I have never rebuilt one, but I have done carbs on motorcycles. Been reading a lot about doing it, but would like to here any tricks. I believe it is a 600 cfm. I am also missing some linkage, and looking for a good spot to buy it. I got a complete kit.
There are sealing "beads " on the gasket sufaces of the metering block/s , be careful not to damage them.. be extra careful to get all the small p***ages clean , if it doesn't already have a PV blowout protector , put one in .. use a little vaeline on o-rings so as not to damage them.. dave
I should also add this is going on a 1970 dodge 318 mild cam, headers, and a set of J heads. The truck will be around 2500#. It has a 5 spd.
Invest in a book on Holley carbs you will need it now and later. It looks like the link that Holley calls the "secondary connecting rod" is missing. My book that I bought from Speedway is from S-A Designs and is about as good as it gets with exploded parts views and how to sections. You can also download a lot of info including videos from Holley's website.
Use a "Genuine" Holley carb kit, not some other brand. My first Holley rebuild ended up stripping the threads in one of the float bowls. I used a brand name kit, (Borg Warner), but it wasn't a Holley. At the time, (1979), this was a common problem, when using non-Holley kits.
Here's the carb kit I got. A friend of mine has the book as he says they are great carbs. It looks like there were holes on the top that were filled with jb weld, is this a problem.
Did you ever witness this carb on a running vehicle? Or is this a swap meet find? Holleys get screwed around with more than any other carb, be sure what you have actually belongs together. My rebuild success rate on mystery carbs is about 50%, I'm leary if I dont know the history.
When you go to put the float bowls on when wrapping up the rebuild coat tge gaskets with chapstick. Sounds weird but will keep the gaskets from sticking and pulling apart when you go to pull them off to make jet changes when tuning.
Here is where I got so far. Everything looks to be there. It has 64 jets in it, and seems like it would have run without a rebuild. I had to stop for lack of tools, I need a bit. In the fourth picture, it looks like there in flashing left over from the mold in one of the small outside runners. Do I remove it or leave it alone?
The number 64 main jets are common out of the box jets for a Holley 4160. I have been using a screw driver to remove them for ages but do yourself a favor and get a jet tool. You can order it when you order your power valve protector. You do need a power valve protector and you will need it before you ***emble your carb. It goes in the throttle plate. Your kit probably came with a 6.5 power valve that is the most common, if your idle vacuum is around 14 inches you will be Ok with that one, if it is higher or lower you will probably want to replace the power valve with one that is close to half the number of vac at idle. If your kit didn't come with reusable gaskets for the gloat bowls (they will be blue as a rule) then get yourself a chap stick and liberally coat the gaskets with it. it will make jet, metering plate and power valve changes easier in the future. You can adjust the tip in of the secondaries with a spring change in the dash pot. They sell a kit for that. I like to run on two barrels when I am cruising for a car that gets driven a lot on a pure hot rod I like them to hit a little sooner than that. I can't see what has been plugged with JB weld so fire me off a pic. I may have that linkage pieces that you need or you can probably buy them from summit racing.
I'm not seeing an accelerator pump shooter in there. ? If you need one, I'd probably go with a 31 on that carb for your combo as a solid place to start. The link you are missing on the driver's side of the carb prevents the secondaries from opening unless the primaries are at WOT. Without it, the secondaries can open a bit more haphazardly and cause bogs in performance. The secondary vacuum pot springs that come factory in those tend to be a little too light. Stepping back 1 spring stiffer in the kit will usually improve acceleration. Be sure that diaphragm is 100%, not wrinkled up at all, and the check ball is in there. It should move the rod up & down freely with minimal vacuum applied.
While were on the subject of carbs does anyone know the name of that dye they use to give it the golden tint when new? I saw someone use it years ago and you would dip the aluminum parts in it and it would dye the aluminum that goldish color. Im not talking about anodizing. This was a different process. I think it was aviation related.
