Hot Rods Minimum radiator core size for sbc?

LOL my current project is being built around an axle a motor mount and a pair of wheels.

I actually have two radiators that will fit my grill shell when it is cut down, but they both need some work and I may actually cut my stock radiator down and have it recored if I am flush when the time comes. It really depends on two thing for me budget and sales. if my budget will handle it the cut down rad will be more appropriate and if it doesn't sell the radiator will still be here waiting for my love.

 

I think a lot of guys build these things as they find the parts as well as when budget allows. Life’s expensive, as is hot rodding. If you're thinking that I'm doing this as a 'cheap stopgap', that's certainly not my intention. I want something that functions properly, just without breaking the bank doing so. I’m just looking to hear from guys that have done the same thing as I'm trying to accomplish.

 

Obvious from your question that you are trying to make it right. I think that all of us like to live economically or as economically as possible.

My big question when buying parts is does the missus need new shoes, she doesn't care but I do.

 

My wife's shoe collection is worth more than my Model A, and my Falcon, and her VW, and my vintage BMW motorcycle, combined.

 

Read my whole quote, You are trying to make right on something that you messed up on, that is admirable. But, even with a budget folks can plan ahead. As stated before, if a good radiator is beyond a persons means they probably should not be building a hotrod. But, show me around your garage and I bet we could find a few hundred dollars to spend on a radiator. Kinda a hot rod version of those HGTV shows!

 

Something I messed up on?…that's strike two for you! Anyway, enjoy your HGTV, I'm here to build a hot rod & looking for help, not assumptions based on ignorance. Trying to plan every step with this project . Have a nice day sir.

 

Sorry the truth hurts but we/I are trying to help other folks to stay outta the pickle you are I, like beaner build on budgets, real tight budgets. But certain things you either gotta step up or get REAL creative. I would go find a good radiator shop to start and ask them. I have measurements here for dozens of apps but yours is wayy smaller than even my warehouse stocks. To your original Q, when you find something to fit, it schould cool your smallblock fine, they are pretty forgiving

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I just looked it up on Napa and they are quoting $192-224?

Just looked at Oriellys, $135. Nice!

 

NAPA still uses 3 price books, off the street, those that we know, and professional. When you walk in (hopefully you have done it more then once) you ask for the "friendly auto" price.

 

I'm fully aware of the importance of cooling and I'm not trying to cheap out or 'get out of a pickle' as some would say. I know what I'm doing isn't all that exotic, as I'm sure it's been done many times over the years. Just trying to gather a pot of ideas and come up with a game plan that best suits my needs.

Sorry for getting wound up, but I took offence (as I'm sure most would) to someone coming on here and making it sound like I messed up and I'm now looking for a solution. This might not have been your intent, but that's how it came across. Anyhow, thanks for the information tman, appreciated.

 

There is no single correct answer to the "what's the min size rad I can use" question as there are too many variables.

Example: In street trim, I cool a 550 hp (750 in ful race trim) blown SBC with a 12 x 17 core (that's just the core size, not overall) in a street/strip altered. It has never let me down in the GA heat. But, I use a dual pass rad and a very good water pump. A cheap single pass and a weak pump just wouldn't cut it in my application.

If you're on a budget there are guidelines that will help you maximize the dollar/performance factor. First is to max out the core size. Depth wont add that much to the cooling effect of the rad, but if you can afford it, get it as thick as you can. Next, get a good water pump that will move the water as fast as possible at all times. This will help the turbulence in the rad tubes which helps increase heat transfer. Run the pump at a 1:1 ratio at least. I've had good luck turning the pump faster than the crank, about 1:3. These are what's worked for me over the past 20 or so years of building forced induction cars.

Lastly, make sure your engine is tuned correctly. Mixture and timing can have a substantial affect on the amount of heat the engine can make.