing reversed coil?
If not, its most likely condenser.

 

Yes checked and changed coil twice new condenser since wire was changed. Couldn't get anyone to pick up loaded condenser!! Ordering 2nd one.

 

If you look at it as a simple set up. Draw it up on paper.

Check the primary side.
And follow power thru it.

If you turn the engine so it keeps the points open. And make sure you got batterie current all the way thru the coil and down to the point. Check Batteri, ignition, coil in (terminal 15), coil u (terminal 1), and the point on plus side of the point.
Then check the other side for ground connection. If you don't have that, there is you problem. If you do, keep at it, lad.

Turn the engine, so the points close and check that the points is now free of power.
If this checks out, put a spark plug cable with a trusted plug in the center of the coil (Terminal 4). And flick the points open. Then the plug should have spark.
If it don't coil is dead.
If it does the issues is in the secondary ignition system.

This is basic diagnostics, but there is an exception, systems with a ballaster. That should have batteries current to the ballaster and about half on the other side. But that shouldn't drop much from there and true to the point.

 

Thanks soooo much everyone we've byp***ed entire car systems wiring by hot wiring direct to coil still no distributor spark going to get a new condenser tomorrow maybe we shorted out !! Will keep you updated . Again many thanks for everyone who took the time to reply. Hopeful

 

Don't know if this will help but I had a problem where the spark was intermittent. Pulled my hair out the car would run but die and would start up again. Long story short it was the rotor not making very good contact with the cap. Pair of needle nose pliers and bent the coil tab up on the rotor. Never a problem again.
Another car I had ran terrible because of a bad ground. The ground to the engine had corroded to the point it would run like garbage.

 

You might also want to log on to the Ford Barn and ask Jim Linder aka (BUBBAS IGNITION)
You can also try here --(GMC BUBBA) but probably get a quicker answer on Ford Barn.
This sounds right up his alley.

 

Check to see if you have voltage to the points with a test light or volt meter, if yo do have voltage but see no spark when breaking the points it could be a bad ground, either the wire from the breaker plate to the distributor body or if the dizzy itself is not clamped tightly( for timing adjustment etc.) sometimes they don't ground well...also if you get God spark out of the coil wire but none out of the plug wires I once had a rotor that had no continuity from the springy stainless steel tab to the br*** contact on the end....

 

Give the points a wipe if you haven't done , l have seen brand new points with a film of oil on them, you won't get spark