Hot Rods Flathead oil smoke right exhaust / help

Hello
I've been battling a oil smoke blow by on the passenger side exhaust for a good 8 months. It is getting me down.
here are my motor specs.
Motor rebuilt totally in 2011 no problems until end of 2014.
49 - 53 Ford with 3 3/8" bore and Merc crank
327 chevy distributor
3 carb intake running only 1 .. 48 Stromberg carb in center
Plugs are new Champ D 16
Vacum is steady at 20...checked from the intake
We listed for any air leaks.... with a rubber hose screwed into a plug hole and compressed air the other hose was in the oil inlet where we listened (No air bypass sound)

Compression check
front
L R
100 70
100 110
80 100
110 120
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miles since rebuilt in 2011
3,000
Added 1 quart Marvelous Mystery oil to 4 quarts Valv. VR 150 20 w 50
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Heavy blue smoke occurs every time I gun the motor in neutral, accelerate from a stop sign or enter the highway. The smoke will go away after the initial acceleration.
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Any ideas of what I can do to totally keep my motor from smoking out of the right side exhaust?
left side (driver's seems to be fine).

Thank you,
Guy

 

You can't tell from reading the plugs which cylinder(s) is burning the oil? The 30+% compression drop on number 1 is significant. I'd use a set of Leakdown Gauges and try to get a better idea than just trying to listen for air leaking for starters. If its showing that much of a loss on a compression check its going somewhere. It should show up on the leak down as well.

 

X2!

 

When I put a vaccum gauge on the intake the reading was an excellent 20+ steady.
On the Barn they suggested I soak #1 in MMO overnight and check in morning...they think it is a valve guide situation.

 

Valve guide won't cause compression loss but it could cause smoke ( it would be on intake valve)

 

Russco
Is the 70 compression the #1 valve on passenger side an intake valve?

 

The valves, in order are exhaust.intake.int.exh.exh.int.int.exh. But that has no bearing on your situation, I would leak it down and I believe you have a ring or cylnder wall issue, if it leaks down a substantial amount shoot some 30 weight motor oil in that cylnder, crank it over a couple of revolutions and see if the leakage goes down...

 

Could I possibly draw the line at only replacing the front 2 valve guides or should I do them all...since I have the top end apart?

 

Do the leak test first like everyone is suggesting and go from those results. You might have a broken ring and be scouring the cylinder wall.

 

Changing the guides out is actually not that of a bad job you already have to have the intake and head off anyway just do all of them, there is no sense in doing just a couple. However back to the original post: The 2 most likely scenarios would be that oil (and compression) are leaking by the piston(s) on the affected cylinders which would be why compression is lower in the #1 cylinder (and #7 too) this could be caused by several things. Broken /stuck rings, galled or scored piston or cylinder wall, damaged piston, ETC.... and Scenario #2: an intake valve guide/seal is allowing oil to leak past the seal/guide and to enter the cylinder while under a vacuum condition when the intake valve is open and the cylinder is filling with fuel and air.. Either way the oil is being burned and causing the smoke. The spark plug from that cylinder should show signs of oil burning /fouling more so than other cleaner burning cylinders. As stated above a leak down test with gauges should give a pretty good idea of what's going on in each cylinder. A bad Guide/Seal will not show up on a leak-down as it has nothing to do with compression unless its somehow causing the intake valve to not seal on the seat.

BTW I'm not very computer literate, I'm terrible at explaining stuff like this when I have to type it out. I hope this is making sense to you.

 

Thank you Russco

Note:
I've been running the VR-150 oil 20W 50 my friend in the Early V8 Club says a newly rebuilt flathead...under (10,000 mi) should be using 30 weight non detergent oil. The synthetic oil causes no wear on the engine therefore they do not seal properly. He suggests driving with the 30 wt. for around 2000 more miles and see if everything begins working properly.

 

The oil should be 10w30. Non detergent oil what planet is your friend from???
This is 2015 not 1915. No need for any other oil if the engine was built with the correct clearances.
Getting back to your question do a leak down test as the others have suggested and report back