I recently purchased a 1946 Ford Super Deluxe 2-door sedan. Great little (?) car but not running. Couldn't get fuel to the fuel pump. Found an in-line electric installed but fried. chased the wiring down and found that it was disconnected. Looks like it had been just hardwired in off the ignition switch with no toggle switch. I re-plumbed the fuel line with a new (better) in-line electric fuel pump located close to the tank where the old one was located mid-car. Today, I got to looking for a possible toggle for the old pump and I found a toggle on the bottom of the dash on the left side of the steering wheel. It had to be original as it is really old and really long throw switch. Then I noticed that the dash was stamped out for installation of two switches in that location. Does anybody out there with fat fender experience know what these two switch locations are for? Maybe for back up lights or running lights? This is my first fat fender so I am learning as I go. Thanks for any information you might have.
It has the original mechanical pump ( I have a new one if it isn't working). But I have been told that for whatever reason, it is advisable to have an electrical in-line pump for priming purposes. The old mechanical pumps work fine if they have been primed.
You quoted me before I tried to edit Seems I remember making a home made diaphram for a flathead v8 pump in a 53 ford truck I had years ago...... also I didnt think an electric pump in the line would work in combination with a mechanical one on the engine but I have been wrong plenty before so.........
Hmmm, 46 Ford Tudor. I've seen one around here somewhere. We need pictures and details! I just got my wiring sorted out, 12 volt, batt in trunk, fused circiut boards. I had a Dennis Carpenter voltage reducer on my gauges and kept blowing 30 amp fuses. Basically had to rewire everything in order to find the culprit and that's after having the dash out for painting and rewiring all the stuff I could while out, then with the short I spent a lot of time on my back on the floor board rewiring again. Also the first time I tested the new wiring with a battery connected I had the ign switch wiring wrong and turned the key only to have the car back up right into the garage door bent the trunk hinge and trunk corner, and broke the new trunk handle . 1 step forward 2 steps back. Now onto the interior. Good luck w/ yours.
As much as I hate to admit it, I am a retired electrical engineer. Unfortunately, I worked with a little higher voltage than the six and twelve volt systems we discuss here. The complications involved with the rewiring are magnified by the original positive grounded system. I am sure that you took this under consideration for your gauges? I will probably eventually get around to going with a negative grounded 12 volt system. Today, I just want to get the old girl running. I have attached a photo of the existing switch and the location of the switch with accommodation for another. Note that these are just along side the hood release rod.
Shoot, I remember a toggle switch there on my '46 Super Deluxe! Can't recall what it went to, the interior lamps worked off the door jamb ****ons. Seems like it had to do with dash lights... Traded that nice long door coupe straight across for a '35 flatback Tudor. (1963) I now have a '47 Fordor, (Super Deluxe) that has all the original wiring...I'll go out in the morning and see if I can figure it out. (I was a wiring spe******t in the '50s thru '80s, maybe I can find this out)
The switch in the picture is not the right switch. The original has a circular body with two tabs for attaching and the switch part looks like a black valve stem cap. To operate, you would twist the valve stem cap looking part sticking down through the hole.
Jim's right about the dash light dimmer switch, but there are 2 spots for the dimmer rheostat, my 46 has just one spot. We need pictures of the car, all sides, interior and details. Inquiring minds need to see your project! When going to 12 volt you'll wnat to buy "runtz" voltage reducers one for each gauge, oil, gas, temp and none for amp but I think you need to run the wire backwards through the amp. I did'nt use the amp gauge but added another temp gauge in the original dash pod so I have one temp gauge for each side of the block, then added a aftermarket volt gauge. I also added aftermarket mechanical temp gauges one per side.
I will try to post some photos this afternoon after it warms up a few degrees. Hate to open the garage door to let in the really cold air. The car also has a backup lamp and two similar lamps on the front. All are white lenses so don't know if they came with the car.
Hallelujah!! Fire in the hole. I completed the in-line fuel pump installation, using a momentary toggle and Bosch relay. After a little priming, the old beast started right up and purrs like a kitten. Guess I will have to leave the old six in there since it runs so good.
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