I'm looking for a thermostat housing that points straight up for my 392 with a stock water crossover, I know they sell aluminum but I'm looking for either cast or steel, a part number that possibly crosses over from other mopars would work. The bole hole dimensions that I measure is 3.238 center to center and thermostat relief slot is 2.500. I do have a industrial but it is slightly curved up.
Thanks Dog Patch that was where I was heading before I found a mopar housing in my stash but I'm on the hook, the one that I would like to use is 1 1/2" and a stock 92 is 1 3/4" i would like to ask all out there what size neck on housing do you run and not being a fluid and engineer type guy what should I exspect. I know this is a somewhat open ended question. FYI the mopar part number is 3698565 which has several cross references
O'Reilly's (Checkers, Kragens) always had steel necks in stock. I got one for a 350 Chev with a different angle in 1983, (in steel, there were different angled ones for A/C equipped cars) Try them, (also NAPA) There's a line of steel necks for industrial, farm, etc..
The thermostat gasket Fel-Pro 35063 that engine calls for fits a ton of vehicles so the options may be a lot larger than you think. The gasket has elongated bolt holes but there should be a lot of engines out there with a housing that might be a real close fit.
I have read a lot of your post concerning the early hemi and was curious have you built a valley pan and incorporated a stock type oil fill tube and breather. I'm asking because I'm going to build a steel pan and was looking for ideas that have been done, ie tube choice and breather choice, I guess I could always post another thread.
There have been a mul***ude of variations made over the years, some by very talented hot-rodders, but my position is that the stock pan does a good job so we work with the existing oil fill and draft tube hole. I don't have photos of the pieces but generally we just shorten the fill tube so it is a bit more appealing and use a smaller cap. The road draft tube is a good spot to mount a pcv valve; I cut it off just past the corner and fit a rubber in the end that holds the valve. This is about as close as you can get to the base of the carb (if you are using a 4bbl). The stock pan does have an internal baffle so the pcv is not prone to ****ing up oil mist as it will with just a simple flat plate. There has been a lot of discussion over the years regarding the pros/cons of a simple cast/billet cover with the fill tube and pcv at either end and the 'short circuit' of air movement between the two. In later engines you will often find the pcv on one valve cover and the breather cap on the opposite side. This causes the internal air to flow through the crankcase before exiting. On a older/tired engine this is helpful. On a fresh engine I am of the opinion that both in the stock valley cover is workable. I am past the point of reinventing the wheel...I am also past the need for chrome/aluminum eye candy so I use what I have. .