I don't recall what it is called but you can get it from eastwood. It wasn't too pricey from them last I checked.
The original gold/green carb color was zinc-dichromate ... the epa has pretty much put the kabosh on that. The stuff eastwood sells is paint , to me it looks phoney plus it's paint !! The link you're missing stops the sec. from opening early [important] & makes sure that they close [very important]. The bit you need for the sec. metering plate is called a clutch drive , should be available at a good hardware or RV supply store .. dave
The paint must be a new thing. The last stuff that I used was a chemical dip. I'll bet I can buy zinc dichromate now that I know what it is called. LOL
Make sure you don't overtighten the screws that hold the float bowls on; overtightening will warp the bowls/metering plates and leaks will ensue.... There's a torque spec for this, 12-14 inch-pounds IIRC, but check this. If they get warped, you have to replace them.
Caswell plating has kits for plating , you'd have some big $$ wrapped up to do the process plus you may be accountable to epa inspections , the latter I don't know for sure but in light of their views on hazardous chemicals , I'd be cautious .... dave
Porkn******, if you look at the third picture I posted, it looks like jb weld by the fuel inlet, right above where you would adjust the floats. My kit does have 6.5 power valve. Why do you call it a 4160? I will shoot you a picture later today if I get to the shop. I am not sure what the shooter looks like but I will double check. I know that the pump looked like it was working properly before I took it apart. Can I get a kit with all of the parts that you guys say I need or is it something I have to get separately? I redid a 69 GTO with a ram air 4 hood, and the guy sent the original carb out to be made original looking. I don't remember where he sent it but it looked incredible when he got it back. It had the proper coloring on it.
4160 is the model number of that particular carb, single feed, vac secondary, square bore, commonly 600 CFM. Yours does not have externally adjustable floats that is what the JB weld lookin' places are, that can be cured with the proper float bowls. If it were me I would find a pair of center hung float bowls like on the 4150 dual feed carbs if I was going to change them out. They are slightly bigger bowls and the center hung floats handle cornering better then the side hung floats, not that you will ever really notice it.
Re: JB Weld. A lot of those carbs get a leak at the welch plug by the fuel inlet. People would repair with JB weld. Something is wonky with the secondaries, look at the rear travel stop plate, the arm has been bent. They do not bend easily, check to see if something has been forced on it - it is probable that somebody has bent it on purpose thinking they are getting the carb to open quicker or bigger. those are entry level carbs and entry level people 'improve' them. How about a pic of the bowl interiors? That particular carb had a major problem and holley had to replace many of them due to the zinc coating failing and coming loose. I'm sure I have a secondary pull-off arm if you can't find one near you, shoot me a PM.
I haven't done anything else yet, but still looking for parts. The inside of the bowls look normal to me.
Bowl coatings look ok. The pics is what you don't want to see. As far as a book, theres bunches of them and none I'd reccommend. Try locating a International Harvester manual, some of thier trucks came with the 4160 and the info in them is excellant.
Yes, from the outside they look normal. The gas reacted with the coatings, this is the worst one of several I have. All are the 4160 with non-adjustable floats. In reality the Holley are simple to rebuild, there isn't any 'secret' p***ages or 'tricks' to do them. The biggest thing I'd caution you on is that little 'E' clip holding the float on - that little ****er will take off across the room and the local hardware won't have a clip that small.
yellow chromate is what I been using for years to color my Holley 94 restorations. This is a process that involves at least 7 stages of cleaning and dipping. The missing secondary link can be made from coat hanger wire (1/8). Make sure you do not gouge the gasket surfaces (I can see some on the throttle body) as they will create a vacuum leak. 2x^ install a power valve blow out preventer (look it up)
I bought a few books to help me through this project. I got David Vizard How to super tune and modify Holley Carburetors, and Holley carburetors hand book 4150 4160. I have a friend looking through his IH books to see if he has one. I also ordered up a pv blow out protector. Now I wait.
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