I've used a 48 axle on a couple different cars with a longer mainleaf they work fine ... Turning radius is less... So what ? I wouldn't dog leg the wish bone ...that looks aweful... I don't personally like the look of the spring infront of the axle... However many old hotrods did use this setup I also don't like the grill infront of the CL of the axle as it makes the car look very nose heavy... That look reminds me of when a dogs front legs go slower than his rear and about to wipeout ... Very few cars have pulled of this look successfully ... the kougaz roadster is the only one I can think of offhand
OK Thank you I would like to make the same rear frame whith a rear 39 axle because I don't want to cut the floor of my 29 coupe for the front I use a cl***ic 4" dropped axle
Hey V8, I run '42 front and rear axles in my model A. Both retain the spring in front and spring behind setup and work well. As for being too wide, well I didn't have to cut my inner fenders for tire clearance and they don't stick out that far. Cliff Ramsdell
bobo1; If you really want to simplify things you really don't need to extend the rear Frame Rails. A simple spring perch off the crossmember will do the job. Less work, same results. I always advise to do a full scale drawing on the shop floor before cutting pieces. Also you need to be aware of the radieus rods to bottom of frame contact. Look at Cliff's ch***is and you'll notice his Kick is just in front of the Bones. By the way Cliff, nice job. Cliff, how did you address the 2" front spring width? The Wizzard
Weather you do or don't do a Kick is relevant to what you want for finished ride height. For me, I wanted the bottom of my Body in line with the Center of rear Axle. My rear tires are 29" tall and my Body is channeled 6". That makes my ground clearance is 14-1/2". It's all about the look and how you want to achieve it. I did Not want to have a Kick in my frame so I would have a Flat floor from toe board all the way to back of the body. I achieved that. There's a Dozen ways to skin the Cat. The Wizzard
OK,, I try real hard "NOT" to give specific instructions on how "to" do things. Reason being specially on this sight you get a ton of Nay Sayers and "you can't do that" input. I always say think past the instructions and just because You (that person, not you specifically) can't do it doesn't mean I can't. Most guys to date don't understand How I did what I did. This type of work is where my signature came from clear back in High School. My cronies started calling me The Wizzard, I didn't make it up. I just think different than most I guess. Also, High School was the early 60's That said I'll try to give you some help. Again, think for yourself and make sure what your doing is going to work for you. Specifically the front frame part. The Stock Model A p***enger car and 1/2 Ton truck front crossmember is for a 1-3/4" wide spring. The 35 and latter Ford front spring is 2" wide. I stated I used an AA front crossmember. That's not a misprint, AA is the large or Ton and a Half truck. It has a 2" spring stock, is the same width as p***enger car and all 3 top rivet holes line up (well, very close any way). You do need to adjust it for the shorter (top to bottom) rail hight. The Rad mount holes are correct. So the AA crossmember mounts up in the top rivet holes. You do not add to the frame rails in the front horn section. You do need to make some kind of adjustment somewhere if you want the Stock wheel base. If you look close at the photo of my Pile of pieces you'll notice the Frame rails are not 1 piece. I spliced together a front section and back section of 2 different frames and added some length to accomadate the next generation front and rear Axles. I can't tell you how much but I believe it was around 10". Do Not Build to that number until you do your own math and verify that's what works for your needs. The Wizzard
Thank you The Wizzard for the lot of informations you give I do not want to put on my project a front 48 axle but a traditionnel front axle 4"dropped sorry Yes I see you use 2 frame to made your frame and it's a very good edea I'm very interresting by you rear made because I would like to have a flat floor to My project : and I would like to be going that :
bobo1; Many years back I did a 30 2d Sd. It got the 36 rear Axle complete with spring behind. I did not extend the Frame rails on that project. In fact I did not remove the body from the Frame. I removed the floor section under the rear seat cushion. I then built, let's call it an extended spring perch off the crossmember kind of like a T Roadster front spring mount. I then modified the crossmember hump in the floor pan as needed, reinstalled it and put the seat cushion back in place. That was a pretty simple project as I remember it now. I don't have any photos of that project. I do remember welding a plate to the underside of the stock spring socket to Box that specific aria. The Wizzard
Thank you v8 caddy it's the coupe of Hackman you can see it here : http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-hackman-model-a-with-burnouts.757179/
bobo1; Here is a couple photos of my A Sedan with a 4" dropped A axle and reversed eye spring. The rear spring had every other leaf removed. In other words half the load rate. The one photo is taken at Bonniville on the salt with 4 big fat guys in it. The stance is a long ways from being Kool. Being your frame is in pieces I would just extend the end of the rails enough to work with the 36 style Axle housing and then mount the stock crossmember. Once together you may find you need to do more to get the stance you want. The Wizzard
I did the kick for two reasons. One was to drop some height and the other was I brought the rear cross member back 7" which is how far the '35 to '48 rear axle spring is mounted from the stock, on top of the axle location of the 28 t0 34 stuff. This put the wheels in the stock wheel well location. It ended up too low in the rear and I went with a flattened '34 rear cross member, sorry no pics. If I did it again I would keep the stock Model A cross member and not kick the frame, just stretch it. As for the front spring, I used a stock late front spring and as you mentioned, what did I do about the width. Posies makes a spring, P/N 1025 that has reversed eyes and is the correct width to use with the axle and it's 1 3/4" wide. Me, I took my spring to work and we chucked it into the bridgeport and took some off each side and it slid right in place. You can see the shinny area in the front shot. The car sits good ( no chop or channel) and rides really nice, it will go down the highway about 65 with the 3.78's in the back. Cliff
For the rear , there are someone who put this crossmember with T spring I would like to know if is it a homemade crossmenber ?
Not average T p***enger car. Could be big T truck. Is that you project as in current condition? The Wizzard
There is something very strange about that ch***is. Without the up sweep on the outboard ends of the crossmember the Kick in the frame rails probably is not necessary. One counter acts the other. I'd personally stay all Model A parts. The Wizzard
This is build by Oldsboy with a A frame for his 1926 T sedan http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/oldsboy-_t-sedan-build.549465/
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